Введите условия поиска Отправить форму поиска на сайте все яхты Web

PASSAGE BETWEEN MARTINIQUE AND ST. LUCIA

Northbound

The passage from St. Lucia to Fort de France is usually afast reach. A course of due north from Rodney Bay gets you close to the leecoast. It doesn't hurt to be a little offshore when you arrive as the wind tendsto follow along the coast and is fluky close in. If Martinique is visible at theoutset, it will appear as two islands, because the low-lying land in the centeris not visible from St. Lucia. As you approach Martinique, Diamond Rock standsout as a clear landmark.

If you are heading for Ste. Anne, you can often makeit in one tack, but be sure to head up a bit to allow for current as youcross.

The southerly passage from Anse D'Arlet is sometimes apleasant reach. At other times it can be hard on the wind. As the windflows round the land, you will be pointing high as you follow the coast.It often pays to motor sail to stay reasonably close to shore beforesetting off across the channel. If sailing, it may pay to sail fast on thesoutherly tack and hope to play lifts liter. When you see St. Lucia, headfor the highest (rather rounded) mountain in the north end of the islanduntil you make out the distinctive shape of Pigeon Island, a clear doublepeak joined by a slope. The higher twin mounds of Mt. Pimard and Mt.Flambeau (see Rodney Bay chart) also sometimes stand out.

The sail from Ste. Anne to St. Lucia is usually ar easyreach.

St. Lucia has customs offices in Rodney Bay, Castries,Marigot Bay, Soufriere, and Vieux Fort. The entry charges in $EC are as follows;All yachts pay $15 navigational aids, $10 practique (up to 100 tons), andclearance fees of: $5 for under 40 feet and $ 15 for over 40 feet. In addition,yachts on charter that are less than 40 feet pay $20; between 40 and 70 feet,$30; and over 70 feet, $40. If you are staying less than three days, you canclear in and out on arrival on the same form. (See also P. 166)

You can get permission for stays up to six months from theimmigration officer on arrival. Those clearing outside of normal office hours (weekdays0800-1215, 1330-1545) will be charged a reasonable overtime fee. Customs willask you where you want to visit. If you include Rodney Bay, Marigot, Soufriere,and Hewanorra, that covers most of the anchorages in this guide.

St. Lucia has strict environmental laws; spearfishing,damaging corals, buying coral, turtle shell products, or out-of-season lobsters(lobstering season is 31st October to 31st April) are strictly forbidden.Fishing without a license is forbidden. Sports-fishing boats must have a license,but sailing yachts are generally allowed to troll a line or handline forpleasure. No scuba diving (except for underwater work on your yacht) may be donewithout a qualified guide. Pets are not allowed ashore. Fines are severe.

Jan 1 and 2 Easter Friday through Monday. March 25-28, 2005 and April 14-17, 2006 Feb 22, Independence Day May 1, Labor Day WhitMonday (May 16, 2005 & June 5, 2006) Corpus Christi (May 26, 2005 & June 15, 2006)

In St. Lucia, most shops open 0830-1230, then 1330-1600.Saturday is a half day, and most places close by noon. Banks close by 1500except Friday, when they open till 1700.

There are card phones all over the island. You buy phonecards in selected shops. For the USA & NANP countires dial 1 + lOdigits (seep.19). For other overseas calls, dial Oil + country code + number. For operatorcalls, dial 0. For ATT you can try 1-800-872-2881. When dialing from overseas,the area code is 758 followed by a 7-digit number.

Inexpensive ($1.50-$7 EC) buses run to most towns andvillages. If you are going a long way, check on the time of the last returningbus. Taxis are plentiful. Sample taxi rates for 1-4 are: $EC

Rodney Bay to Vigie 50

Rodney Bay to Castries 50

Rodney Bay to Hewanorra 170

Castries to Hewanorra 150

Castries to Marigot 60

Short ride 15

Day Tour 400

Extra charges after 2200 and before 0600 and for more than 4 people.

There are plenty of rental cars. You need to get a temporarylocal license at $54 EC.

Airport departure tax is $54 EC

St. Lucia, the largest of the English speaking Windwards, ismountainous and lush, with many beautiful white sand beaches. Tropicalrainforest covers the steep slopes of the center and gives way tocultivated agricultural land around the more moderately sloping coastal fringe.Bananas are the principal crop. For sheer physical beauty, the area aroundSoufriere and the Pitons is outstanding.

St. Lucia offers excellent sightseeing and hiking. You cansee most of it by taxi, bus, or rental car. Adventurous travelers willing tocombine driving with hiking will want to rent a 4-wheel drive vehicle andexplore some faraway corners like Grand Anse or Anse Louvet on the windwardshore. Any taxi driver will be delighted to take you on a tour, or you can joinorganized tours through most travel agents. Popular routes are; round the island,plantation tours, where you get to see the backbone of the St. Lucia economy atwork, and rainforest tours, where you hike across the middle of the island. Those interested^ in nature shouldcontact the National Trust, which runs tours to Frigate Island and the MariaIslands as well as turtle watches. It is also worth calling the forestrydepartment about rainforest tours. They can supply knowledgeable guides.

When planning your tour, consider Mamiku Gardens. They lie onthe east coast at Mon Repos, between Dennery and Micoud (about halfway betweenCastries and Vieux Fort). These 15-acre gardens have been beautifully planned,with open spaces, winding narrow paths, and several hidden surprises includingsome ruins and hideaway seats. Included are forest trails, medicinal herbs, anda banana plantation, as well as decorative plants. The plants are numbered, andyou pick up a key when you pay your entrance fee. It would be easy to lose a fewhours here. It is probably worth calling and making sure a cruise ship tour isnot expected on the day you want to go.

Fox Grove Inn, owned by Esther and Franz, is a nearby lunchspot, which overlooks Mamiku Gardens from higher on the hill. It is a greatplace to come and relax for a meal, or to spend a few days in the country.

