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PASSAGES BETWEEN ST. LUCIA & ST. VINCENT

The northbound passage between St. Vincent and St. Lucia canbe hard on the wind and hard on the body. The north end of St. Vincent isunbelievably gusty on occasion and more than a little bumpy. It is not unusualto have gusts of 30 to 40 knots. These will steady down about six miles offshore.It pays to be prepared. I often do this trip single-handed and am not over-fondof it, but find the easiest way to do it is as follows: Motor-sail close up thecoast under reefed main and engine and wait until the full force of the windhits before deciding what to do. If you are comfortable under main and engine,keep going that way until the wind steadies down. Otherwise, if you have roller furling, just unroll a little of the jib until itgets calmer. The main thing is not to arrive at the north end with too muchcanvas, where reducing sail can degenerate into hanging onto flailing dacron asthe boat bucks about and tries to throw you over. Once you get about five milesnorth of St. Vincent, wind and seas generally become much more constant and youcan adjust sail accordingly. The current will set you to the west, so head up ifpossible. It is going to be a long day, so plan to leave early from CumberlandBay or Wallilabou, as that will make it seem shorter.

If heading north from Blue Lagoon in reasonable weather, thepassage up the windward side of St. Vincent is shorter and you get the windwardpart over early, leaving a good sail to the Pitons. The trick is to tack about 4miles to the east of St. Vincent to stay well off any bad seas close to shore.If the wind is in the north, you may have to make more than one tack. There is awindward lee under Soufriere (back pressure). When you reach this, if you tackout a few miles, you will get better wind and a better angle for crossing thechannel.

The southbound trip is usually a lovely broad reach. If youcannot see St. Vincent from St. Lucia, a course of 208° magnetic shouldstart you in the right direction. Most people know how far they like to go inone day. I personally favor starting at the Pitons and stopping in St. Vincent.Nature lovers will favor Cumberland or Wallilabou and those who like waterfrontbars can clear customs in Wallilabou or Barrouallie and continue on to YoungIsland Cut. If you plan to go all the way to Bequia, make sure you allow plentyof time.

In reasonable conditions it makes sense to go windward of St.Vincent when sailing from Vieux Fort to Bequia.

St. Vincent and the Grenadines make up one country. The maincustoms stations are Wallilabou, Kingstown, Bequia and Union Island. You canalso find customs in Mustique and Canouan.

All yachts pay an entry charge of $5 EC per person per day upto a maximum of $35 EC per person, after which you don't pay any more till youleave the country and come back in again. You may cruise here as long as youwish. Yachts on charter that are based outside St. Vincent are also charged $4EC per foot per month (yearly fees are also available). Those clearing outsidenormal office hours (weekdays 0800-1200, 1300-1600) will pay an overtime fee.

No jet skis, aquascooters, or similar craft are allowedanywhere in St. Vincent and the Grenadines.

You are welcome to fish, but only for your own consumption.You can troll when sailing, or hand-line at anchor or from the shore, but not inprotected areas, where all fishing is forbidden. Protected areas include: thenortheast coast and Devil's Table in Bequia, Isle de Quatre, all Mustique, theeastern coast of Canouan, all of Mayreau and the Tobago Cays, the whole of Palm,PSV and the surrounding reefs. Spearfishing is strictly forbidden to allvisitors. Buying lobster out of season (the lobstering season is 1st October to31st April) is also illegal, as is buying a female lobster with eggs (easilyseen as red "caviar" under the tail), or any lobster less than 9"in length. Corals must not be damaged. Fines run at around $5000 EC.

Jan 1, New Year's Day

Jan 2, Recovery Day

Jan 22, Discovery Day

Easter Friday through Monday,

(March 25-28, 2005, April 14-17, 2006)

Whit Monday (May 16, 2005 & June 5, 2006)

Carnival, 2nd Monday and Tuesday in July

August bank holiday; 1st Monday in August

October 27, Independence Day

Dec 25, Christmas

Dec 26, Boxing Day

Most shops open 0800-1200 and 1300-1600. Saturday is half dayand most places are closed by noon. Banks normally open weekdays 0800-1200,1300-1500, and on Fridays 0800-1200, 1500-1700.

Card and coin phones may be found all over the island. Youcan buy cards for the phone in post offices and selected shops. For overseascalls dial 0 + country code + number. Dial 115 for an overseas operator. Whendialing from overseas, the area code is 784, followed by a 7 digit number.

There are inexpensive ($1.50-$6 EC) buses running to mostvillages. If you are going a long way, check on the time of the last returningbus. Taxis are plentiful. Sample taxi rates for up to four are:

$EC

Kingstown to Airport 25
Kingstown to Young Island 35
Airport to Young Island 25
Kingstown to Blue Lagoon 35
Short ride 20
By the hour 50

Rental cars or motorbikes are available (see our directory).You will need to buy a local license which costs $50 EC. Drive on the left.

Airport departure taxi is $35EC

St. Vincent is an island of towering mountains, craggy peaksand dramatic precipices. Everything is dressed in a tangle of dense green forest.St. Vincent's steep and wild terrain was among the last to be settled byEuropeans. At the time Columbus sailed through the islands, St. Vincent wasinhabited by amber Kalinargo who had migrated from South America and had a morepoetic name for the island: Hairoun, which means "home of the blessed."Those in residence just before colonization were a fierce tribe (called Caribsby Columbus) who had wrested the land from the previous more peace-lovingresidents. While the newly arrived Europeans exploited the other islands, aslave ship was wrecked off Bequia and the Caribs took the slaves as their own.However, these slaves were fierce and warlike and proved to be a problem. Tocontrol this, the Caribs decided to kill all the young male black children. Thiscaused a revolt among the slaves, who killed the Caribs they could, stole theirwomen and ran into the hills. They kept the names the Caribs had given them,followed some Carib customs and became known as the Black Caribs. Over the yearsthey took control of the land from the original Caribs and put up fierceresistance to British settlement. Finally, in the late 18th century, they weredefeated by a superior British force and shipped en masse to Honduras.

The northern end of the island is dominated by Soufriere, a3000-foot volcano. I had a friend who was anchored under the volcano in April1979 with an amateur geologist on board. Together they scaled the volcano andpeered into the depths. The geologist declared it safely dormant. That night,which happened to be both Friday the 13th and Good Friday, there was a rumblingfrom the very bowels of the earth, and the volcano erupted with a massive cloudthat landed dust hundreds of miles away. It created a murk in the area so thickthey couldn't see to the bow of the boat and had to leavecompletely blind, steering by compass to get away. The eruption, which lastedfor some days, was Soufriere's second since 1902. The other was in 1973. As yousail by, you can see some rivers of dark volcanic matter that flowed down fromthe summit. Despite the absence of any warning, everyone left in time and therewere no casualties. The enthusiastic should hike up Soufriere, as it isunquestionably one of the Windwards' best and most exciting hikes. Starting onthe Windward side there is a clear trail that starts in farmland and goesthrough rainforest, montane forest, and then into an area where only tiny plantscan survive. The top is often in cloud, and you need a little luck to see downinto the crater or get the views over the island. The wind often blows a gale atthe top and it is cool and damp, so take a rain jacket. You have to be carefulnot to get blown down into the era-ter, which is a sheer thousand-foot drop withno guardrail. Take lunch.with you and eat it near the top, as the longer youspend there, the more likely you are to get windows in the clouds and see intothe crater. The crater is an impressive cone with a huge smoking volcanic domein the middle. Call any taxi driver for details. The crater rim is at 3000 feet;the mountains to the north attain 3800 feet. The volcano can be approached fromthe leeward side, but it is a much longer hike (about four hours each way) and areliable guide is essential.

It seems that neither God nor man was completely sure theywanted tourism in St. Vincent, for it lacks tourist-type resorts, the acres ofwhite sand beach, and the convenient, easy anchorages of the Grenadines. Incompensation, this very beautiful island remains unspoiled and you can drive orhike amid exotic, almost theatrical, scenery. Its fierce, uncompromising form isthe perfect scenic complement to the appealing and gentle Grenadines farthersouth. Those doing a round trip from St. Lucia who only wish to stop one way arebetter off visiting St. Vincent on the way north, as this makes the windwardnorthbound trip shorter.

Try to see some of St. Vincent's interior, which is totallywild. Roads run up both of St. Vincent's coasts, but none goes all the way roundor crosses the middle. Climbing the volcano or a boat trip to the Falls ofBaleine are recommended. I also love Montreal Gardens in the Mesopotamia Valley.Perched upon the very threshold of the mountains, they are at the end of theroad. The gardens are beautifully maintained by owner Tim Vaughn and his team.Little paths, dense vegetation, a river, and broad views make the gardens a perfectplace to spend an hour or two away from it all.

Those who like things closer to town can tour the BotanicalGardens and Fort Charlotte. The Botanical Gardens are the oldest in the westernhemisphere, and it was here that Captain Bligh brought the breadfruit tree afterthe mutiny on the Bounty fiasco. A direct "sucker" descendant from hisoriginal tree is on display. You will find many youths to guide you through thegardens; one or two are good and entertaining, but negotiate fees in advance.

While there are places that are good for wandering off onyour own, a guide is almost essential for some hikes, including the volcano. Ifyou are hiking without a guide, it is best to go in some sort of a group, asthere are a few predatory individuals around, especially on the western side ofthe volcano which has become the smokebasket of the ganga generation.

Luckily there are some good guides available who will covereverything mentioned above. Clint and Millie Hazel who run Hazeco Tours comefrom old Vincentian families dating back to the 1700's, and they have anexceptional and intimate view of the island's history, politics and society.They know local people at every stop and are very knowledgeable about localplants and crops. Their tours include food, snacks and refreshment and arereasonably priced on a per head charge with a minimum of two people. They havedesigned many inventive tours to let you see the best of St. Vincent, evenincluding cycling tours. They are willing to arrange tours from Cumberland andWallilabou, but you will need to contact them in advance as their radio will notreach these little bays. Many people also contact them from Bequia and get meton the ferry. We also mention other guides under various anchorages.

Navigation along this section of the coast is straightforwardas the land is steep-to except for the clearly visible Bottle and Glass rocksnear Barrouallie. A quarter of a mile offshore clears all other dangers.

Chateaubelair lies at the southern foot of Soufriere, St.Vincent's volcano. The coast here is rugged and photogenic, with dramatic hilland mountain outlines, cliffs and beach. In settled weather it can be a dream.However, in times of northerly swells, Chateaubelair can be untenable, so greatcaution must be used during the winter months, when dangerous northerly swellsoften arrive without warning. A steep cliffy slope covered in palm trees liesalong the eastern half of the bay. This is the calmest and most scenic place to anchor. There is an ample anchoringshelf 20-40 feet deep. Don't anchor too close to shore as rocky patches extendin places. The bottom is sand but some of the boulders you see tumbling into thesea along the water's edge have made it onto the sand, so if you anchor on rope,snorkel on your anchor. There is also a good sandy anchoring shelf withexcellent holding in front of the Beach Front Restau-rant, though just to thenortheast of the restaurant is a deep hole,

A rock lies in the middle of the channel betweenChateaubelair Island and the mainland. A navigable passage, some 35 feet deep,runs just south of this rock (between it and the mainland). There are rocksaround, so only attempt this in good light. Be prepared to move for fishermen ifthey ask. You can dock your dinghy at the town dock (swells permitting).

Most people here are naturally friendly in the nicest way.Try to keep it that way; treat people with friendly respect, don't encourage too many locals to become boat vendors and do notgive to those who beg.

Fitzmore, Maxroy and Culvert may row by to offer local fruitsand vegetables or run errands like buying fresh bread or bringing ice. They areentertaining and will act as guides should you want to hike to some of the localwaterfalls, or anywhere else.

Esron Thompson's Beach Front Restaurant [$D] is a conspicuousbuilding on the beach. He and his wife Gail will cook you the most wonderfulfresh fish at very reasonable prices that are geared to the local market. Forpreference, eat upstairs under the shelter with a panoramic view of the bay. Butwatch out as you get towards the top of the stairs ~ the third one from the topis a little higher than the rest and likely to trip you up. Esron may well sendout Felix in his rubber dinghy to invite you to visit his restaurant and giveyou a ride in.

Chateaubelair lies in the heart of some of St. Vincent's besthiking. The volcano is a full day's hike. Trinity Falls are a four-hour roundtrip, but you can get a taxi most of the way. The Darveo Falls are a pleasant40-minute hike, with a second fall higher up. Take your bathing things; you canswim at Trinity Falls and take a good shower at the Darveo Falls. Ask also aboutall the ancient carved stones that have been found recently. Wherever you go itwill be in beautiful scenery. Taxi tours and walking guides are availablethrough the Beach Front Restaurant.

The whole of Chateaubelair Bay is an invitation to snorkel.Interesting boulders and rocks abound. For divers, Chateaubelair Island ismagnificent; you can find a good dive almost anywhere around it. On the westernside a steep wall has been sculpted by the sea into a rich pattern of ravines,hollows, and tiny caves that are home to eels, soapfish and other creatures. Itis decorated by a variety of black corals including wire coral. Giant grayangelfish often gather over the sand at about 90 feet. There is also a reef 40feet deep where huge structures, covered with a colorful mixture of corals, risefrom the sand like fairy castles. Pufferfish swim by with what look like broadsmiles on their faces. Huge schools of tiny silver fish catch thesun in a brilliant display. You will see a good variety of brightly colored reeffish and creatures such as Christmas tree worms, snake eels and maybe an octopus.On the northern end of the eastern side, a dramatic wall plunges to about 130feet, with elegant soft coral formations. Further south diving is less deep butequally pretty.