There are many marked trails in St. Lucia you can follow onyour own, including rainforest hikes at the height of land as you drive acrossthe island on the main road to the airport.

St. Lucia is well developed and offers an excellent fullservice marina with haul out facilities and a large choice of restaurants andshoreside activities. St. Lucia is a charter center, with charter companies inRodney Bay and Marigot Bay.

Keats Compton is the first director of a new MarineIndustries Association of St. Lucia (MIASL). You can contact them over anyyachting issues.

Between the northern tip of St. Lucia and Rodney Bay, thereare several shoals and no anchorages, so it is best to keep clear.

Rodney Bay offers several anchorages that are dealt with indetail below.

Barrel of Beef is a low-lying rock about a quarter of a mileoff the southern side of the entrance to Rodney Bay. It is marked by a whitelight that flashes every five seconds. The water is deep enough (about 18 feet)for most yachts to pass inside it.

Between Barrel of Beef and Castries, the coast sweeps back ina large bay containing Rat Island. This bay is full of reefs and shoals and isbest avoided. On leaving Rodney Bay, the normal route is to pass inside Barrelof Beef and head directly toward Castries Harbor.

Tapion Rock forms the southern entrance to Castries Harbor.There are some rocks close by, so give it a reasonable clearance. Two milessouth of Castries, Cul de Sac Bay is a huge depot for Hess Oil. It is well litand makes an obvious landmark by day or night. There is a flashing buoy in themiddle of the entrance to this bay.

From Cul de Sac Bay to the Pitons, St. Lucia is mainlysteep-to, and a quarter of a mile offshore clears all dangers. There are a fewrock hazards lying up to 100 yards or more offshore. The worst is a sizable rockpatch off the southern end of Anse Chastanet that should be given wide clearance.

Rodney Bay is over a mile long. At the northern end, anartificial causeway connects Pigeon Island to the mainland, providing the baywith protection. In the old days, when Europeans used to entertain themselves bysailing around in wooden boats taking potshots at each other, Pigeon Island wasthe main base for the British navy in this area. It was ideally situated, beingin sight (on most days) of Martinique, the French main base. There used to be afort, hospital buildings, barracks, and storerooms. Now the St. Lucia NationalTrust conserves it as a delightful park. There are shady gardens, and the forthas been partly restored. The climb to the top of both peaks is well rewarded bythe views. Strategically placed signboards tell you about the history. Near thecauseway, the old officers' barracks have been rebuilt to house a newinterpretation center.

There is a small entry charge to the park. This helps financethe National Trust, which works to preserve the environment as well as historicsites. The anchorage off Pigeon Island is good.

By the park dinghy dock you will find Jambe de Bois [$D], adelightful restaurant/ bar, cyber-coffee shop, and art gallery run by BarbaraTipson, an active member of the local animal-welfare organization, which oftenhelps place unwanted animals. Jambe de Bois is slightly offbeat with an artyatmosphere where you can catch up on email, browse the web, and enjoy local art.It makes a great hangout, with comfy corners and breezy spots outside. Jambe deBois opens daily from 0900-2100, except Tuesdays, when they close at 1700. You have to pay the park entry feesup to 1700. The restaurant does a late breakfast as well as lunch and dinner.Fresh fruit juice is available along with many daily specials and snacks.Outside the lagoon, to the south of the channel entrance, is Reduit Beach, oneof St. Lucia's finest beaches and the home of the St. Lucian Hotel and the St.Lucia Yacht Club. Out near Pigeon Island on the causeway, the bright blue roofsof an all-inclusive hotel make a good landmark.

Rodney Bay Lagoon is a large and completely protected innerlagoon that is entered via a dredged channel between Reduit Beach and Gros Isletvillage. This is lit by port and starboard lights at the entrance and by rangelights that make an excellent aid to good night sight. Approach the channel inthe center. The channel is dredged to 15 feet, gradually reducing to 12 feet upto Rodney Bay Marina. However, it can silt up between dredgings. Our soundingsin 2004 showed the shallowest depths to be in the form of a sandbar outside the beginning of the channel, soif you got over the bar you would make it into the marina with no problem. Igot soundings of 10 to 11 feet on the bar. If you draw 10 feet or more, call theMarina or Port Authority for the latest depths or, better still, sound thechannel yourself. You also have about 18 inches of tide, which can helpconsiderably. Re-dredging is quite likely, so if your boat is deep, don't be putoff, just be cautious.

Many yachts tie up at a marina. Otherwise, the three main anchorages in thearea are: to the southeast of Pigeon Island, off Reduit Beach, orinside the lagoon. While the lagoon has been dredged to 12 feet up to the marina,other parts are mainly 7-8 feet, with shallower areas. Moorings are planned forwithin the lagoon. This should help make visiting more secure, as the fees willhelp pay for security guards to patrol the moorings area. An added benefit isthat is saves the problem of removing Rodney Bay mud (some of the stickiest inthe Caribbean) from your ground tackle. Once the moorings are in place, therewill be no other anchoring in the lagoon. Anticipated charges are in the regionof $ 10 US a night and allow you take your garbage to the skip in the marina.The outside beach anchorages occasionally become untenable in northerly swells.Anywhere within acoustic range of Gros Islet beach can be noisy (more so out in Rodney Bay than in the lagoon).

Rodney Bay is the hub of tourist activities, with many hotels,malls, restaurants, and an 18-hole golf course nearby.

Rodney Bay Marina is a port of entrance and a good place toclear in. If you plan to stay in the marina, go into a berth (see below) andwalk down to the customs office. If you plan to anchor, clear in at the marinaby using the customs slip, which is opposite the customs office. It is abouthalfway down the outer dock and marked by a yellow post. If you are too deep toenter the lagoon, you can anchor outside and dinghy in.

Customs are normally open Saturday to Thursday from 0800 to1600 and on Fridays 0800 to 1800. Overtime charges apply on weekends and duringout-of-office hours (0800-1600). Entry charges are $30-40 EC, depending on thesize of boat, with extra fees if you are on charter. Details of fees are givenat the beginning of this chapter. Only the skipper may come ashore to clear. Allother crew must stay on the yacht till clearance is complete.