This small bay only has room for a handful of yachts. It iswell protected except in bad northerly swells. Steep hills ashore affordpanoramic views for energetic walkers. There is good snorkeling all along thenorthern shore. The water here is deep ~ you begin to think the bottom does notexist as you approach the beach ~ so anchoring bow or stern to the beach orblock plant landing dock is essential. There are a couple of mooring posts onthe beach, or you can run an anchor ashore.

There is a small block plant and a communal playing fieldalong the shore. Perched on the slope near some massive ruined foundations isUnder the Rocks [$D], a tiny local bar owned by Alstar Mars who owns muchof the hillside. You can drink here all day long at regular prices which arelower than most happy hours and Alstar will be delighted to cook you a localmeal at a very reasonable price, given enough notice.

This deep and enchanting bay is part of an estate in theheart of St. Vincent's wildest and richest land. A forest of coconut trees andbananas flows down the valley to the beach. At dusk cattle egrets roost togetherin nearby trees, and at night the tree frogs set up a rich throaty chorus.Sometimes the bay becomes a boiling mass of jumping tuna and fishermen can oftenbe seen with their seine nets waiting patiently. Cumberland is unspoiled bytourism. There are many here happy to take you on a tour or feed you, but it isall so unsophisticated that it still has the charm of an untouched settlement.For the cruising sailor, there is a river to do a freshwater clothes wash. Entertoward the north of the bay to avoid the large rocky shoal that extends from thesouthwestern part of the bay. Cumberland is very deep and you will need toanchor bow or stern to a palm tree. There will be many eager to help. Do not towanyone into the bay; wait till you get right in and choose one of the peopleinside the bay itself.

There is no customs at Cumberland Bay, but you can clear inor out at Wallilabou near by.

Although many of the locals look like bad guys in a spaghettiwestern, for the most part they couldn't be nicer and more helpful.

You can buy vegetables from Maxwell, fish from Joseph andcrayfish from his brother, Uncle Sam. Carlos sells attractive calabash ornamentsthat he handpaints himself. Other locals you will meet include Dande, Zaquie andSydney. Sydney guides people on walks and Kiki sells jewelry. New people areturning up on the waterfront. You will have to be their judge. Under nocircumstances should you do business with anyone you find aggressive orobjectionable in any way.

The old hands are good about not overwhelming yachtspeoplewhen they arrive, and they generally keep an eye on the bay, but veryoccasionally, in the wee hours after they have gone home, dinghies have beenknown to go missing and once or twice the lines tied to the palm trees have beenstolen. There have also been a few armed robberies along this coast. It istherefore advisable to keep the outboard on deck, the dinghy locked to the boat,use an older piece of line across the beach, and try to visit when other yachtsare in the bay.

Bennett [$D] has the bar/Restaurant in the middle of thebeach. He will cook you a good inexpensive meal, and it is an amusing place tohangout. Bennett also has a van and he does tours, including the volcano,Vermont Nature Trails, Trinity Falls or straight into the rainforest up thewater pipe road. Ask him for prices; they sounded inexpensive to me.

The bar at the south end of the bay belongs to Steve and Janefrom Wallilabou. It is called Captain Cumberland and is mainly a bar, thoughthere are plans to do meals also.

Stephens Hideaway is right on the beach. As we went to pressit was in flux, but check it out for yourself.

Maxwell and Joseph have shacks from which they do beachbarbecues; just ask in advance. This is a very local experience.

You should definitely take a walk here. An easy one is up thehill to the north, which rewards you with a great view of the anchorage. Walkback to the road, turn left and keep going. (Unless you land at the north sideof the bay, you must ford a small river, but that is part of the fun.) There isa rum shop in the village just at the point when you are dying for a drink.

Wallilabou, a picturesque bay surrounded by dramatic hills,is about a mile south of Cumberland. Here you are in the heart of St. Vincentamong charming and delightful people. A picturesque tropical waterfall lies justa mile down the road. In 2003 Wallilabou became famous as the main location forthe movie "Pirates of the Caribbean" starring Johnny Depp. Many partsof the stage set are still intact, including a large dock structure in thesouthern part of the bay. A pleasant restaurant/hotel makes part of thewaterfront, and this too was remodeled for the movie and is fun to visit.

Enter in the middle of the bay and pick up the moorings putdown by the Wallilabou Anchorage Restaurant, or anchor where there are nomoorings, and tie bow or stern to the wall, trees, or southern dock structure.In times of northerly swells the northern corner of the bay is more protected.Men in rowing boats still approach you from as much as three miles away askingto take your stern line ashore and wanting you to tow them to Wallilabou. Refuseall such offers. If you do tow them, and their boat overturns (it has happenedto me), you could be liable for their boat and any personal damage. In any case,there are always plenty of line helpers in Wallilabou itself. Ron and Ronnie,the twins, can also help and they have a VHP.

Away from the waterfront, it could be said that the peopleare Wallilabou's best asset. Hopefully one day we will be able to say this ofthe waterfront, but not quite yet. On some days you may have a flotilla of dinghies, surfboards andrafts alongside, each with a vendor imploring you to do business. One or twoseem to have a well-rehearsed "Calcutta" look. If one or two approachyou, by all means consider what they have to offer. If you feel overwhelmed bytoo many, just politely refuse everything, and they go away pretty quickly. Thesituation has improved somewhat this year with vendor education.

The going rate for someone to help you with your lines is $10EC. Most line handlers are good these days. Reliable old favorites include Ronand Ronnie (the twins, VHP: 68 Golden Spoon Restaurant), Frankie,who works for the-restaurant, and Jahman.

You may enjoy buying fruits and vegetables on display byJahman and others, but if the offer is to "go fetch you nice oranges/bananas/mangos," beware: the quality of the product rarely matches thedescription.

Customs clearance is available daily between 1700-1800.Moderate overtime is usually charged. You can also clear in (without payingovertime) earlier in the day in Barrouallie at the police station. However, thisis only immigration clearance and you will have to check with the next customsstation you come to.

Steve and Jane Russell, who run the Wallilabou AnchorageRestaurant [VHP: 68], are keen to attract yachting customers. They have a gooddinghy dock and offer moorings ($20 EC, refundable when you eat ashore), free showers and inexpensive water via a long hosefrom the dock. Phone, fax and email communications are available as are blockand cube ice and overnight accommodation. They will help you dispose ofwell-wrapped garbage. (Do not give it to the boat vendors.)

Ron, one of the twins, can help you with any mechanicalproblems you may have.

The Wallilabou Anchorage Hotel, Restaurant and boutique [VHP:68, $C-D] has a delightful location where you can eat looking out over youryacht, in a "Pirates of the Caribbean" ambience. Owners Steve, who isfrom St. Vincent, and his wife Jane from England, are very pleasant and usuallyin the bar in the evenings. The restaurant is great for seafood; it servesgenerous portions of very well-prepared local food, particularly fish, shrimp,and lobster in season. Happy hour with cheaper drinks is 1700-1800. They have asmall museum, with some magnificent Carib stone head carvings, plus ancienttelephones, whale bones, and more. They also have a "Pirates" museumrelating to the movie. Kids will enjoy their guinea pigs and tortoises. Theyhave a lively little band once a week or by special request.

Ron and Ronnie, the twins, have put a huge effort intobuilding their Golden Spoon Bar and Restaurant [VHP: 68, $D] a short walk away.To get there, you turn right on the main road, take the next left and the nextright ~ several signposts will help you. They are an entertaining pair and youwill have fun taking a drink in their bar and eating in their restaurant. They specialize in seafoodincluding local fish and lobster in season. Visit this place when you reallywant to go local ~ it is in the village with lots of interesting charactersaround. If they have enough demand they will throw on a Karaoke night. Theircall sign is Golden Spoon, but they occasionally answer calls for WallilabouAnchorage in case people want help, so if you want the hotel make sure you arespeaking to the hotel.

There is a small but photogenic waterfall about a mile up theroad, with a perfect swimming hole below. The walk through the lush countrysideis quite delightful and the falls are easy to find. (Just get to the road andturn left; look for the falls on your right.) Along the road you will passMorna's Craft Shop. Here, Vida and Berthold weave great baskets and bowls andyou can watch them at work. They also have brightly colored t-shirts and maketheir own guava liqueur. They also grow lettuce, herbs and some vegetables. Theywill pick them straight from the garden for you, at reasonable prices.

Wallilabou also makes a good base for exploring St. Vincent.Soufriere Volcano, the rainforest, Trinity Falls and the Vermont Nature Trailsare not too far away. The approach to the volcano from this side passes ratherclose to the center of the Marijuana Growers Association. This is not a smartplace to venture on your own. Take a guide. Ron and Ronnie are good and willtake you hiking anywhere, and Jahman also does hikes, or you can arrange a guidethrough the Wallilabou Anchorage Restaurant.

The diving in this area is excellent. For those who like togo on their own, a fair dive can be made right off the rock arch on the northernside of the bay (the snorkel-ing is good here also). You will find a pleasantreef at 30-40 feet with lots of colorful sponges and soft corals inhabited bymany reef fish including angelfish.

For other dives you will need a seaworthy dinghy or localpirogue and guide. Castle Cove is off the headland just north of Troumakar Bay.This dive has a fabulous terrain of steep slopes and cliffs full of crevices, holes and tunnels. The sponges are brightly colored andplenty of hiding places usually reveal lots of fish. The return trip along thetop of the cliff makes for some great views, with schools of brown chromishovering on the edge. We saw spotted drums, angelfish and slipper lobsters.Seahorses and frogfish are not uncommon here.

Rock Pile is off the Mount Wayne (the second long black sandbeach south of Barrouallie). This unusual dive is along a massive pile of rocksabout 20-30 feet deep. The outer edge of the rocks are shaped much like the bowof a boat, and the presence of an old anchor here makes one wonder whether theremay be a wreck buried among the rocks. Rock Pile is very colorful, with manysponges and soft corals. Schools of barracudas are the norm and lots of morayeels live here. You have a good chance of seeing frogfish.

Peter's Hope is off the old factory south of Barroualie. Thisis a colorful shallow reef from 20 to 60 feet where you find a lot of king crabsand have a very good chance of seeing turtles.

You can easily identify Barrouallie by the conspicuous Bottleand Glass rocks. It is a picturesque local town with a few quaint buildings. Themain reason to stop here is to clear in or out. However, the anchorage ispleasant and good enough for an overnight stop. Those who prefer can move on toCumberland, Wallilabou, Petit Byahaut or Young Island Cut. Some people anchor inone of the bays to the north and visit by dinghy.

If you are coming from the north, give a reasonable clearanceto the last visible rock in Bottle and Glass as there is an underwater rock thatextends seaward a few hundred feet. Anchor between the town dock and Pint Rock.There is an adequate anchoring shelf for a quick stop in about 25 feet of water.For overnighting it would be advisable to get one anchor hooked in the shallowwater, drop back and set another in the deeper water, holding the boat bow to the beach. You cantie your dinghy to the town dock. You do not need any boat boys here.

You can clear in at the police station opposite the playingfield. The police seem efficient and friendly here and do not charge overtimeeven on weekends. Clearance is also possible in Wallilabou between about 1600and 1800. It is not possible to clear in Barrouallie during the hours thecustoms officer is in Wallilabou. Barrouallie clearance is immigration only andyou will need to check with customs and pay some fees at the next proper customsstation.

Buccament Bay lies at the head of the Buccament Valley, oneof the longest and deepest valleys on the leeward coast. It is exceptionallybeautiful with steep mountains rising behind the valley. Inland, the hillsattracts showers which often hang there without reaching the coast. As a result,in the afternoon it is not unusual to see an ever-changing rainbow over thevalley for up to half an hour at a time.

The bay is well-protected and very calm, though like any westcoast anchorage, it would be susceptible to exceptionally bad northerly swells.It is well protected from the southerly surge that can affect other south coastanchorages further east. There is an excellent little anchoring shelf close tothe beach in the eastern corner in 15-20 feet of water. The water is very deepoff the shelf, so make sure you are well hooked.

An excellent dinghy dock makes landing easy and provides alittle life in the late afternoons, when locals swim from the beach and oftensit on the dock. So far this bay is completely hassle free ~ no vendors, noneed for line handlers. Furthermore, there is 24-hour security at Buccama.

You cannot miss Buccama on the Bay [$B], a conspicuous seriesof buildings right behind the beach. This lovely restaurant is the creation ofSid Murphy, a Vincentian publican who ran a very successful pub in Kingstown formany years. He has created a gorgeous Caribbean style house, and its massive barhas a lounge area with chairs you can sink into in such comfort it is hard toget out. He has a traditional patio, a great place to take some board games orwrite a letter or the great Caribbean novel. He also has indoor and outdooreating areas, all with a view of the anchorage. The cuisine is inventive and youwill enjoy lobster (in season), shrimps, fish, crab-back and steaks. Sid posts adifferent menu each day. There is talk of a hotel being planned for here.

The snorkel ing from this bay right round to Petit Byahaut isexceptionally good, with lots of brightly colored sponges, small healthy corals,many reef fish, octupuses and more. For a long snorkel tow your dinghy; anchorit here and there in spots you like, and use it to return when you are tired.

PETIT BYAHAUT Petit Byahaut

This small and delightful bay usually makes a good overnightanchorage, though it can be uncomfortable in some sea swells. A stern anchor maycut the roll. Ashore there is a small beach backed by hills with severalconspicuous peaky outcroppings of rock.

If you are coming from the north you pass the village ofLayou, then Buccament Bay (just after the island called Lapaze Rock). The nextheadland is Byahaut Point, it is a distinctive rounded headland. Pass theheadland, head into the bay and pick up a mooring or anchor outside the moorings.Do not anchor inside or among the moorings as they are all hooked together byunderwater chain. If you are coming from King-stown, Byahaut Point is thefurthest headland you see after you leave Kingstown Bay, after Camden Park,Questelles and Clare Valley. Ashore Petit Byahaut looks private; you mainly seesome small green roofs poking out of the vegetation.

If you are coming from abroad, Petit Byahaut offer a $40 UStrip so you can clear customs.

Petit Byahaut [VHP: 68, $A-B], approachable only by sea, isan unusual small resort where guest accommodations are in luxurious tents orscreens under roofs. It is owned by Chuck and Sharon, and now managed by Brianand Nicole from Colorado, Chuck still visits regularly. They have six mooringsavailable for yachts. If you use their moorings, there is a $15 US-a-night fee,deducted from your bill if you are eating dinner ashore. Make sure the mooringyou choose is far enough away from your neighbor. The restaurant is excellent ina beautiful setting of flower gardens with the sea beyond. Special overnightrates are available when there is room. Call for information on the best placeto land your dinghy as the beach is rocky and changes. (At night they often puta lantern at the easiest landing place.)

Brian and Nicole organize great hikes, and it is a safe placeto leave your boat. Their most popular energetic all-day hikes (7-9 hours)are the volcano and Trinity Falls. For the less vigorous there arelovely nature trails at Vermont, which take you into rain forest andparrot habitat with knowledgeable guide Elroy. The whole place isprivate, and you should not wander past the bar without checkingwith management first, though they can direct you to a couple ofwalks.

Snorkeling and diving between Petit Byahaut andBuccament Bay is superb and easily accessible by dinghy, though thecurrent is strong. Petit Byahaut has a dive shop for certified divers,fills tanks and rents gear. They rent gear by the dive fordo-it-yourself divers and will also, when possible, rent you a boatand a guide to take you to the good sites.

Dinosaur Head is the face of Byahaut Point that faces theanchorage. Below is a 120-foot wall covered in coral, sponges and seafans. Youswim through large schools of tangs and see queen angelfish, eels, snappers andspotted drums. The Bat Cave is a short dinghy ride away and can be done as adive or a snorkel in calm conditions. There is about three feet of water at thecave entrance. You can find somewhere to anchor your dinghy outside and there isgood snorkeling in this area. Inside the cave it is quite dark, but you can seethe bats, which cling by the hundreds to the cave walls and roof. Crabs climb up among the bats. You catch a glimpse of the tunnelthat leads off to the left because you can see a hint of light at the end of it.This tunnel is about 30 feet long and about 4 feet wide. You rise and fall onthe swells and if the swells are bad it can be dangerous. The tunnel leads outinto a fissure about 30 feet high and 40 feet deep. Below, the water is abrilliant blue. You swim out through the fissure and divers go down to two hugerocks at 80 and 130 feet that are covered in sponges and corals and teeming withall kinds of fish. The ascent is up a wall textured with nooks and crannies. Ifyou do the Bat Cave dive, it is most important not to disturb the bats. Twospecies live here: fishing bats (Noctilio leporinus), which eat fish andinsects, and the St. Vincent fruit-eating bat (Brachyphylia cavernarum), whichwas thought to be extirpated and is endangered. So swim quietly through the cave,without talking or splashing, and under no circumstances use flashlights orflash photographs.

Ottley Hall lies just to the west of Kingstown, on the farside of Fort Charlotte. It is a yachting facility.

This yard has a 35-ton travel lift, a 200-ton ship lift and adry-dock for anything up to 65 meters long, 15 meters wide and six meters deep.Special covered sheds on rails can be rolled over yachts on the hard or in thedry-dock so that respraying and repainting can be done out of the rain. There isa fuel dock and long term storage for smaller yachts. A marina area in front ofthe workspace is passable under many conditions, but when swells come in it canbe untenable.

The boatyard runs in a very low-key mode. The storage andhaul out parts are fully operational, but the labor force was minimal. Check itout for yourself and see if it suits. The marina is a short taxi ride fromKingstown.

Kingstown, St. Vincent's capital, has some charming cornerswith old stone buildings, cobblestone sidewalks and handsome arches. The oldercorners date back to the late 1700's. An unusual feature of the architecture is that manybuildings have pillars on the outside of the pavement supporting floors above,leaving a covered walkway underneath. The new market is a fascinating place toshop, despite the building being architecturally uninspired, with a gloomyinterior. (Designed by a foreigner, it seems to me a strong argument forgovernments to have more faith' in their own nationals.) It has four floors ofstalls and small shops with excellent fresh fruits and vegetables on the groundfloor, clothing and handicrafts upstairs. You can get a good view of thephotogenic courthouse building from the roof.

More yachtspeople currently visit Kingstown by road or ferrythan by yacht; taxis and buses are readily available from both Young Island Cutand Blue Lagoon, and ferries connect the town to Bequia. The new cruise shipfacility has a yacht dock at its inner end and large passenger-carrying yachtscan tie up to clear customs and provision. There is also a low tie-up forsmaller yachts; however, the crew should be aware that the movement ofcommercial craft in the harbor creates waves along the dock. When you are readyto anchor, the best spot is to the west of the bus station. There may be spaceto tie up your dinghy at the cruise ship facility.

Entry here can be longwinded. Customs are in baggage Hall andnormally fast, but immigration, down the road at the police station, often haslong lines of passport applicants. The system is not designed for yachts. SamTaxi Service can do it all for you from any anchorage.

Internet stations are fast, air-conditioned and inexpensive.Take your choice between Anancy Communications on the Cruise ship dock, OfficeEssentials upstairs a few doors from the Cobblestone, and Computec on EgmontStreet.

Most also do photocopying and typing, send faxes, makeoverseas calls, write cds and more. Eagle Computer Technology opposite the postoffice also has a small internet station. This is also a computer store andrepair facility and has a good stock of media and printer inks.

Cruisers can take on fuel and water at the small dock thatsticks out from the fish market (provided there is no bad swell). It is run bythe local Fisherman's Cooperative. You can contact them by calling St. VincentSignal Station [VHP: 16] for a phone relay. Pull along the west side of the dock,where the water is 15-30 feet deep. Water here is inexpensive and available from0700-1900. The diesel and gasoline pumps open about 0800. Ice is available inthe fish market. Do not use the new fisheries dock that lies just to the west of the fuel dock. See also Services under YoungIsland

For real chandlery, look at our section on Young Island Cutand Blue Lagoon. Of interest in Kingstown is St. Vincent Sales and Services, amodern shop conveniently placed opposite the ferry dock. They are a NAPA jobber,have excellent buys on filters, and make hydraulic hoses while you wait.

For more general hardware, try Ace or Viera opposite the busstation. They have good buys on silicone seal, 5200, sandpaper and tools.Sprotts has an excellent selection of tools and household hardware. Trottman'shas a good range of electrical supplies, and you can find several lumber yardsas well as plumbing and hardware stores.

There are many supermarkets to choose from, but the biggestand best is C.K. Greaves, which is open 0800 till 1700 Monday to Thursday, to1900 on Fridays, and from 0700-1300 on Saturdays. Its subsidiary by the airportis open till 2000 nightly, except Thursdays and Fridays when it opens till 2100,and Sundays, when it opens 0800-1100. Greaves, in town, offers a charter yachtdiscount (just tell the cashier) and delivery to Young Island Cut is negotiablefor large orders (talk to a supervisor). Products include delicatessen meats,smoked fish, French cheeses, whipping cream, and a good selection of wines andliquors. You can also contact them in advance for a full provisioning service,and if you need anything they do not have they will buy it for you.

For a more extensive choice of wines, the place to go isGonsalves Liquor. This state-of-the-art wine and liquor shop is set in a lovelyold historic building with a fully climate-controlled wine room. It is apleasure to visit. They sell wholesale as well as retail and offer a hugeselection from all over the world. You can contact them in advance for a list ofproducts. They will deliver to the nearest dock, and their staff can give goodadvice on their wines. They are open Monday to Friday 0800-1700, and Saturdaytill 1300.

The Marketing Board has a large and very modern supermarketwith some good prices, especially on produce, and the widest selection of rootvegetables you are likely to find. The local market is lively and colorful withmany locals eager to offer you local produce.

Check out also Bonadies Supermarket on Egmont Street; it toohas a pretty broad selection.

Shopping in Kingstown can be fun ~ the stores are allinteresting and local; you sometimes find car batteries rubbing shoulders withfabrics. Department stores include Laynes and Jax. Roger's Photo Studio on BayStreet sells film and does one-hour processing.

For boutiques geared to tourists, wander down to the the cruise-ship complex.

You can choose a lunch spot to suit your mood; we justmention a few. Clean and inexpensive, The Bounty [$D] is perfect for lightsnacks (rotis and small lunch plates). This little cafeteria-style restauranthas lots of charm. Owners Tracy and Tony decorate it with a continuousexhibition of local art that is for sale. They also have a handicraft andboutique corner. The Bounty is upstairs on Egmont Street.

Basil's in the Cobblestone Inn [$C-D] is cool, spacious andsocial. Here you can get a first-rate lunch buffet, or climb up the stairs tothe Rooftop Restaurant [breakfast and lunch only] for a breezy open atmospherewith a view.

Rainbow Palace [$D] is clean, simple, and serves good localfood inexpensively.

Aggie's [$D], is just out of town on Town Hill Road, a veryshort walk. This is a delightful home-style restaurant that opens at 0800 in themorning and keeps going till after dinner. They serve good and inexpensive localfood and have a big lunch buffet on Friday for $15EC.

Out on the cruise ship pier are several small lunch places [$D].You can sit in the open overlooking at the bay and take your choice. The Lime isgood for local food.

THE SOUTH COAST OF ST. VINCENT

The current along this coast is predominantly westward, up totwo knots. It reverses weakly to the east for a few hours on the rising tide,which can create choppy seas.

When leaving Kingstown for Young Island, give the headlandgood clearance as there is a submerged rock about 200 feet south of its easternend.

Two good anchorages lie close together: Young Island Cut andBlue Lagoon. Both are well served by buses and taxis to town,

and are well placed for exploring St. Vincent. The nearestsupermarkets are near the airport. If you visit the Calliaqua fish market around1600, you have a chance of meeting the fishermen as they return with the day'scatch. For cooking gas, go to the filling station just before the airport (ashort taxi ride). Both anchorages are within dinghy reach of each other, so readabout services and shore facilities for both anchorages.

Young Island Cut is a favorite with yachtspeople. Theanchorage lies in clear water between Young Island and the mainland. At nightthe lights of Young Island take on a fairytale look and a convivial array ofbars and restaurants lines the shore.

Young Island is open and easily entered from the west. Thechannel to the east of Young Island is narrow, curves, and is best given a miss,even with the new beacons.

You have to anchor with care. The current sweeps through bothways and the center of the cut goes as deep as 65 feet. There is good holding inthe north or western parts of the anchorage, but it occasionally rolls.Anchoring bow

and stern is essential or your boat will swing with thechange of current and bang into someone else. The seabed close to Young Islandoffers poor holding. Young Island's electrical cable carries 11,000 volts,enough to make your whole boat glow, so anchor well clear, or better still, usea mooring.

Moorings are available in Young Island Cut. These are a greathelp as anchoring here is not easy. The present system of unauthorized mooringsis managed by two taxi drivers who feel that if you rent one of their moorings,you should also take their taxi. To avoid two boats competing for your businesswhen you arrive, call on the VHP and book your mooring in advance. Mooring ratesare $15 US up to 89 feet and $25 US for larger boats. These moorings have beenbuilt to take large yachts.

There are plans to put a customs station in this area, eitherin Young Island Cut, #Calliaqua, or Blue Lagoon. It may well happen during thelife of this guide. Until then, some yachtspeople visit town by bus to clear customs. You canalso get Sam to do it for you.

Barefoot in Blue Lagoon has a single computer and is the bestbet for email and other communications. Beachcomber offers an unreliableinternet station.

Sam of Sam Taxi Tours [VHP: 68] is one of those who rentsmoorings. Sam is also the agent for large yachts and even cruise ships. Withagents in both Bequia and Union, Sam can handle their need right through theislands. His customs clearance is very popular, and he can arrange it whereveryou anchor, for example allowing you to clear out from the Tobago Cays. Hecharges $50 US for yachts up 90 feet, $100 US for yachts up to 129 feet and $200US for yachts over 130 feet. (Extra transportation charges are applicable insome anchorages.) His crew do laundry and fill gas bottles. Sam Taxi Service handles communications (includingemail) and many skippers get their spares sent here, which Sam will clearthrough customs. Sam Taxi Tours also rents cars and has a fleet of taxis forscenic or shopping trips. He puts out a weather forecast from August to April at0900 and 1730 (announced on VHP: 16/68 given on 06) and arranges duty-free fuelbunkering for larger yachts. He will also collect and dispose of well-wrappedgarbage in Young Island ($5EC a bag).