Shipping in parts? Note that invoices and all shipping papersmust be marked "for transshipment." Even though items are duty free,there may be some charges for documentation. Everything is much easier now thanit was a couple of years ago, but it is much easier to use an agent. Lisa Kessel,the wife of Chris, the surveyor, is a good broker who specializes in clearancefor yachts.

You can use Rodney Bay Marina as a postal drop and send faxes.USA-direct telephone lines and several public card and coin phones makecommunications easy.

Wherever you choose to anchor, there will be an email stationclose by. In the marina CTL [VHF: 16] offers an excellent email and fax serviceas well as a bank of phones for overseas calls. They have a highspeed internetconnection, and in addition, you can use their copier and laminating machine.Next door you can rent one of their cars, unlimited mileage, and they are usedto dealing with yachts. They open daily 0800-1800.

Phil's Internet and Business Center, part of Keyway Realty, is close by the dinghy landing for JQMall. They offer a bank of computers with high-speed internet connections, dofaxes and international calls, as well as scanning, printing, etc. They openweekdays 0830-2030, weekends 0900-2100.

Out in Pigeon Island, Jambe de Bois has an internet station,and Scuttlebutts offers free internet for their customers. During office hours,the office center at Harmony Apartel has an internet station.

GSM outlets are: ATT in the JQ mall, Digicell in Gros Iletindustrial estate, and Cable and Wireless in the marina.

Rodney Bay Marina [VHP: 16] is a pleasant place to stay, wellprotected from the elements amid lawns and coconut palms, dockside restaurants,and cafes. It is home to a business community that includes two banks, marineservices, a food store, boutiques, and a massage therapist, and many taxidrivers as well as a well-stocked, duty-free chandlery. A few charter companiesare based here. These businesses are friendly, and for many yachting folk,Rodney Bay Marina has became their home-away-from-home in the Caribbean,creating a sense of community.

It has achieved this state over the last few years undergeneral manager Cuthbert Didier, who is also involved with regional associationsand has done several yachting surveys for the UN up and down the islands.Cuthbert sees the big picture and is helpful and knowledgeable. If you areplanning to stay a long time in the marina and have any problems with customs orimmigration, discuss it with him.

The marina has 230 berths, and there is usually room, thoughit can be packed during when the Arc arrives in mid-December. Call for a dockspace and, if you cannot get through, choose a spot and hope for the best. Theoutside of "A" dock has easier access and is the only space suitablefor really large yachts. Dock services include ample water and electricity(220-volt, 50-cycle; transformers for 110 volts can be arranged) and cable TV.Hot showers are a pleasant feature, and the garbage disposal includes a special placefor used engine oil. The management offers special deals for the hurricaneseason; ask in the office.

If you need a technician or help with varnishing, ask at themain desk; they will put you in contact with independent contractors. You canbuy block ice, get your laundry done, and fill all kinds of LPG gas tanks atSuds Laundry down by the A dock.

Rodney Bay Marina offers repeat customers 10 percent discount,and they have docks for sale.

A convenient bus to town runs from outside the marina, and aplethora of restaurants and a golf course are close by.

Rodney Bay Marina Boatyard [VHP: 68] is part of the marina.It is St. Lucia's best haul-out facility, with a 50-ton yacht hoist and room forabout 120 yachts in long-term storage and another 20 having work done on them. A10-boat work dock makes lifting and working on engines easy, and masts can belifted. The marina will haul, chock, and look after the yachts, but independentcontractors do all the work.

The marina will put you in touch with people who dofiberglass, woodwork, painting, and general maintenance (such as marine plumbingor changing chainplates). A gelcoat-stripper is available for osmosis jobs. Here,too, is the fuel dock. Duty-free fuel is available for anyone who has clearedout. Just show your papers.

Apart from the marina, Waterside Landings is an intimate,quiet, and pleasant docking facility with about 15 berths in the inner part ofthe lagoon. They have water, electricity, and cable TV, but no other services.Round-the-world sailor Nick Bowden manages it, and he keeps it fairly full.Several regulars would berth nowhere else. Some days turn into abring-it-your-self barbecue on the lawn as a get-together for those in themarina.

Greg Glace's dock is south of the marina. He offers stern-todockage with water and electricity (220-volt, 50-cycle). It is quite deep at thenorth end, but at the south end, a large 4-feet shoal is just off the docks.

Sparkle Laundry [VHP: 16] in Gros Islet has a dinghy tocollect laundry from your yacht and deliver it back clean and folded. They are good andusually fast. You can also check out their new Sparkle Bar over next to thehaul-out slip. This is a very local bar, rather than a restaurant, but if youwould like them to cook a local meal for you, ask and it will be done.

John Leo has a taxi, and his wife does laundry. He comesround from time to time in a small boat. He is reliable and has a goodreputation.

Island Water World is a large, duty-free chandlery managed byIan Cowan, one of St. Lucia's most knowledgeable yachtsmen, aided by anexcellent team including Sophie, who has been answering questions from those onyachts for many years. This well-stocked store is part of the Caribbean-widechain, and you can get just about anything here from electronics to toilets andfridge units; if they don't have it in stock, they can also arrange to purchaseeverything from a main engine to a small part, and it can be ordered anddelivered to you at the store or on your boat.

Johnson's Marine Center is a large marine store just oppositeRodney Bay Marina. They keep a good stock of basic equipment at reasonableprices. Their range includes deck gear, rope, chain, anchors, fenders,fastenings, electrical fittings, lights, wiring and fuses, paint and sandpaper,fishing and snor-keling gear, fuel and oil filters, and outboard accessories.They can special-order any marine hardware you might want duty free. In additionthey keep a good selection of general and household hardware, including powertools.

If you need technical help, you can ask in the marina office,or over in the boatyard office. They keep a record of independent workers andcan find the right one to suit you. These include day-workers as well asmechanics, refrigeration specialists, and other technicians.