Charlie Tango [VHF: 68] is the other moorings man; Charliealso runs a full taxi and tour service and will help in any way he can.

Ocean Allegro sells ice, does laundry, will dispose ofwell-wrapped garbage, and will fill jerry jugs with water. They even letcustomers check their email on the restaurant computer.

The Aquatic Club [VHF: 68] sometimes sells water and ice fromtheir new dock. If you use it, keep an eye on the current. See also BlueLagoon.

KP Marine, owned by Paddy Punnett, is the sales and serviceagent for Yamaha outboards, which in St. Vincent are duty-free. I have foundPaddy's prices to be among the best. Between KP and Howard across the street youcan buy Yamaha and Johnson outboards and Yanmar inboards. KP Marine also stocksgeneral chandlery with chain, anchors, rope, antifouling paint, resins, Westsystem epoxy, some electronics, and more. Two-stroke outboard oils are availablewholesale for those with large engines. Paddy and Keith Howard also import onorder Eduano boats from Columbia and Pirogues from Trinidad. They sell to bothlocal fishermen and powerboat enthusiasts. Paddy is a keen boating man himselfand can give you good advice whatever your problem. They are in Calliaquaopposite Howard Marine. Anything not in stock they can special order and bringin at short notice via courier

If you have a mechanical problem, contact Howard Marine[VHP: 68]. They fix all makes of outboard (they are agents for Johnson);are happy .to fix all diesels, and are agents for Yanmar. They have amarine railway and can haul yachts up to 60 feet (8 feet deep). This is avery suitable system for wide catamarans. They can take care of your shaftrudder and other underwater problems.

Verrol at Nichols Marine has an efficient mechanized workshopwhere he repairs and reconditions alternators and starter motors in a few hours.They come back looking and working like new. Verrol also does aluminum andstainless welding. Call him on the telephone and he will come and sort out yourproblem wherever you are in St. Vincent. (In Bequia you can leave things for himwith GYE or Sam Taxi Tours.) Verrol's workshop is in Belaire, just behind theairport, which is closer to the south coast than to town. Oscar's Machine Centeris a few houses down from Verrol. Oscar is good and can do all manner of jobs onall kinds of metals and can resurface engine blocks or fix your old winches. Heworks quite closely with Verrol, who does the welding.

Barefoot Yacht Charters has a large new sail loft with agreat view. They repair sails as well as working with cushions and canvas. Theysell new sails from Doyle Sails, and will take care of the measurement andfitting.

Buhler Yachts in Calliaqua is run by Matt Llewellyn, a Vincentian who lived and worked for some 30 years in BritishColumbia. They build fiberglass yachts, especially large catamarans for thecharter industry. They can also do any kind of custom construction to order,including tanks. They have the technical ability and equipment on hand for allkinds of fiberglass repair jobs and spray painting. Check them out if you have aboat problem. Matt is helpful.

If you need a marine surveyor, Joe Brown works not only in St.Vincent and the Grenadines, but also anywhere in the Caribbean. He is Lloydsapproved and has his own trawler for visits to other islands.

Several supermarkets are near the airport. On the YoungIsland side, Delco has not only food, but quite a selection of hardware. Anothernew supermarket lies just round the corner. Trotmans's has a branch of theirelectrical store a little further toward the airport on the right side of theroad. Sunrise supermarket, opposite the airport terminal, is quite big and partof C.K. Greaves.

In Calliaqua, Gourmet Food has a pretty wide selecticfn,including lots of hard-to-find specialist foods, along with good frozen meat,shrimp, and fish. They offer a complete provisioning service and will work withyachts, though most of their work comes from hotels and restaurants in theGrenadines. They can give you a list of their stock and prices. In Calliaqua youcan sometimes buy fish from the fish market in the afternoon when the boats comein ~ try around 1600. See also Blue Lagoon.

Flowers are now available for all levels from cruisers tosuperyachts. Check out Michelle's Garden Shed in the KP Marine building inCalliaqua. Michelle can take care of all your flower needs and also has aboutique corner.

Young Island Cut is lined with restaurants and is a goodplace to bar hop and eat out. Take your time, wander along and peruse the menustill you find the one that suits you. Ocean Allegro [$B] is one of the best both in atmosphere and food. It is run by Lisa ChamsRoberts, who came from Canada, where her Allegro restaurant won the best newrestaurant award in Vancouver. She has now come to the tropics for a lessstressful lifestyle; she works in the restaurant and oversees everything herself.Ocean Allegro is on the waterfront with a garden setting in front. Lisaspecializes in seafood and has a live lobster tank in season. There is astandard menu with several daily specials. Her use of all fresh ingredients andinteresting sauces and recipes has made this one of the most popular restaurantsin the cut. She has a daily happy hour from 1700-1800, and bar is quite apopular meeting spot.

The French Verandah [$ A] at the Mariners is upmarket andexcellent. Owners Miguel and Simone were originally from France and their Frenchcuisine is superb. They have a perfect location right on the waterfront (theydon't mind customers using their dinghy dock on a regular basis and it is thebest and most hassle free along the front). The atmosphere is romantic, with candlelight and the sea.

Sunset Shores is a pleasant hotel with a pool just behind thebeach. The cooking is a blend of both Europe and Caribbean; local seafood andsteaks are both specialties.

The Lime 'n Pub [$A-C] is informal. You can relax, play darts,meet people, and prop up the bar with draft beer in an iced mug. Owner Dave Dunnserves a big variety of food and aims to have something for everyone.

Beachcombers [VHP: 68, $B-D] is an intimate restaurant; theview of the anchorage and sea beyond is framed by almond trees. Delightfulflower gardens are in back. Seafood, local specialties and snacks are available.Beachcombers also has rooms for rent and a popular health spa with sauna, steamroom, Turkish bath, aroma therapy, facials, and a gymnasium.

The Aquatic Club is geared to the local market with buffets,grills, and live lobster. The action sometimes gets heavy into the early hourson Friday, Saturday, and many holiday nights.

Paradise Inn [$C-D] is very pleasant; they offer local foodand occasional barbecues with live music.

Across the water, with a good dinghy dock, Young IslandResort [VHP: 68, $A] is a wonderful place of tropical flowers and trees, andwell worth a visit for a sundowner. They have a steel band and otherentertainment on a weekly basis (call for details). If you wish to dine at YoungIsland Resort, make reservations in advance.

If you look back from the anchorage you see a large buildingat the end of the beach, to the west of Young Island Cut (Indian Bay). This isthe Grand View Beach Hotel, one of St. Vincent's grandest traditional hotels,owned by the Sardine family. By day you can walk there by going up the road atthe end of the beach and following the coast by path as closely as possible.There are a couple of reasons to visit. On the beach, the Grand View Grill [$C-D]is run by Caroline, part of the Sardine family, with Stephen, her friend fromJamaica. They open daily at 1400 and the kitchen stays open till 2200. This is agreat place to relax ~ they serve pizza, pasta, snacks, and grilled meals,including fish, shrimp, and steak. Try to make it on a Friday, when Stephen hasa genuine spicy Jamaican jerk night. Caroline is an artist (very modern); youcan check out the Little Art Gallery below. Up the hill, the hotel pool has oneof St. Vincent's great views from atop a cactusy knoll. This is also the placefor a more formal dinner at Wilkie's [$A-B], the hotel's main restaurant. Theyhave a great chef who offers an a la carte menu that changes daily. Grand Viewhas squash, a gym, and tennis courts available to the public.

Boutiques include the Young Island Dock Shop, The Lime 'n Pubboutique, and a boutique in the Aquatic Club.

Fort Duvernette stands behind Young Island, a monument to theingenuity of the soldiers of a bygone age who managed to get cannons up to thetop. Fort Duvernette was used in the late 18th century, when the settlers werefighting off the Black Caribs

from inland. The cannons face in both directions. There is aplace to tie a dinghy. The 250 steps to the top have been closed for a long time,but if they ever get reopened there is a panoramic view from the top.

Diving in St. Vincent is really wonderful. The ruggedshoreline is equally dramatic below the surface. Walls and reefs that drop fardeeper than any sane person can dive are common, fish are everywhere ~ feedingin schools, tucked under rocks and hiding in sponges. The long coastline and thepresence of only a few divers has kept this environment pristine.

Dive St. Vincent [VHP: 68] is run by Padi/Naui instructorBill Tewes. Bill has been here well over a decade and is on nodding terms withmost of the fish and sea creatures. He has the honor of appearing on a St.Vincent and Grenadines postage stamp in full diving regalia as part of anunderwater series that features his photographs. He is very good at pointing outunusual fish and sea creatures. Bill also offers trips to the Falls of Baleine. Charter skippers should know that Bill can pickup a group from a yacht heading north, take them to the Falls of Baleine as theyacht powers up the coast, and deliver them back at the north end of the island.

Dive Fantasea, based in Young Island Cut, is another gooddive shop with a Padi instructor who is very happy to work with yachts.

Those diving on their own will find the base of FortDuvernette easily accessible, though you do have to be careful of the currentthat tries to sweep you out to sea. Anchor your dinghy to the west of the FortDuvernette dinghy dock. Follow the base of Fort Duvernette down. Almost as soonas you begin you will be surrounded by large schools of brown chromis. At 40feet you find yourself in a pleasant area of house-sized boulders with nooks andcrannies where eels, shrimps and angelfish hide out. Large schools of sergeantmajors hug the rocks, while offshore jacks, mackerels and schools of margatespatrol a little further out.

Other, even better dives, are best done with a local dive shop, as the anchorages are dangerous foryachts and local knowledge about the currents is essential. Bottle Reef underFort Charlotte starts at 25 feet. You descend along the foot of an underwaterrock headland. On your right is a gentle slope of coral decorated by sponges andmany smaller soft corals. On the left the headland turns into a sheer walladorned by deep-water sea fans. There are small bushes of black coral in severalcolors. At the bottom we found several cherub fish. These little critters, thesmallest of the angelfish, are only a couple of inches long. You round thebottom of the headland at 100 feet and ascend through huge schools of grunts andeven larger schools of brown chromis that seem to explode into a variety ofpatterns all around. There is always a chance of finding ancient bottles. Acurious current pattern here makes it possible to have the current with you thewhole way.

Kingstown South is on the south side of Kingstown Harbor. Youcan see by looking at the sheer cliffs above and the schooling chromis belowthat this will be an interesting dive. The descent is down a steep "slopeand this is the place to look for the unusual red-banded lobster. This colorfullittle crustacean is clearly marked in bands and spots of red, white and gold.Unlike other Caribbean lobsters, it has claws, though they are tiny. We saw onewhen we finished our descent and three more later, as well as a slipper lobsterand the more normal spiny lobster. We circled slowly anticlockwise up the slopelooking at sponges, corals and big rocks. You often see large pelagic fishswimming out toward the sea. Among the many reef fish you will meet are spotteddrums and filefish.

New Guinea Reef is on the east side of Petit Byahaut. Thisspectacular dive takes you down a wall to 90 feet where large black corals occurin bushes of white, pink, dark green, light green, brown and red. All threeblack coral species are here. Fish include black jacks, parrotfish, Frenchangelfish and occasional sightings of the rather rare frilled goby, frogfish andsea horses. An overhang near the bottom makes this dive visually spectacular.

Blue Lagoon is a pleasant anchorage with a beach and plentyof palm trees. You can lie comfortably, protected by land and reef. The mainshoals between Blue Lagoon and Young Island are marked by large beacons (seesketch chart). These are in fairly shallow water, so do not cut them too fine.

The west entrance opening is marked by two large beacons.Pass between them (the water is deeper a shade north of the" center). Afterthat, head straight across the reef into the deep water. Depths in the channelvary with the tide from about five foot nine inches to about seven and a halffeet. Call Lagoon Marina on VHP: 68 to ask about the state of the tide. Do notattempt to use the deeper south entrance as it is dangerous and has gotten manya yacht in trouble. You can use the marina or pick up a mooring ~ so manymoorings fill the bay that there is hardly any room to anchor. The red onesbelong to TMM charter company; the ones with a strip and/or Barefoot painted onthem belong to Barefoot Yacht charters. They all stand by on VHP: 68/16. If youtake a mooring you want to be as far over to the eastern side as you can ~ thewater at the south and west can be choppy.

The Lagoon Marina and Hotel [VHP: 68] is a delightful marinawith generously wide, well-built floating docks. It is the base of both Sunsailand the TMM charter company. Sunsail operates both the hotel and the docks.Plectricity (110/220-volt, 50 cycles) can be arranged at the dock. Top up onwater, fuel (both diesel and gasoline) and ice. Services include showers,laundry and communications. When available, rooms are offered at special rates.Sunsail is very helpful and will help sort out your mechanical or electricalproblem. Ask for Bob and he will help you find what you need.

TMM charter company [VHP: 68] has about 20 moorings in thelagoon, many in the calmer areas, and can usually rent you one at a reasonablerate. They will send a guide to bring you in either reef pass (depending on yourdepth and the tide) if you call them between 0800 and 1600. Manager John West is happyto give advice and a helping hand to any yachtspeople with problems. They alsomanage yachts and will hold faxes.

Mary Barnard's Barefoot Yacht Charters [VHP: 68] is a chartercompany that welcomes visiting yachts. They are the only charter company herethat have an ASA accredited sailing school. Their dock is on the outside of thereef with about 6.5 feet at the end and they have about 20 moorings inside. Theyoffer full communications, a travel agency, an air charter service, diesel,laundry, water and ice. They rent moorings ($15 US a night). They keep a goodstock of spares for their boats and will help cruisers if they have a neededpart, or they will order parts on request from the catalogues.

Blue Lagoon is a good place to leave your boat while youexplore ashore. If you decide to do this by taxi, Robert of Robert Taxi [VHP:68] is a real gentleman and very reliable. He works with Elvis, who is also good. You can alsoask at the desk about car rentals.

The Lagoon Marina's Green Flash bar has a perfect view overthe harbor. Their restaurant [VHP: 68, $B-C] is open from breakfast to dinnerand offers well-prepared Creole and international food. They also have aboutique selling local handicrafts, books, and souvenirs, as well as essentialslike suntan cream, and they have a basic grocery.

Barefoot's Surfside Restaurant [VHP: 68, $B-D], owned by Boband Sue, has a great view south to Bequia. Enjoy their comfortable lounging area,play backgammon, catch up on your email (office hours). Seth occasionally cooksgreat Indian food for a special lunch. The menu is available for lunch or dinnerand is wide-ranging, with rotis, sandwiches, soups and hamburgers, as well asseafood, steaks, and other meals. The bar is a favorite with many locals.

Blue Lagoon and Young island Cut are ideally situated tovisit St. Vincent's interior, especially the east coast and the volcano. I wouldurge anyone to visit Montreal Gardens in the Mesopotamia Valley. The drivethrough this rich agricultural valley is reward enough in itself, withspectacular views in every direction. Montreal Gardens, right at the head of thevalley against the steep mountains, is spectacular. Owner Tim Vaughn and histeam maintain these flower gardens impeccably. There are winding paths, bridges,steps, and a river, all among brilliant tropical flowers. The only sounds arerunning water and birdsong. He charges a very nominal fee for entry. You couldeasily enjoy an hour or two here (open December to August).

Bequia and Mustique, in the northern Grenadines, are bothfrequently visited by yachtspeople. Although only about eight miles apartgeographically at their closest points, they are very different from each other.

A strong current sets to the west throughout the Grenadines.Its effect is particularly noticeable in the Bequia and Can-ouan channels, so itis advisable to point eastwards of your destination and check your bearingsperiodically to see how much you are being set. There is least set when the tidal streamruns counter to the regular current, but this is a mixed blessing since the seasbecome rougher, and sometimes positively uncomfortable. The roughest seas are tobe found just north of Canouan and off the Bequia side of the Bequia Channel,especially up by Bequia Head. It is not unusual for the current to be going intwo different directions on opposite sides of the channel.

The passage from Young Island Cut and Blue Lagoon in St. Vincent to Bequia isusually pleasant off-the-wind sailing. It is a little closer tothe wind from the west coast. Although Admiralty Bay is hidden till you getquite close, you can usually see the headland that you have to round because itstands out against the more distant land behind. Look behind you to see whichway you are being set by the current, and make adjustments so you stay on course.Big seas can lead to a little exciting surfing and one often covers the eight ornine miles in about an hour and a half. Be prepared for the Bequia Blast afterthe lee of Devil's Table. Many drop their sails here, but if you fancy anexhilarating short beat, keep going. When approaching Devil's Table you mightnotice what appears to be a madman zooming around your yacht, standing up in atiny inflatable and being badly bounced by the waves. Fear not, it is justKenmore Henville, who makes his living taking photographs of arriving yachts. Ifhe takes your yacht's picture he will bring a proof for you to see. There is noobligation to buy.

Sailing the other way is a different matter. To make YoungIsland or Blue Lagoon from Admiralty Bay you normally have to tack to windwardagainst a foul current. It usually takes two hours and can take three or more.It is generally quicker to tack or motor sail up the Bequia coast and then shootacross from Anse Chemin, the bay just southwest of Bequia Head. This is fine incalm weather, but on rough days you can sail straight into a range of liquidmountains near Bequia Head. If the seas are rough, head straight over to St.Vincent and then work back up the coast.

Sailing to the west coast of St. Vincent is usually a finereach.

The trip between St. Vincent and Mustique is about 15 miles,and in good going it takes two and a half to three hours. The seas around thenorth end of Bequia can be very rough, but one often gets an exhilarating reach.Whether you are sailing north or south, keep well off Bequia Head and the Bullet,as the current pulls you down that way. Otherwise, just strap everything down,hang on tight and-ride 'em!

(See chart page 232 ) Most people approach Mustique fromAdmiralty Bay. The easiest way is to round West Cay and sail out between PigeonIsland and Isle de Quatre. As you approach Mustique, Montezuma Shoal is a realdanger. It is marked by a beacon placed right on the middle of the reef. Passeither side but keep at least a quarter of a mile clear of the beacon. Thebeacon is red and black, but if you get close enough to see the colors you will probably run aground.

There are passages between Semplers Cay and Petit Nevis, andbetween Petit Nevis and Isle de Quatre, but they can be very rough and thecurrent extremely rapid. Furthermore, there is a reef extending well south ofPetit Nevis, so serious thought should be given to prevailing conditions beforechoosing either of these routes. It is an easy seven-mile reach from FriendshipBay to Mustique or back.

As you round West Cay (Bequia) and head south, it will bepossible to see Petit Canouan. If the visibility is good, Canouan itself will bein sight. Glossy (Glass) Hill, the southwestern point of Canouan, is joined tothe rest of the land by a low isthmus that stays below the horizon till you getquite close, so Glossy Hill appears initially as a separate island.

This trip can be a roily run with the wind right behind. Ioften tack downwind to make it a reach. bequia at a glance

Bequia at a glance

Port Elizabeth is a port of entry for St. Vincent and theGrenadines; the procedure is simple. Customs is open weekdays 0830-1800 (overtimeafter 1600). On Saturdays they open 0830-1200 and (overtime) 1500-1800. Sundaysand holidays they open (overtime) 0900-1200, 1500-1800.

All yachts pay an entry charge of $5 EC per person per day,up to a maximum of $35 EC per person, after which you don't pay any more tillyou leave the country and come back in again. In addition, charter yachts basedoutside St. Vincent are charged $4 EC per foot per month (yearly fees are alsoavailable). You can cruise here as long as you wish. You will normally bestamped in for a month, and then return for extensions, which are in the sameoffice and easy to obtain.

Jet skis and the like are strictly forbidden throughout theGrenadines, as is spearfishing (see also St. Vincent).

Garbage must be taken to the provided facility by the market,or you can pay Daffodil to take it. Do not dispose of it in any other way!

Office and bank hours are as for St. Vincent. Most storesopen from 0800-1200 and from 1400-1700.

Card and coin phones may be found near the tourist office.You can buy phone cards in the post office and Solana's. See also St. Vincent.

See St. Vincent.

There are inexpensive buses which run to many parts of theisland. (Ask in the little tourist office on the quay.) Taxis are plentiful andreasonable. Sample taxi rates for up to four people are: EC$

Most rides 15

Longer rides 20

Tours 50 per hour

Rental jeeps and motor-bikes are available (see our directory).You need to buy a local license, which costs $50 EC. Drive on the left.

Bequia has long been a favorite of yachtspeople. Isolatedenough to remain relatively unspoiled, yet lively enough to be stimulating andentertaining, it provides a blend of the old and new that many find perfect. Itis well connected with St. Vincent, and the other Grenadines, both by the newairport and by the cheaper and more traditional ferries. Some yachtspeople leavetheir boats anchored in Bequia and take a ferry over to visit St. Vincent.

Bequia is an island of sailors and boats, linked to theoutside world mainly by the sea. The old traditions continue. Boats are built onthe beach in the shade of palm trees. Everything from little "two bow"fishing boats to grand schooners are built by eye, using only simple hand tools.A big launching is always a festive occasion, with rum flowing freely, musicplaying and hundreds of brightly dressed people helping to roll the boat downthe beach into the sea. Bequians travel all over the world on cargo vessels, andquite a few have ended up owning their own. Some are intrepid fishermen who venture all over the Grenadines in little open boats.

The island has an active whaling station in a low-key andvery traditional way. By IWC agreement, local whalers can take four whales ayear, and in some years they do not get any. The whaling season is betweenFebruary and April. At this time of year humpback whales leave their northernfeeding grounds and head south to mate and bear young. Few people are left inBequia with the skills necessary to hunt them ~ a daring feat in an open sailingboat, using hand thrown harpoons. On the rare occasions that they make a kill,the hunters tow the whale to Semplers Cay for butchering.

Bequians are a proud people, descendants of settlers who camefrom North America on whaling boats, from farms in Scotland, from France asfreebooters and from Africa.

Bequia's main harbor is Admiralty Bay. There is a harbor onthe south coast called Friendship Bay and a daytime anchorage at Petit Nevis.

Admiralty Bay is a huge, well-protected bay with Bequia'stown, Port Elizabeth, at its head. Small hotels, bars, restaurants and shopsspread from town along the southeastern shore, strung together by a tiny pathalong the beach. Several yacht services are grouped together in Ocar on thenorthern shore. Others are in Port Elizabeth. Good dinghy docks are spacedaround the bay.

The entrance to Admiralty Bay is straightforward. As youapproach from the north, the bay begins to open up, and you can see two finebeaches, Lower Bay and Tony Gibbons (aka Princess Margaret) Beach, separated bya distinct headland. East of Tony Gibbons Beach, from the Sunny Caribbee intotown, it becomes more built up.

When approaching, allow plenty of room for Devil's Table,which extends a good way from shore: it is marked by a yellow and black beacon.Once in the harbor, take care not to hit the shoals that lie offshore betweenthe eastern end of Tony Gibbons Beach and the Green Boley. Yachts anchor insidesome of these shoals, so it looks like tempting empty space. If entering atnight, avoid the unlit, heavy metal buoys near Bequia Marina. These are used forbig ship tie-ups, and the large plastic one has a hose running ashore.

Anchor well clear of the local ferry channel to the main dock.The ferries are large and need plenty of turning room. Keep out of their wayat all times. Yachts may not tie up to the ferry dock or the dinghy dock.

There are many places to anchor. Many choose a spot up intown, off the Frangipani Hotel. The water is deep, and it takes lots of anchorline and sometimes a couple of tries to get hooked in the muddy sand.

The area by the Bequia Marina is calm. Avoid anchoring on thewreck that is at 13° 00.67'N, 61° 14.47'W. There is about 12 feet of waterover it, but it has tied up many an anchor. Some yachts anchor off the Old FigTree and Sunny Caribbee. Enter inside the shoals by following a line between theruined fort and the Sunny Caribbee. The anchorage is 8 to 10 feet deep, shoalingtoward the shore. Sometimes this is a beautiful spot, calm as a lake, the waterdecorated with floating pink blossoms from the white cedar trees that line theshore. Yet in times of bad northerly swells, it is untenable. The shallow bankson both sides of the harbor (8-20 feet) are a mixture of hard sand and deadcoral, which is poor holding. You need to let out ample chain and make sure you are holding.

Tony Gibbons Beach is one of the easiest and prettiestanchorages, yet within a reasonable dinghy ride to town. Holding is good in sand.It occasionally becomes roily in northerly swells, when landing a dinghy on thebeach can be hazardous. Lower Bay is also easy and picturesque though a little further away and more subject to swells.

Moorings are available. The usual charge is $15US a night.There are plans to legalize and create standards for them. (Checkwww.doyleguides.com for updates). Until then they are uncontrolled and (exceptDaffodil's) without legal standing. While better than many a bareboat anchor, they break free far too often. The moorings 8-10 feet deepoff L'Auberge des Grenadines, are completely untenable in bad northerly swells,which usually arrive in the middle of the night. Demand a receipt or you may beasked to pay twice. If you anchor close to an empty illegal mooring, you cannotbe made to move. Similarly, if you take a mooring and an anchored boat swingstoo close you must move if they were there first. Rely on your judgement; thevendors are only interested in collecting the fee.

Port Elizabeth is a port of entry. Customs and immigration,along with the post office, are in the most luxurious customs office in the Windwards, right behind the ferry dock.Formalities are simple ~ just one single-sheet form.-Customs open weekdays at08304800 (overtime after 1600). On Saturdays they open 0830-1200 and (overtime)1500-1800. Sundays and holidays (all overtime) they open 0900-1200,1500-1800.Fees are given in Bequia at a Glance (page 233).

There is a five-knot speed limit in the harbor. This appliesto dinghies, tenders and water taxis, as well as yachts and ships. If you needto speed into town, do so only in the main shipping channel in the center of theharbor. Currently, fast small boats are the most serious danger to life and limbin this harbor. We have already had one death and several maiming accidents. Isfive minutes worth it?

Everyone and his brother has an internet cafe in Bequia thisyear. You can get good rates and good service, with everyone now on high-speedconnections, and nearly everyone will let you hook up your own computer. Mostare-air conditioned, so you can surf in the cool. In general, the further you have to walkfor a place, the cheaper the rates. Many places will help you with overseascalls, either net-to-phone or via the operator, and most rates are better thanyou will get via the public phones.