The marina contains many privately run services. Ulrich, atDestination St. Lucia (DSL), is very helpful, straightforward, and knowledgeable about boats and local technicians. His crewcan get your boat repaired, your refrigeration cooling, and your engine backworking. If there is something they cannot handle, they will recommend the righttechnician. DSL will look after your yacht while you go away, and they undertakeall kinds of yacht management and will charter suitable yachts. Ulrich's wife,Sandra, keeps a German language book swap in their reception area. This is along established company you can rely on.

The Sail Loft at Rodney Bay Marina is well managed by Inceand his team, who repair sails and make biminis, covers, and awnings. If Ince isaway, Kenny is the man to see. New sails come from Doyle Sails in Barbados. TheSail Loft is also agent for Furlex and Profurl. They are the riggers for themarina and can handle anything from replacing a shroud to ordering andinstalling a complete new rig. They also build many bimini and awning frames andare set up to work and bend 1-inch stainless tube. Talk to the sail loft aboutcushions and drapes ~ they can either do it themselves or recommend to you the best person for it.

Regis Electronics [VHF: 09] is the St. Lucian branch of theGreenham Regis chain, which has many stores in the UK. Jon White, who runs it,offers sales, installation, and service for all your electronics and chargingsystems. They are agents for most brands of electronic gear and keep both newequipment and many spare parts in their duty-free warehouse, which makes themthe best people for most of your electronic requirements, whether you are buyinga whole new system or upgrading or repairing your present one. They also carryFischer-Panda generators, alarm systems, Vitrofrigo refrigeration, Mermaidair-conditioning, and Spectra watermakers, all of which they service. Their shophas a good selection of batteries, electrical components, and accessories. Youcan also start from scratch here and order new gear from the catalogue (Jon willhave some good ideas on what to buy) and have it shipped duty free. Regis willinstall it on your boat. In the boatyard compound, Lawrence (Chinaman) runs themetal-working shop.

He can weld and fabricate in any metal. Elvis has a shop thatdoes glass repairs and general on-the-slip work.

Several outside contractors do work in association with themarina boatyard and can be hired through them. Richard Cox of Cox Marine is agood general man with years of fiberglass, woodworking, and other maintenanceexperience. He can handle anything from a quick-fix job to a new dinghy or amajor repair or a paint job. Others include: Remy and Parris Enterprises (woodwork,recaulking, fiberglass repairs, and fixing broken tape decks and radios) andTyson, who specializes in carpentry and cabinetwork. Tony George or AllwynAugustin will take care of your mechanical problems.

There are also technicians completely separate from themarina.

Liferaft and Inflatable Center is on the left-hand side ofthe channel as you come into the lagoon. The shop is operated and run by Francisand Debra, who have a customer dock with about 10-feet alongside, making it easyto drop off and collect dinghies. They are happy to help out their clients withwater. Liferaft and Inflatable Center tests, fixes and vacuum-bags all makes ofliferaft. One of the more popular features of their liferaft servicing is thatyou are invited to watch them unpack and examine the contents and decide whatextra gear should go back in. They also have one of the only Caribbean stationsthat can test and fill liferaft cylinders. They repair all makes of inflatable,do some of the best work in the islands, and guarantee their work for a year.Extensive dinghy repairs are expensive, and if you just turn it over to Francis,he will do an excellent job, but it may be more than you want to spend. So it isbetter if you to go over the project carefully with them and get a properestimate. In case it works out better to replace the dinghy, Liferaft andInflatable Center are a major inflatable store, with many models on showincluding Avon/Zodiac, Plastimo, AB, and Caribe. They can also arrange a newoutboard for you. An added benefit is a trade-in service for both dinghies anddinghy/outboard combinations. This makes buying the new one more affordable and means they often have a goodselection of guaranteed, beautifully restored secondhand inflatables for sale.Apart from liferafts, you can bring your fire extinguishers, lifejackets, andM.O.B modules for servicing.

Amtec [VHP: 72] is ably run by Mathew, a St. Lucian who hasbeen in the electrics/electronics business for 14 years. Mathew is happy to comeout to your boat and is good at diagnostics. He is very helpful, and if you havesome idea of what is going on, he is an excellent man to work with. He doeselectronics, but his strongest point is general boat electrics and engineelectrics where faulty wires and connections are often mistaken for, and lead to,more expensive problems. One of his specialties is making up boat-wiringharnesses and having them plug in to your main switch panel and other connectorboxes, which he does well and neatly, and he can do most of the work in his shop.Mathew also fixes starters, alternators, and generators, and can build Interface2000 Engine Control Systems. It is easiest to give him a call and arrange a rendezvous.

Chris Kessell is the local yacht surveyor; his prices arereasonable, and you can arrange for him to come and visit anywhere in St. Lucia.

Complete Marine Services in Rodney Bay Marina is a newcompany offering a full range of marine services. Steve Pearce, the owner, is asurveyor, and he is offering both surveys and complete project management undera tight system where he takes responsibility for the job at a fixed price and hechooses and deals with all subcontractors. In addition he does yacht brokerage,absentee management, charter management, marine insurance, salvage andmaintenance diving, and worldwide deliveries.

Ray Ashton Associates, the international surveyors, haveopened a division in the Caribbean with offices in Gros Islet. They carry outcondition, damage, insurance, and machinery surveys.

Prudent of Prudent Repairs is one of several refrigerationpeople, none of whom have offices in the marina. Ask at Regis which one iscurrently the coolest operator, and ask Jon to put you in touch.

Windward Island Gases, just beyond Glace Motors, tests scubatanks and can fill most kinds of gas bottles, including CO₂, argon,helium, and nitrogen.

When you want to get out and about, you will find buses runfrom right opposite the marina. Inside the marina is a good taxi stand. The guysare reliable and wear uniforms. If you are anchored further down in the lagoon,there is another stand by Capones.

Chris Joseph (C.J. Taxi, VHP: 16 ) is a good and reliabledriver who is part of the Rodney Bay taxi crew, and he usually listens to hisVHP radio. Chris also rents cars and jeeps, can arrange limousines, and ownssome rental apartments. Chris does good tours and is always on time for thatearly-airport departure.

Linus Placide is another good and industrious taxi owner (IntellectTaxi, VHP: 16). He was selected to work for Sparkle Charter, is helpful, anddoes good tours.

In addition to cruisers, Both CJ and Intellect taxi connectwell with the mega-yachts, and know how to arrange fuel bunkering, clear inparts, and bring customs to your yacht. They will also help with flowers,provisioning, and making any arrangements you want.

CTL, upstairs in the marina, rents cars.

A fast, small ferry to Marin is based in the marina. You buyyour ticket here, but it runs from Castries.

Glace Supermarket is close to Rodney Bay Marina, across theroad beside Johnson's Hardware. It is modern and clean, medium in size, and wellstocked on all the usual items including plenty of beer and liquor. The hoursare good ~ 0700-2030, closed Sunday. If you are buying a large quantity theywill be happy to deliver. Glace plans a hardware section upstairs ~ he has onedown in his other rfiarket, a few miles south. This can be very useful when yourun out of sandpaper when all the other stores are closed.

The Bread Basket sells fresh bread, croissants, cakes, Danish,and other baked goods. For really large quantities, contact them in advance.

Bryden and Partners is a fully stocked liquor store, withsome basic stationery supplies as well. Their marina store is a small outlet fortheir much bigger Castries branch, so if you do not see what you need, ask andthey will deliver.

For larger supermarkets and more shopping, you will need togo outside the marina. (See also our section on shops and services close byunder Between Cap Estate and Vigie.) For major provisioning, you cannotbeat the big new J.Q.'s shopping center in the southern part of Rodney Bay.Bernie Johnson, who is developing this area, has put in a dinghy dock to helpyachtspeople get ashore. This Mall is the largest and newest in St. Lucia, witha big supermarket and about 60 other shops and businesses. Any provisions youcannot find in the supermarket you may be able to get in the surrounding shops,which include a gourmet shop and a wine and liquor store.

The surrounding shops mean fewer trips to town. You will finda pharmacy, stationary, housewares, many clothing stores, and a bicycle shop.The Mall has quite a few restaurants. The one on the top floor is pleasant, witha good view over the bay.

Julian's Rodney Bay Supermarket is on the main road betweenthe Mall and the marina and is not convenient to dinghy to, though just a shortwalk for those in Waterside Landings. While not as big as J.Q's, it is the mostmodern looking supermarket in St. Lucia, pleasantly and interestingly laid out.Harmony Apartel has a mini-market that sells ice and is open 0800-2030.

The Flower Shack is in the marina, close to the dinghy dock.Dierdre, the owner, will make sure you get good fresh flowers or the appropriatepet potted plant. She will also do flower arrangements and can handle thedemands of the large yachts.

Caribbean Art gallery may have just the picture you need, andthey also carry a big range of antique map reprints.

Drop Anchor is a branch of the famous Sea Island Cotton_Shop,with a big range of casual wear and attractive handicrafts.

If you need money to pay for it all, the people at Royal Bankare very helpful, and there is also a Barclays bank.

If you cannot find the perfect souvenir in the marina or theJ.Q. Mall, keep looking; there are shops near the triangle pub and in all thebig beach hotels.

When it comes to eating out, the possibilities are endless.Start the day in the marina anytime after 0730 at Nick's Bread Basket [$D] forcoffee with a full cooked breakfast or plate of fresh croissants. Return atlunch for a really good ham-and-cheese sandwich or one of their special lunchplates, followed by ice cream or cake. This is also the place to stock up onbaked goods, and they bake the best bread in the area.

St. Lucia has seen the importation of good industrial coffeemachines recently, with the happy result that many places offer excellent coffeewith a choice of regular, espresso, or cappuccino. One of these is Cafe Ole, a charmingnew cafe with a small but delightful eating space outside, facing the marina.This is a great place for lunch-time sandwiches and salads, and they make theirown first-rate Italian ice cream. To ensure a seat for lunch, go early! It isowned by two charming women, Charlie and Elenor. Charlie is often in aroundlunch. Cafe Ole opens at 0700 and stays open in the evening, when they servedrinks.

Scuttlebutts Bar and Grill [$B-D] is the largest restaurantin the marina, and Mandy the manager, has made it a great yachtie hangout. Theyopen all day every day and offer their customers a communication corner withcomplimentary VHP, SSB, internet connections, and posted weather forecasts. Therestaurant is open, with swinging seats looking over the marina and outsideseating around the pool (with a beach bar). An adjoining playing field is handyfor impromptu games, and big TVs keep you up-to-date on sports. They offer greatcooked breakfasts and a broad-ranging, imaginative menu that is good for bothlunch and dinner. This varies from burgers and panini sandwiches to seafood,steak, and poultry in a wide variety of styles.

Bosun's has a comfy, pub-like atmosphere; tables are set outon the balcony with a view of the marina. They open every day till late at nightand have a wide-ranging menu.

Two good restaurants are on the road a short way from themarina. If you are walking, stay on the verge, off the road, and be very carefulof the traffic. They are also a minimum taxi ride.

If pizza is your thing, you will love Key Largo [$C-D], runby an enthusiastic young St. Lucian/Italian family. It is just a few minuteswalk from the marina. The pleasant Italian-style building features a wood-firedbrick pizza oven presided over by Carlo from Rome. Key Largo is open for lunchand dinner, and kids are welcome. The real Italian pizza is consistently, by far,the best in St. Lucia, and pasta (evenings only), salads, sandwiches, ice creams,and freshly ground espresso coffee are also served. Nightly happy hour is from1730-1830.