Surf n' Send is conveniently placed right in the Gingerbread.It has a relatively spacious setup and offers internet access and net-to-phoneoverseas calls. Junior, the owner, has a good wireless hook-up, so you may beable do your internet from your yacht (currently you need to be close toGingerbread, but equipment to extend the range for the whole bay is planned).You can also use your own computer in the comfort of the restaurant. If youdon't have wireless, Junior can rent or sell you a card and help you with theset up. He is technically excellent and can help with repairs and softwareproblems. Junior also designs web sites.

RMS, run by Ros, is conveniently placed just opposite themarket and very close to the market dinghy dock. Ros has eight computers. Herminimum rate is $1 EC, making this a good bet if you are quick.

RMS is a also a digital photo center; you can download andprint digital pictures here, as well as making posters and burning CDs. Ros alsodoes customs brokerage, photocopying, phone and fax, typing documents,laminating, and creating cards and flyers. You can rent digicell phones here fora reasonable charge and buy the cards to go with them. Ros is the agent for SamTaxi tours. Sam is the main yacht agent for St. Vincent and the Grenadines andhe handles all the needs of the big boats from customs clearance (even in theCays or Cumberland) to arranging fuel bunkering. On the taxi and tour side, hehas both the regular Bequia truck taxis and a larger air-conditioned bus. Ofinterest to short-handed cruisers is his island tour for $10 US a person - nominimum, join up with others. This runs every day except Saturday in season.Sunset Internet is upstairs at Handy Andy's next to Maria's Cafe. One reallygreat advantage of this place is their hours ~ 0800-2300. You can even do youremail after dinner. Many people come here to hook up their own computers inMaria's Cafe. Sunset also does phone calls and faxes, digital photodownloads and cd burns, photocopying, scanning and more.

ACS Computer Services is a little hard to find ~ it is in theback of the church, upstairs in the large building. It is worth knowing about,as owner Antoinette is a certified network engineer, and can sort out yoursoftware and hardware computer problems or relieve you of that virus you know ishanging out somewhere below your keyboard. Net-to-phone calls and faxes are available. Antoinette also does scanning, laminating, andbinding.

Frangipani Yacht Services [VHP: 68] are open weekdays from0830 to 1300 and 1400 to 1700. They have a mail drop, telephone, fax, and email,and will help in any way they can.

Cyber City Internet Cafe is upstairs above the BequiaBookshop. This is an excellent place for surf addicts ~ they have a 30-day,500-minute membership for $75EC, as well as regular shorter rates.

You can also hook up down in Lower Bay. Creative Line is inan architect's office near the bakery, and Keegan's has an internet cafe thatsometimes works.

Nowhere in the Caribbean is better than Bequia for taking onwater, diesel fuel, and ice, or for getting laundry done. Call Daffodil MarineServices [VHP: 68/67] and they will deliver alongside in a mobile servicestation. If you just want laundry done, they will send a smaller boat. You canalso call Lighthouse Laundry [VHP: 68] for laundry pick-up. For gasoline, go tothe Shell station in town.

Tradewinds is a successful crewed charter companyspecializing in catamaran holidays. They run Tradewinds Yacht Club Marina(VHF:77) for their boats and open it to the general public every day from0800-1700. It is often full of their own yachts on Friday and Saturday nights,but at other times there is usually plenty of room for docking. The fuel dock isgenerally open and sells block and cube ice. They have a railway haul-out run byNeil Saunders that takes boats up to 50 tons, 7-feet draft and 34-feet beam. Itis very popular with beamy cats. They have a restaurant.

Grenadine Yacht Equipment fills cooking gas bottles,including French ones. Block ice is available from Daffodil. Cube ice may befound in the Gingerbread Cafe and the Frangipani.

When it comes to garbage in Bequia, our reputation is prettyterrible to date. Please observe the following: You can put your garbage in thebig dumpsters near the head of the market dinghy dock (no charge). You can callDaffodil Marine any time and they will collect it from you at a charge of either $3 EC(small bag) or $5 EC (large bag). They take it to the main dump, not to town.Never accept offers from any one else to "take your garbage."

Lighthouse laundry (in a new building close to the market)offers showers for a fee and does laundry. Handy Andy also has machines and youcan do it yourself.

Local water taxis are painted brightly and bear such names asOuternet, African, McCarthy and Radio. Just call any water taxi on VHP: 68. Theusual charge for a drop to or from a yacht is $10 EC, regardless of how manypeople want to go. Try to choose taxi drivers who drive slowly and carefully.McCarthy offers an excellent service every morning by delivering home-bakedbread around the anchorage from around 0700. He is a low-key salesman, so youwill have to watch out for him and give him a shout, or call him on VHP: 68.

Bequia is the home of Caribbean Compass, theCaribbean's best, free waterfront paper. Pick up your copy practically anywherearound town.

Bequia has lots of places to buy chandlery and fishing gear.Happily, they all seem to use completely different suppliers so the range ispretty vast. Make the rounds and check the best buys. What you don't find inone, you will probably get in the next, and find cheaper in the third, justafter you've already bought it.

Grenadine Yacht Equipment (GYE) [VHP: 16/68] have a yachtchandlery especially good on technical things, including an excellent stock ofbrass pipe fittings, stainless steel fastenings, electrical bits, a huge stockof batteries, Danforth anchors, marine accessories and parts. You can send a faxor make a photocopy here. It is connected with Oscar's Machine Shop in St.Vincent and they will accept work for him (see technical yacht services)

Wallace & Co., next to GYE (use the same dinghy dock), is both aduty-free chandlery and a fishing store. They are the Icom agent and carry smallwaterproof hand-held units. They also sell many GPS units, as well as rope, blocks, shackles, stainlessyacht hardware, and first-rate safety gear. There is often new and interestingstock. This is also an excellent fishing store, with numerous lures, rods, Pennreels (sales and service), and every kind of accessory. They put together theirown brand of diving lures, which are good for catching fish without attractingboobies. Jergen and Bip both have biology backgrounds and will offer you goodadvice on lures and rigs. In addition they stock snor-keling gear and somediving equipment.You will also find a book swap here. The price of using this isto make a small contribution to the Sunshine School for disabled kids.

Lulley's Tackle Shop is upstairs in the Courts building. Youshould wander up here and take a look. This is the oldest fishing shop inBequia, and still used by many of the island's professional fishermen. It has awide range of fishing gear, snorkeling gear, and knives. They carry the reallyheavy commercial gear as well as sporting equipment. They have a vast variety oflures and you can get ready-made tackle, that is very easy to use, as well asrods. They can advise you about which lures catch which fish.

Maxwell Stowe's Max Marine [VHP: 68] is in town behind thePorthole. It is a full sales and service agent for Mariner Out-boards andcarries chandlery, including charts, flags, resins, paints, cleaners, and somehardware. Maxwell can arrange for the repair of any kind of outboard, and he isan agent for the popular AB Inflatables. He is also linked to Island Water Worldand can bring in anything from their catalogue.

Caribbean Diesel, behind the church, is not only a greatplace to sort out your engine problem, but also an interesting small chandlery.The place is packed with a stock of mechanical-related and general chandlery,including epoxies, pumps, lights, safety gear, and much more.

If it is wood you need, Caribbean Woods sells South Americanhardwoods and will soon be able to provide you with small pieces for a particular job.

For general hardware, check out Bequia Venture.

Tyrone Caesar at Caribbean Diesel [VHP: 68] is a first-ratediesel mechanic. He spent nine years as an engineer on cargo carriers, thenseveral more working in Miami for many large organizations, including Cummins.His experience covers all sizes of engines, from giants to lightweights. He isagent for Perkins and Northern Lights Generators and he also knows DetroitDiesels, GM's, and Yanmars particularly well. He can bring in most parts inthree days or less ~ many by the next day. Tyrone is good at basic electricaltrouble-shooting, and knows when to pass the job on. He can also arrange forrefrigeration repairs. Tyrone's workshop is behind the church. Ask Tyrone alsoabout sports fishing and powerboat charters. These are run by Tyrone's bother Donny, who liveson a yacht and is a good paint and varnish man. He is also happy to look afteryachts when people go away.

Vilton's Marine Services is the main outboard repair stationin Bequia. He fixes all types and will also repair other two'Stroke engines,pumps, and most small mechanical devices. Vilton also does good stainlesswelding and charges batteries.

GYE is owned by Oscar, of Oscar's Machine shop in St.Vincent. Oscar has an excellent machine shop, with full machining, milling andturning gear, and he can fix just about anything, as well as welding stainlessand aluminum. Oscar is also near Verrol Nichols of Nichols Marine, the starterand alternator magician (he will fix anything and send it back looking likenew). So you can arrange to leave work for either of these specialists at GYE.

Just down the road from Wallace &. Co you will find Peterof Fixman Marine Engineering [VHP: 16], and Dudley. Peter sailed here fromNorway with Maryanne on Fredag, a large boat they built themselves.

After years of adventure and misadventure, including asinking and two dismastings, Peter seems to have found his metier fixing otherpeople's problems rather than sailing into his own. He deals with all kinds ofmechanical and electrical problems. Dudley is a spray paint specialist and isbest known for imaginative, exotic designs.

Handy Andy is a first-rate two-part polyurethane spraypainter. Talk to him about a new topsides job. It may be easiest to haul out forthe work.

There are four places for sail and canvas work, all good.Three of them are on the road close by Bequia Marina.

Grenadines Sails is owned by Avell Davis, a Bequian who hasspent years making sails in Bequia and Canada. Avell is the North Sailsrepresentative and works with Andrew Dove out of Guadeloupe to get you a fastquote for a new North Sail. Avell has a wide range of experience, fromtraditional handmade sails (he trained under Lincoln Simmonds) to modernhigh-tech ones. New awnings, covers, and alterations can easily be done in theloft.

Bequia Canvas [VHP: 68] does just about everything but sails:interior and exterior cushions, awnings, boat covers, dinghy covers, barbecuecovers. It is an efficient operation run by Chris Lochner from Germany. Theykeep a wide range of materials, including closed-cell foam. Go to their shopnext to Wallace's fishing tackle store; while here you might find just the totebag or ditty hanger you have been looking for. You can also call them on theradio and arrange for Chris to come to your yacht to discuss the job.

Withfield Sails and Model Boats is another good sail andcanvas shop in the same area. Withfield does everything from repairing sails tonew canvas and cushion work, and even car tops. He is also the Bequia agent forDoyle Sails, and will quote you for new sails through Doyle. He will be there tomake sure they fit and set correctly. He also sells lovely model boats, both hisown and those of others. There are always plenty on display and custom modelscan be built.

Alick [VHP: 68] is in Port Elizabeth, on back street, adjoining his wife's food store, IslandTreasure. They are not too far from the town dinghy dock. Alick is local,low key, personable, thorough, and reasonably priced. You can ask him about newsails, awnings, cushions and covers. Alick (who also trained under LincolnSimmonds) is an excellent man to tackle that devilish splice in one of those newropes. He will even show you how to do it. At his store he keeps a big stock offabrics, foams, and webbing which you can buy for your own project. Contact himon VHP: 68, or walk in.

Bequia also has many shipwrights and carpenters.

Nowadays Bequia has become quite a good place to stock up onprovisions. Doris Fresh Foods [VHP: 68/16] is a complete small air-conditionedsupermarket where you will find excellent meat and cheese, good wines, localchutney, gourmet items including smoked fish, and some fresh produce. Bakedgoodies include hearty Russian bread, which tastes good and keeps well, making it popular with those setting out to sea. Fresh Frenchbread is baked daily, as are croissants during the season. One of my favoriteshere is the delicious packets of frozen conch and callaloo soup.

Euroshopper [VHP: 68] is on the road just above theFrangipani Hotel (just walk out to the main road and you will find it). Theyoffer many bargains (two for one) on canned goods. You can buy most everythingwholesale if you want, and they keep a first-rate selection of frozen Americanmeats, French and other cheeses, creams and deli items. They plan to add freshproduce. Eardly Simmons, the manager, is helpful, and they will deliver to thedock, or even to your boat, with their new tender. The tender keeps a stock ofbeers, soft drinks and bottled water on board, and they are on call all day.Radio if you need some (Euroshopper Tender). Euroshopper can arrange a fullprovisioning service.

Select Wines, next to the Bistro, has a well-organized andlarge selection of wines, soft drinks, beers, cheeses, meats, French bread, andlots of specialty items like chocolate-covered hazelnuts. In addition, they have a fairselection of regular canned and dried foods. They"open from about 0800 to2200, so it is almost never too late to shop.

Noeline Taylor's Shoreline mini-mar' ket is associated withher Porthole restaurant, so you can shop from early in the morning to late atnight. If you see it closed, just ask in the restaurant and Noeline will open itfor you. You can pull your dinghy up on the beach just outside, making itconvenient for carrying cases of beer. It is well stocked with most things,including wine, French baguettes, and whole-wheat bread baked daily. Shorelinecloses on Sunday, but if you need to provision you can always call and they willopen it for you.

Knights is the regular local supermarket, where you will findmost essentials. Next door, Whitfield's Cafe is a great establishment wherebaker Dwight Thomas sells an elegant range of fresh breads, includingsoughdough, focaccia, Italian and plain baguettes, and baked goodies such ascroissants, pain au chocolat, Danish, and quiches. Call him in advance forcharter quantities, fresh or frozen.

Bequia Foodstore is just behind the Courts building andoffers a good selection of canned and dry goods. It is open daily from0800-2000, making it convenient for late shopping.