Upstairs at Key Largo, Carlo's wife, Maria, keeps many intrim in the Sportivo Fitness Center. It includes a full gym with all the gear aswell as Jazzersize, Body Pump, Tai Chi, Yoga, and more.

Tilly's 2x4 ($C-D) is on the main Rodney Bay highway close byKey Largo. Tilly is a lovely St. Lucian lady who prepares good local food and isvery popular with the locals. This new restaurant is in a brightly colored,Caribbean-style wooden building complete with a local rum shop. Tillyspecializes in local fish, but meat and fowl are available.

Other restaurants are all around the lagoon, and several canbe found opposite the St. Lucian and on the small road to JQ Mall. Dinghy tie upis available at Pizza Pizza, JQ's, and Mortar and Pestle.

Right on the waterfront, with its own dinghy dock, Nick'sCharthouse [$B-C] has a cheerful decor with lots of jungly plants. Nick isalways on hand and greets guests personally; the service is prompt and the foodconsistent. Specialties are steak, seafood, and ribs. The Charthouse is verypopular, so reservations are advisable.

Nick also runs Pizza Pizza [$D], next door if you aretraveling by dinghy. Kids and families love this place because of the playground, which has a trampoline, climbing frames, and lotsmore. You can sit outside on park-like seats. They serve pizza, pasta, andsalads. Their pizzas are American style, with plenty of cheese and toppings andrated very highly, judging by the popularity of the place.

Nick also owns Hooters, right above, but with a big staircaseentrance and balcony on the front side of the building. Hooters is a cheerfulbar and eatery. Nick describes it as tastefully tacky, an idea you can judge foryourself. I found the staff welcoming and the food to be good value andinexpensive. The bar stays open late and is entertaining.

Charlie's [$B-C, closed Mondays] is large and versatile, witha lot of class. The downstairs bar is elegant, with a delightful ambience afterdark. You can get hungry just looking at the big display of dessert cakes, whichtaste as good as they look. Occasionally people break down, and you see themeating dessert at the bar along with their cocktails. The main restaurant isupstairs, casually elegant and open to the breeze. The emphasis is on goodItalian food, including pizzas and pastas. They often have entertainment.Charlie's also has a boutique, which stays open over dinner and offers veryelegant women's clothing and jewelry.

Rumours (closed Monday) is the local pub. You can eat anddrink here, join Karaoke from time to time, or listen to a DJ on the weekends.Grub is available.

Big Chef Steakhouse [$A] has an unimposing entrance, but donot let that fool you. Owner Peter Kouly is one of St. Lucia's best-known chefs,and he adores good food. The restaurant is not cheap, but come for the steaks,which are perfect. Peter, who is also both the Danish and the Swedish consul,cooks and eats here every night except Sunday, when it is closed. If you eat oneof their largest (32 oz) steaks, you can return for a free steak another night.

Capone's is an art-deco restaurant in 1920s Miami style.Smart and snazzy and cool inside [$A], with efficient service and excellent andinventive Italian food, it will appeal to those wanting the best for a specialnight out. Outside [$C-D] is pleasant, casual, and popular among both locals andvisitors, with an inexpensive menu for everyday eating.

Those on a tight budget can choose between the Triangle Pub [$D]and the Lime [$D]. Both offer a cafeteria-style local meal for not much morethan you would pay for a drink in a fancy joint. The Lime also has a fancierrestaurant [$B] and a small nightclub/disco.

You can dinghy right up to Basils ($A-B) at Harmony Apartel.The seating faces the lagoon, and daily happy hour is 1700-1900, extended Fridayto 1700-2200; two for one. The menu features fresh fish, lobster, Iambi, steak,and local meat dishes.

To get to the next restaurants you head towards the yachtclub.

When John and Suzie Wright wanted to open a different kind ofrestaurant, a real East Indian restaurant seemed a sure winner. Both had Indianconnections, and no truly East Indian restaurant yet existed in the Windwards.The result is Razmataz [$B-D], opposite the Royal St. Lucian Hotel. A pivotaldecision was to bring in Dependra Bahadur as a partner. Dependra is fromKhatmandu in Nepal, and he cooks like an angel. Since many fruits and vegetablesfrom India were introduced to the Caribbean long ago, fresh ingredients are noproblem. A tandoori oven is kept going 24 hours a day, and the food isreasonably priced and excellent. For preference, reserve in advance and ask fora table on the patio. John, a recording artist from the 60s, often brings outhis guitar and sings 60s and country music. John and Suzie also have Mango Sands,a few very pleasant rooms for rent in the restaurant gardens.

Pat Bowden has a golden touch when it comes to restaurants,and she has proved this at Buzz ($A-C), her newest creation, opposite the RoyalSt. Lucian. The garden setting is pleasant, the service impeccable, and the cuisine inventive. Vegetarians will find they getequal treatment here in their choice of dishes. The menu has a wide selection ofseafood, including perfectly grilled fish, lobster, and crab cakes. Pescaphobeswill enjoy pecan-crusted chicken, Moroccan lamb, and West Indian pepperpot aswell as first-rate steaks. Try to leave room for some of their chocolate brandyginger cheesecake or other temptations. The restaurant is popular, so booking isadvisable. Buzz is opens for dinner every night (closed Mondays April toNovember) and is often humming for happy hour, between 1700 and 1900. Buzz is ashort ride from Rodney Bay Marina and, if transport is a problem, give Pat acall.

If you would like to meet some of the local yachtingcommunity, the best place to do so is at the St. Lucia Yacht Club [$D]. Theyhave a delightful upstairs bar/restaurant right on the beach that is openweekdays (except Monday when it is closed) 1500-2000, and on weekends from1100-2100. Although it is a members' club, visiting yachtspeople are always verywelcome. The bar/restaurant is run by Duncan and Michelle. They do a fabulousjob of keeping the club pleasant and friendly, and Michelle cooks excellentmeals very inexpensively. The club has an interesting bookswap, a TV for sportsevents, and world-class squash courts. A dinghy dock is planned, but if it doesnot happen, it is easy to pull your dinghy up on the beach outside. This is theplace to find out about local sailing events, and Michael Camps runs afirst-rate program on Saturday mornings to teach children how to sail.