Island Treasure on the back street is run by Selma, wife ofsailmaker Alick. She specializes in local food ~ roots, fruits, vegetables, ice,local jams, and chutneys. She sells ice and will make photocopies or send faxes.Her prices are excellent.

You can also buy fruit and vegetables in the new marketblock. The selection is good, but high-pressure Rasta salesmanship and theirstrident demand that you buy a few items from each vendor has driven most localsand regulars to Doris, Island Treasure, or the quieter stalls you will finddotted around the main street. (Check out the notice painted on the wall of themarket.)

The Gingerbread Cafe has baked goods, coffee, wine, caviar,and gourmet items. Maranne's has yogurt and homemade ice cream.

The waterfront in Port Elizabeth is colorful, with vendorsselling t-shirts, model boats, and handicrafts. You will see Maryanne, whoseWhyknot rope work is displayed in the back of an old landrover.

The building of model boats has been a Bequia specialty forgenerations. They will build any design to order, but all-time favorites are themodel whaling boats, both full and half models. They are artfully built andbeautifully painted. Check out Withfield's, close to Tradewinds Yacht Club.Withfield is both a sailmaker and model boat builder. You can also find modelsat Mauvin's near the market, or at Sargeant's. More recently, Kingsley took thecoconut boat tradition to the level of real artistry with his glossy coconutboats ~ you will see them in some boutiques, or at his own studio inland. Youwill find attractive local handmade clothing in Daphne's Restaurant, where shedoes her own hand screening.

Bequia has a large range of small, pleasant boutiques. Thenew market has its own dinghy dock. Many shops here sell t-shirts, souvenirs, and gifts, and there is an ice cream shop and abar.

Solana's is packed with the largest collection of handpainted t-shirts, shorts and batik work, as well as handicrafts, film, jewelry,books, videos, flags, phone cards and maps. Solana's is also the Federal Expressagent, and they sell digicell cards. Buy second hand books here and the moneygoes to help local children. They also have a lovely house forrent overlooking Tony Gibbons Beach.

The Bequia Bookshop is well laid out and spacious, with anexcellent range of nautical books and charts, local books, videos, and novels.They also sell film, postcards, and art by local artists, including the popularCaron Nichols. Scrimshaw, locally handcrafted by Sam McDowell, is on display, as are sailors'valentines made by his wife.

Island Things, by the church, has a wide range of clothing,souvenirs, crafted household items and books, all locally made and someunavailable in the other shops.

In the new Shoreline Plaza there are a bunch of small shopsboth upstairs and down. Downstairs, Lina's bakes baguettes in their oven in theshop. The smell is irresistible.

In a spacious upstairs location, Local Color has both a goodcollection of clothing and a fair selection of handicrafts.

As you wander toward the Frangipani on the waterfront path,you pass Noah's Arkade with a wide range of Caribbean crafts, spices,handicrafts, and local books, as well as some casual wear. Melinda is a well-known artist; you can see some of her stained glassmemorial windows in the Anglican church. Noah's Arkade is the only shop inBequia that sells Melinda's handmade stained glass and her hand-paintedt-shirts.

Along the waterfront, the Whaleboner Boutique offers handmadeclothing from screened and batik fabrics; they also sell shorts and local modelboats.

By the time you've seen all these shops and walked to theGreen Boley you will probably need a break. Stop at Maranne's and try some ofher famous gourmet ice cream, frozen yogurt, or sorbet. Everything is home-madefrom fresh ingredients, with local fruit flavors unobtainable elsewhere in theworld. Right next door, the Green Boley Boutique has colorful applique pictures,locally made clothes, and souvenirs.

The waterfront offers a wonderful mixture of bars andrestaurants. The Frangipani Hotel [$A-B, VHP: 68, closed September] is owned bySon Mitchell, ex- prime minister of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, and has beenin his family since the turn of the century. The upper floor of the mainbuilding used to be the family home and downstairs was the storehouse for theGloria Colita, which, at 131 feet long, was the largest schooner ever to bebuilt in Bequia. In 1940, she disappeared and was found drifting empty in theBermuda triangle. Today the Frangipani is ably managed by Son's daughter,Sabrina, and Marie. By day it is a good place to meet people and enjoy a greatfresh tuna sandwich for lunch. By night they offer romantic candlelight dinnersof Caribbean specialties. Everyone comes by on a Thursday night when they have abarbecue and jump up to a steel band. They also have music on Mondays in season.

Mac's Pizzeria [$C-D] is everyone's favorite haunt. Their tasty pizzas are legendary amongyachtspeople, with many choices including lobster pizza. You can also getquiches, salads, soups and goodies from their bakeshop, along with dailyspecials. The atmosphere is congenial, and it is inexpensive enough that you cangravitate here any time you do not feel like cooking. In season it is essentialto make a reservation for dinner as they get very booked up. They also dotakeout.

Jacques is a Frenchman who spent years running the bestrestaurant in St. Vincent and is now on the waterfront in Bequia with hisAuberge des Grenadines [$B-C]. During the lobster season Jacques & Eileenkeep a large live lobster tank full in the front of their restaurant. They gofrom tank to plate in a matter of a few minutes, and it does not get fresher.Jacques has specialized in lobster for years and you should expect them to bedone perfectly. You can also get excellent French and Creole food here, as wellas good rotis and light lunches. The seafood plate is fabulous. Come for happyhour, 1730-1830, and check it out. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, Jacques brings in a good local group forafter-dinner entertainment.

There are plenty of first-rate places to get inexpensivelocal food. The Hinkson's Whaleboner [$C-D] is conveniently situated next to theFrangipani and has its own dinghy dock. Much of the food comes from their farm,so you know it is fresh. True to its name, the bar, stools, and entrance haveall been built of whalebone from the old whaling days. They moved their baroutside, which has proved popular. Angela will cook good snacks, pizzas,chicken, and fish. They also do full evening meals at a reasonable price,including curried and roast pork. The meat comes from their own hand-raisedanimals. Chicken and fish are always available, as is lobster in season. Comefor the daily happy hour (1700-1800) and enjoy entertainment on Monday andFriday nights with occasional music on other days.

Pat Mitchell's Gingerbread [VHP: 68, $B-C] is a sociable andentertaining evening rendezvous. The impressive Caribbean-style buildingfeatures highly intricate gingerbread trim and an immensely high wooden roofsupported by mast-like poles. The spacious upstairs dining room has a grandharbor view. The atmosphere is enlivened by good un-amplified groups on Sundays.The food is delicious, with curries a specialty. Reservations are advisable inseason, or stop in for a drink. The Gingerbread is also open for breakfast. Atlunchtime you can get soups, salads, and sandwiches upstairs, or barbecue itemsoutside under the trees. The coffee shop sells coffee and baked goodies.

Noeline Taylor's Porthole [VHP: 68, $C-D] is a popularmeeting place for breakfast, morning coffee, lunch roti, an afternoon beer, or arelaxing dinner. Noeline always has local fresh juices and a large menu, witheverything from snacks to freshly caught fish. All these are available for lunchand dinner. Check out the menu posted outside showing the daily specials.Entertainment is usually on Wednesdays and Sundays. Noeline has the biggestbookswap in Bequia, so you often see people browsing though the selection. There is a very nominal charge that enablesNoeline to keep the books in good order. Let Noeline know before you do yourswap.

Nigel and Andre's The Salty Dog [$D] has a classic pubatmosphere in air-conditioned comfort, with some outside seating. You will finda pool table, a darts board, and big screen TVs for sports. They open every dayfrom 0700 till late, and on Saturday nights they usually have a DJ or live band.On the food side, they arrive early to prepare for the day and will serve a fullbreakfast if you ask. Their lunch specials are tremendous value if you like yourbig meal at midday; if not, they do sandwiches, salads, and snacks, includingtheir cup of crab. In the evenings they specialize in prime US steaks, alongwith ribs, fish, and shrimps. Try happy hour between 1700-1800. The Salty Dogstays open late, after the others fold.

Maria's Cafe [VHP: 68, $D] is upstairs on Front Street, witha large open balcony that overlooks life below and the harbor. Manager Neishaorganizes a hearty and inexpensive local lunch ~ they have a different menu for eachday of the week so you can stop by and see what takes your fancy. In the eveningthey do a buffet dinner. Pizzas and snacks are also available.

Handy Andy, owner of the building, is planning a florist, DVDrental, and a 50-seat theater.

The Bistro [$C-D] has a perfect location open to the mainstreet. They offer hearty local meals, pizzas and hamburgers, as well as localfish, shrimps, and lobster. It is also a great place to enjoy a few drinks or acup of coffee and watch the world pass by.

Colombo's [$D] cooks excellent pizza and pasta, and theirlasagna is great (you can buy it by the tray for a party). They are open0900-1500 and 1700-2200.

Tantie Pearl's [VHP: 68, $B-C] is an aerobic 5- to 7-minutewalk up a steep hill behind the cemetery. The restaurant is perched on the edgeof a steep slope with a bird's eye view of the harbor. Tantie Pearloffers good local food.

If you have time to plan ahead, call Daphne's [VHP: 68, $C]and discuss a special local meal with Daphne Grant, one of Bequia's reallygood cooks and whose meals have an individual flair. Daphne's is a great placeto go in a small group. You can also drop in for a lunchtime roti. Other localrestaurants include Lyston Williams' Green Boley [$D], the best value for rotis,snacks and local meals;'Isola Mclntosh's Julie's Guest House [VHP: 68, $C],where advance booking is necessary; and KD's for lunch, snacks and bakedgoodies.

For upscale gourmet cooking, visit Le Petit Jardin [VHP:16/68, $A-B], owned by Owen Belmar from Bequia. Owen has returned to his nativeBequia after years as a chef on huge corporate charter yachts. He studied at theCulinary Institute in the U.S., but his ability to produce wonderfulmelt-in-the-mouth delicacies to rival those of any French chef is unquestionablya gift. The food is served in an appropriately quiet, simple, and slightlyformal setting in a house of natural stone and varnished wood, which has agarden of herbs and fruit trees. Le Petit Jardin is open for both lunch anddinner. Reservations are advisable. For a long time Owen had his own recipesection in the Caribbean Compass.

On the north side of the harbor, the Tradewinds Yacht Clubrestaurant will become a new Basil's by next season.

Behind the slipway is the Sailors Cafe [VHP: 68, $C-D]. OwnerElfic Grant, a.k.a The Singing Chef, is entertaining and runs a good cleanestablishment. You can drop in for soup and some good Chinese fried rice or chowmein. For more elaborate (but still very reasonably priced) fare you need tobook in advance. The bar makes a pleasant hangout and there is also a pool-room.

These are just the restaurants in Admiralty Bay. There arealso good restaurants in other places, and taxi fares are reasonable ($12-20 EC)

Spring on Bequia [VHP: 68, $B] is both a hotel and a workingestate. They grow most of their own produce. They are open from about Novembertill June and are famous as a peaceful hideaway resort. Candy, the owner, workson the menus and they have a reputation for delicious food, but you must callthem up and book in advance. (If you cannot get them on VHP: 68, ask a Bequiataxi to relay for you.) It is a pleasant walk ~ about a mile ~ in the cool ofthe evening to work up your appetite for dinner. Spring on Bequia is also famousfor Sunday curry lunches, and during the season they run a beach bar on SpringBeach.

Sugar Hill [VHP: 68, $C-D] is in a delightful spot in MountPleasant, just at the top of the hill, with splendid views down both sides of the island. It is a good, but not unreasonable,walk up and a pleasant walk down. You can also take a cab up. Sugar Hill is runby Jasmine and Stanley and caters mainly to locals, though they welcomevisitors. They serve good local food at very reasonable prices, and Saturdaynight is popular as they then offer Creole food at a special price.

The Old Fort [VHP: 68/73, $A] is up in the cool hills of Mt.Pleasant. It has a perfectly peaceful away-from-the-sea feel. The wonderfulviews make it a favored destination for hikers by day. At night, atmosphere istheir strong point, with a fire in the dining room hearth and lots ofcandlelight.

Lower Bay has one of Bequia's best beaches, set in a low-key,rural atmosphere of fishing boats and drying nets. Great for swimming by dayand romantic on a full-moon night, it is a popular place to hang out, especiallyon Sunday. Recently people have begun to gravitate there of an evening forinexpensive seafood dinners. Lower Bay makes an acceptable anchorage in settledconditions and is within dinghy reach of Admiralty Bay. However, there isusually enough swell to make landing on the beach a damp affair, so it is betterto take a cab over ($12-15 EC). By day it is interesting to follow the trackfrom the Sunny Caribbee over the bluff to Tony Gibbons Beach, then go over thenext bluff to Lower Bay. Once you arrive there are several local restaurants tochoose from. Keegan's [VHP: 68, $C-D], opposite the beach, offers inexpensivethree-course dinners featuring chicken, shrimp, fish, or conch. By day they do fish or chicken 'nchips and snacks. De Reef [VHP: 68, $C-D], right on the beach, is popular forlunch, and is a major gathering place for locals on Sundays. You can getchicken, fish, conch or sandwiches any day of the week. Their hot conch souce isdelicious. By night they serve three-course dinners by reservation, and fromtime to time they bring in a band and throw a wild fete.