Eagle's Inn [$C] is built right on the channel into RodneyBay. It has a romantic atmosphere and serves excellent seafood at a reasonableprice. If you want lobster, you can choose your own from their tank. You can tieyour dinghy up right outside. Instead of a happy hour, they run all-daylong,two-for-one drinks at their Happy Days Bar, a meeting place that usually hassomeone in attendance and gathers a crowd at sunset. You can also order food andsnacks at this bar. They have dancing on Friday and Saturday nights to livegroups or a DJ in an open atmosphere amid the trees and breeze.

Spinnaker's [$B-D] has a great location right on the beach bythe yacht club. It makes a perfect place to stroll to for lunch, where theyserve light lunches featuring rotis, chillies, and hamburgers. They also openfor dinner.

Those hankering after Chinese food should try Memories ofHong Kong [$C-D], a fine Chinese restaurant with full take-away service and ahappy hour on Fridays from 1800-1900.

The St. Lucian Hotel has two restaurants and nightlyentertainment.

Cas-en-bas is a great beach a couple of miles from Rodney Bay(main road north, turn right at the Gros Ilet turn-off). It's walkable, but thehiking north or south from Cas-en-bas is so good it is better to save yourenergy and take a cab. Marjorie Lambert, along with friends and relatives, doesa great inexpensive local lunch on the beach. They also have an all-night beachparty every full moon. They can organize horse riding for you, or you can doit with Trims. Majorie will also organize a beach party for groups (T520-0001 or450-0491). If you have a mountain bike, this east coast area, from Cap Estate toEsperance Harbour, is perfect.

It is not unusual for yachtspeople to sail into Rodney Bay,check out the protected anchorage, and say, "this is it, I am going to buyproperty." If having your boat close to your house is important, then checkout some of the available properties in Rodney Bay lagoon. The new Admiral Quay,with waterfront and garden apartments, all with docking facilities, and thesimilar Rodney Quay have enough units that usually some are on the market.

One agent, who handles these and other properties all overthe island, is fellow yachtsman Jonathan Everett. You will find him at Home Services, an office opposite Capone's.

The water in front of the St. Lucian Hotel is completely flatand good for beginner windsurfing. Boards are available for rent at the hotel.

There is reasonable snorkeling around Pigeon Island. Newscuba sites are being found in the north. If there is not too much surge, PigeonIsland offers a pleasant dive to 60 feet with staghorn coral, sponges, andbrightly colored parrotfish. Barrel of Beef has boulders, sponges, and colorfulreef fish, including sergeant majors. Fisheries regulations require thatvisiting scuba divers must go with an approved dive shop. Ian at Buddies Scubawill be happy to take you from Waterside Landings.

FROM CAP ESTATE TO VIGIE

Outside Rodney Bay, from Cap Estate down towards Vigie, aremany attractions, just a walk, bus ride, or taxi-hop away.

Travel World is owned and run by Joycelyn and her delightfulstaff. Her office is in American Drywall, on the road to Vigie. But you don'thave to go near the office; just call Joycelyn on the phone and tell her whatyou want ~ tickets, car rentals, or tours ~ and she will arrange everything anddeliver your tickets (or car) to you.

Joycelyn and her team are helpful and enthusiastic and workhard to get you the best rates, which has earned them many dedicated customers.They now have a service charge of $20 US for delivery ~ but it is well worth it,because their service is good and they will not just put you on the airline thatpays the highest commission. (This can be a bit of problem since so many airlines lowered theirpayments to agents.)

The Gablewoods Shopping Center is about halfway betweenRodney Bay Marina and Castries, a dollar bus-ride away. Before the new J.Q. Mall,this was the most popular on the island. It has a lot of stores, including aCourts department store and a Cable and Wireless internet station. Anyoneserious about their meat will come here for Choice Meats, which offers both thebest selection of meats and the best delicatessen on the island, with afirst-rate selection of cold cuts, pates, and sausages.

Chateaux des Fleurs in Gablewood also has many yachtingadherents. Their store is always bursting with fresh flowers, and they alsoprovide elegant fruit, cheese, and wine hampers. Satisfied customers includeboth small charter yachts and huge superyachts, whose owners get them to flowerup all the cabins. They offer good service and delivery to the marina. Vigie orMarigot delivery can be arranged at reasonable rates. You can also send flowers worldwide through them. There are plenty ofplaces to buy flowers, but if you want a fully professional service, you cannotbeat Chateaux des Fleurs.

The Gablewoods Sunshine Bookstore is the best bookshop in St.Lucia, with international papers, local books, guides, and more, and it is muchbigger than their branch at J.Q. Mall. The Sea Island Cotton Shop has aparticularly cheerful selection of clothing and handicrafts.

Admac is a wholesale outfit between American Drywall andGablewoods Mall, part-owned by an ex-charter skipper. They import smoked salmon,gravlax, creams, coffee, juices, yogurt, and more. Most of these are nowavailable through the local supermarkets, but charter yachts that want to buywholesale should check them out.

Cap Estate, a luxury development, is set in green-rollinghills to the north of Gros Islet. Golfers will be happy to know this is theplace to play golf in St. Lucia. They have an excellent course, recentlyexpanded, and visitors are welcome at the St. Lucia Golf and Country Club, whereyou can enjoy a round of golf and get to know local golfers.

Close by in Cap Estate, The Great House [$A] is good for aspecial night out. The restaurant is set in a grand old colonial style estatehouse, and everything has been done to enhance the ambiance of old style luxury.Next door, the Derek Walcott theatre regularly puts on cultural shows, fromdancing and music to theater. You can enquire about the program from the GreatHouse.