Coco's Place [VHP: 68, $B-C] is a special find, way up asteep hill. You can perch up here like a bird with a panoramic view of the baybelow. Coco works wonders with seafood and does excellent Iambi. There are alsomany local meat dishes. The atmosphere is informal and friendly, with jump-upson Tuesdays and Fridays in season. For groups of six to eight they have onedelightful table set in a little Gothic corner tower to the side of thebuilding. For parties of four or more, you can give them a call and they willprovide transportation up.

Dawn, from Bequia, and Willie, from Germany, are a welcomingcouple who have a lovely little hideaway called Dawn's Creole [VHP: 68, $B-C] upin the hills, next to Coco's. It is quiet and pleasant with a panoramic viewover Lower Bay. Dawn and Willie cook good Caribbean seafood. They also have abar on the beach next to De Reef, a great beach hangout with light lunches. Ifyou are looking for somewhere to stay, check their rooms with a view.

The Arts and Crafts Cafe, part bar, part boutique, and parthairdressing salon is run by Emma from the UK and PQ, a Bequia artist andsculptor. Sculptures, painted calabash and macrame jewelry are among the itemson sale. The bar is open nearly all the time and they cook meals to order ~ agood deal for a crew of hungry sailors. Emma, a top professional hairdresserfrom the UK, now carries out her craft in the shade of a tree at reasonableprices. Call 457-3948 for an appointment.

Fernando's Hideaway [$C], run by Anna and Fernando, is simple, low-key and serves good meals of local fish and meat.Fernando is a fisherman and catches the fish himself. Advance reservations arepretty much essential. It is down a back road: take a taxi so you can find iteasily.

Close by Fernando's is Dwight Thompson's Food Basket bakery,a source of fresh breads including soughdough, focaccia, Italian and plainbaguettes, and baked goodies such as croissants, pain au chocolat, Danish, andquiches. Call in advance for charter quantities.

While you are in Lower Bay, visit the home of French artistClaude Victorine. Claude's main medium is painting on silk and she createssuperb cushion covers, wall hangings, and fabrics that are guaranteed to add atouch of class to any boat or home. Paintings are also on show. Claude acceptsvisitors during the day. She is delightful to talk to, and the sight of herpretty little house perched up in the hills is well worth the walk. She closeson Fridays.

Several different companies run ferries over to St. Vincent.The most used is the Admiral, which makes four trips on weekdays and two orthree on weekends: the first ferry normally leaves Bequia at 0630 and the lastreturns at 1900.

You can rent a variety of bikes (pedal or motor scooter) andmechanical mules at Handy Andy's.

Local buses can be useful for getting around the island,especially if you are going down to La Pompe or Paget Farm, both of which canseem like a never-ending walk. Just watch for one and stick out your hand.

Taxis are fairly inexpensive in Bequia and sightseeing is highly recommended. (Checkout some of the attractions in the next section.) If you call a taxi in advance,they can meet you outside the Gingerbread or Frangipani. Most of the taxidrivers are good. There may be one or two who hustle a bit too much. I wouldrecommend two who are very reliable and always straightforward. Gideon has threetaxis, works well with the yachts, and is always listening to VHP: 68. He alsohas four-wheel-drive rentals. Sandra and Curtis Ollivierre have a couple ofbright yellow taxis and some four-wheel drive cars for rent. They listen to VHP:68, and they are always pleasant, punctual and reliable. Sightseeing cab faresfor four people are only about $20 US an hour ~ you can see a lot in an hour,and can cover the whole island in four hours.

There is a travel agency at the Gingerbread called GrenadineTravel [VHP: 16/ 68].

Bequia has lovely walks. You can follow the path from theSunny Caribbee over to Tony Gibbons Beach and on down to Lower Bay. If you lazeon the beach and swim, keep an eye on your handbags and cameras. Don't set themdown and wander away, as they too have been known to walk. Watch a sunset fromMount Pleasant, or walk to Friendship Bay, Spring, or Industry for lunch ordinner and enjoy the great variety of views along the way.

You will find Bequia is far more than the waterfront. Thehills of Mount Pleasant are almost like another world. If you are not inclinedto walk, take a cab one way or both. You can see all the best and most scenicspots in a leisurely 3-hour tour. Each place you visit seems so different thatsometimes Bequia feels like several islands in one. Highlights include an oldfort looking over the harbor, Bequia's summit, Mount Pleasant, the beautifulwindward beach of Spring, and a visit to the'home of the late AthnealOllivierre, the island's head whale har-pooner, where there is a small whalingmuseum. The taxi drivers are proud of their island, and are knowledgeableguides.

Spring makes an especially good destination on a Sunday whenthey have their famous curry lunch. Check out the pottery when you go. You canhike to Hope, a lovely remote beach where the shallow water sets up long linesof breakers often suitable for bodysurfing (but watch the undertow).

The Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary out at Industry is a greatdestination. Brother King takes turtle eggs and rears turtles till they are oldenough to have a better chance of survival. The establishment of the sanctuaryhas done much to raise environmental consciousness in Bequia. There is a smallcharge ($5 US) to visit, which goes toward the cost of feeding and housing theturtles.

If you just want to visit Spring, Friendship, or Lower Bay,or want to try somewhere different for dinner, hop on a taxi; the island is small so the fares are reasonable.

Tennis courts are available at Spring, Friendship Bay, andGingerbread. If you come at Easter you can get involved in the Bequia Regatta, afour-day extravaganza of local boat races, yacht races, and lots of partying.Christmas is also a popular time in Bequia, but "Nine Mornings," whichstarts some two weeks before Christmas, can make the town anchorage throb withdisco music through the night.

Diving in Bequia is excellent and not to be missed by scubafans. For the uninitiated it is an ideal place for a resort course. There aretwo dive shops in Admiralty Bay.

Dive Bequia is the dive shop near the Gingerbread and isowned by Bob Sachs. Bob Sachs is one of scuba's greatest enthusiasts andBequia's most experienced diver. His instructors Jan and Cathy are very charmingand excellent teachers. Jan is the highest qualified instructor year round inBequia. Call Dive Bequia [VHP: 68/16] and Bob or one of his staff will arrangeto collect you from your yacht. Return to the bar laterto socialize with them and other divers. Their seaworthy dive boatsallow for occasional diving and exploring trips up to the Falls ofBa-leine in St. Vincent or down to the Grenadines.

Dive Bequia also works closely with Canouan DiveCenter, so you can buy packages good anywhere between Bequia and UnionIsland, or start courses at one shop and finish them at the other.

Bequia Dive Adventures [VHP: 68] is on thewaterfront next to Mac's Pizzeria. It is run by Ron, an instructor,and Laury, a master scuba diver trainer, both from Bequia, and Davefrom Minnesota, who joins them during the season. They are a good andexperienced team who operate with small groups and do all levels oftraining from resort course through assistant instructor. Dave is aninstructor's instructor and the most highly rated Padi instructor inBequia. They are a Padi shop and offer all the Padi courses. They arehappy to do boat pick-ups and drop-offs.

Both dive shops have retail sections with snorkeling anddiving gear for sale. Both will help with equipment service or rental and tankfills. For those diving on their own, the most accessible good dives are aroundDevil's Table. There is a pretty reef extending from the black and yellow beaconto the shore. There are moorings so you can tie up your dinghy. From the shallowinshore end you can dive out along one side of the rocky shoal, and back on theother. The depth at the outer end of the reef is about 65 feet. There are plentyof different corals and reef fish. Sergeant majors can often be seen guardingtheir eggs. An even prettier dive is along the stretch of coast from inside thisreef northwards to Northwest Point. There is a sloping reef all along thisshore. The maximum depth is about 60 feet at Northwest Point. Coral formationsinclude lots of pillar coral, and there are usually large schools of bluechromis. Over the sand, garden eels undulate. On both dives you must mind thecurrent.

For more exciting dives you need to go a long way from theanchorage. There is usually a lot of current, so they are best done as driftdives and are most easily accessible by dive boat. Flat Rock Drift Dive is onBequia's northwest coast, starting at the western end of Anse Chemin. This is agentle, easy dive where you hardly have to use your fins and there is time toexamine all the little creatures on the way. You swim along a captivating reefthat slopes gently into sand at 60 feet. It offers an excellent selection ofsoft and hard corals, lots offish, arrow crabs, lobsters, tube worms, andanemones. A couple of spotted snake eels hang out here and you can often see aray.

The Boulders is a pleasant drift dive about two-thirds of theway between Admiralty Bay and Moonhole. A gentle descent 60 feet down a coralslope takes you into an area where hundreds offish, including huge schools ofblue chromis and sennets, make ever-changing patterns as you drift with thecurrent. Barracudas patrol up and down; moray eels, lobsters, crabs and shrimpscan be found. The reef gets deeper till you come to the boulders, which are tallrock formations, each about 20 feet high, starting from a bottom depth of 93feet. There are tunnels to pass through and holes and caverns that providehiding places for nurse sharks, groupers, angelfish and jacks. As you return tothe dive boat, you may see a frogfish or seahorse.

Pigeon Island has beautiful dives. The island slopes offsteeply to around 100 feet. There are walls, overhangs, rifts, and hollowsdecorated by deepwater lace coral. The visibility is generally excellent and you will see hugeschools of blue and brown chromis, big groupers, passing pelagic fish, andsometimes rays and turtles.

The Wall (West Cay, northern side) is an adventure dive downto 114 feet, with dramatic vistas, the odd large pelagic, and lots of greatstuff to examine along the wall on your way up. Moonhole (outside the Moonholecomplex) offers temporary anchorage, though I would leave a crew member onboard. Make sure you are anchored in sand and do not tie to the dive moorings.The easiest dive is to start right in the bay and follow the reef around thepoint to the east, watching for currents. This is a gentle dive to 60 feet, withhard and soft corals and a variety of smaller fish.

The snorkeling is good around Devil's Table and along thecoast to Northwest Point. The dive shops also offers snorkeling trips.

If you are sailing from Admiralty Bay to West Cay, you willundoubtedly catch sight of Moonhole. This rather isolated community, founded bythe late American architect Tom Johnson, is not easily accessible by either landor sea, there being no road or good anchorage. Moonhole houses are certainlydifferent; the original was built under a natural arch known as"Moonhole." It was abandoned when a huge boulder fell from the ceilingand crushed the empty bed.

The other houses grow out of the rocks without straight linesor right angles. They have huge arches, fantastic views, and lovely patios.There is seldom glass in the windows and the breeze is constant; there is noelectricity. Moonhole is a special kind of vacation home for the right people.The architecture is worth marveling at as you sail by. Although Moonhole (VHP:06) is a very private place, Jim and Sheena Johnson do now offer tours (about$40 EC) on demand (prior arrangement only) for groups of five or so. A tourlasts an hour or two and takes you through several houses. (They select thosethat are empty at the time.) You get to visit the original Moonhole and finishat their bar overlooking the sea, where there is time for a drink before goingback. It is probably easiest to get to Moonhole by taxi, but the intrepid candinghy down if there are no northerly swells. Landing takes considerableagility. Bequia's new airport is built along the south coast. There is a fishingdock about a third of a mile to its east off Paget Farm, where in an emergencyyou can get ashore from a tenable, if roily, anchorage.

FRIENDSHIP BAY AND PETIT NEVIS

Friendship Bay, on the south side of Bequia, is gorgeous,with a lovely white beach. The anchorage is secure, with good holding, and intimes of northerly swells it offers better protection than Admiralty Bay. Asmall swell often creeps in from the southeast, but you can cut the roll with asecond anchor from the stern to keep you into the swells.

A reef extends from the shore to Semplers Cay and beyond.Don't try to sail in or out that way, as some have. On the opposite side of theharbor there is a reef extending out a fair way from Hilaire Point (locallycalled "Hillary"). Keep in the center of the channel. Once inside, anchor in the eastof the bay or off the Friendship Bay Resort beach bar. Note that a reef extendsfrom the west side of the Friendship Bay Resort dock to a small breakwater nearthe beach bar.

The Friendship Bay Resort [VHP: 68, $A-B] has the air of arather grand hotel, with lovely gardens and a cute "swing seat" beachbar called Mosquito. Cocktails, lunch, and informal dinners are served here andas an alternative there is a panoramic glass-lined dining room. The view ofPetit Nevis and Isle de Quatre is spectacular. It is run by Swedes Lars andMargit Abrahamson. The dock has been renovated and is now lit up at night with adinghy platform. Some dock space is available with both 110- and 120-voltelectricity. Water is available by request. They offer telephone and faxcommunications and they sell cube ice, bread, and beer and can sometimes helpout with other items. The food is excellent; a blend of Swedish, French andlocal flavors, with plenty of seafood and lobster in season. Wednesday night islobster barbecue night in season, with live entertainment; they also have entertainment weekends.

You can work off the calories on their tennis court orunderwater with their dive shop. Special rates for yachtspeople are available inthe hotel when there are vacancies.

Over near Friendship Cottages, La Pompe International Bar hasa good selection of basic groceries, a pool table, Sunday evening videos, andthe world's hottest domino tournament. This is the place to meet the localfishermen and whalers.

The best snorkeling in Friendship Bay is between Semplers Cayand the shore. You can also try the reef along the shore between the FriendshipBay Resort dock and Mosquito beach bar.

PETIT NEVIS

Petit Nevis makes an interesting daytime anchorage. Thesnorkeling along the shore is good (though out of the lee the current getsstrong) and the old whale rendering facilities make interesting exploring. Ifpassing southward, note the long southerly reef.

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