The small town of Gros Islet is picturesque and very local,with lots of small restaurants to choose from. One night you wouldn't go to eatin a Gros Islet restaurant is Friday, when the village is closed to traffic andeveryone dances in the streets or wanders from bar to bar. All along the streetthere are stalls selling such goodies as barbecued conch on a skewer andbarbecued fish and chicken. If you like to eat sitting down, the lovely oldScottie's Bar, right in the center of town, puts ghairs out on the street. Inrecent times, Friday night at Gros Islet has attracted undesirable elements; tobe safe, go in a group or by cab or bus and return the same way. Stay inwell-lit areas.

Windjammer Landings is an upmarket villa development justsouth of Rodney Bay. The anchorage is tricky, so those who want to go in thereby boat should contact the managers, and they will provide a guide. It is alsojust a short cab ride from Rodney Bay. They have restaurants, boutiques, andlive entertainment nightly.

When entering Castries Harbor, the only danger to avoid isthe shoal that extends to the west of Tapion Rock. There are two main anchorages:Vigie Creek and close to Castries town itself. The town anchorage is urban andnoisy, but conveniently located for shopping and services. My preference isVigie, which is more secluded and home to two of St. Lucia's very bestrestaurants, making it a fine place to stop for a night.

Castries has burned down twice and was most recently rebuiltin the early 1950s. Some post-disaster architecture lacks charm, but lovely oldbuildings that escaped the fire face Derek Walcott Square along Brazil Street.The area between Peynier Street and Chausee Road along Brazil, Micoud, Chisel,and Coral Streets has an interesting Creole atmosphere, with balconies,gingerbread, old and new buildings. Happily, many smaller new buildings are nowbeing designed in keeping with the old architecture.

Regulations

Castries is a port of entry, though it is much easier toclear in Rodney Bay or Marigot. The officials insist that entering yachts comestraight to the customs dock, or if there is no room, to the anchorage east ofthe customs buoy.

Water is available at the dock and ice may be bought from oneof the plants in town.

Valmonts has a Yamaha dealership opposite the fire station.They sell duty free outboards to yachts in transit. They also keep a good rangeof spares and will fix your broken Yamaha. Ray's Refrigeration will fix yourfreezer.

The big bus station is behind the local produce market. Allroutes are numbered. 1A is Gros Islet, 2H is Vieux Fort, 3D is Soufriere. TheMarigot and Canaries buses go from Victoria Street.

You can choose between the big new Julien's, close to themarket, and J.Q. Charles on W. Peter Boulevard. A big pharmacy/stationery storeis on Bridge Street.

You will find general hardware at Home Depot or Valmonts. Ifyou need acrylic sheet or synthetic canvas, then J.N. Baptiste is the specialist.For auto stores, try Johnson's and Bandag.

Hippo's Duty Free in La Place Carenage is well situated forstocking up on small or large quantities of wine, liquors, and Cuban cigars. Itis right on the main wharf in town, so you can load up your dinghy or talk about delivery.

St. Lucia's local market ranks among the best in the islands.It occupies several buildings as well as outdoor areas and spreads to both sidesof the road. It vibrates with color and excitement as hundreds of local vendorssell their wares. Spend an hour or two here enjoying the scene and take theopportunity to stock up on local foods, t-shirts, coal pots, straw work, andhandicrafts. The market includes a street of tiny food stalls, each owning asingle outside table. Here you will find the cheapest and tastiest local food onthe island. A ferry links the market with Pointe Seraphine, the duty-freeshopping mall where you will find about 50 pleasantly laid out tourist shops. (Takeyour boat papers with you for the duty free.)

Just down the road, La Place Carenage is the place fortourist shops ~ lots of them, all pleasantly laid out. Their fully automatichistorical animation center will be a trip when it opens ~ see everything fromancient sea battles and the two Castries fires to the sinking of British shipsduring World War II. The same building sometimes offers a Promenade of LocalArtisans, which gives you a chance to watch handicrafts in the making and to getto know their creators before you buy them.

A trip out to Bagshaw's silk-screen clothing factory is

ends 08004400. You can berth alongside out of fuel dock hours.There is a docking charge.

A short walk on the road to town is Leroy James's big NAPAagency, which stocks filters, parts, sprays, seals, polishes, and tools. Theyare agents for Evinrude out-boards and offer full sales and service. In additionthey stock OMC inflatables, ropes, and some marine hardware.

It is probably easiest to dinghy to town to provision.Otherwise, the nearest good supermarket is J.Q.'s at the roundabout at thebottom of the runway.

A good reason for coming into Vigie is to visit one of thetwo excellent restaurants that grace its shores. These are among the finest inSt. Lucia, and those who are seriously interested in food should visit either bycab or boat. Both are open for lunch and dinner. You can often walk in for lunch,but they are both so popular that reservations for dinner are usually essential.

The Coal Pot [$B] has a very romantic setting right on thewaterfront. It also has a romantic history. Many years ago, Bob Elliot sailedacross the Atlantic and into this cove. He fell in love and married Sonia, whosefamily owned the land, and they built this as their house. Michelle, theirdaughter, spent her first few years growing up here. Later, Bob converted thehouse to a storehouse for his beloved day-charter brig, Unicorn, then into arestaurant, keeping the suitably nautical decor. Michelle and her husband Xavier,who is French and a superb cook, now run the restaurant.

They open for both lunch and dinner and, as it is popular,reservations are advisable. Michelle has also become a very successful localartist. Her works usually adorn the restaurant walls, and she has opened shopsin Pointe Seraphine to sell her art. She also designs pottery, which is madenext door. Some of it is on show in the Coal Pot's small boutique.

Across the water (you can tie your dinghy to the dock rightbelow) is Froggie Jacques, another of St. Lucia's top restaurants and also verypopular. You will be charmed by owner Jacques and his attractive wife Kathy, whohave spent many years in St. Lucia in the hotel industry, Jacques as a top chef,Kathy as a restaurant manager in St. Lucia's fanciest hotel. Jacques brings fromthe Loire Valley his training and experience as a skilled chef. He has adaptedthis to local ingredients to produce what Kathy calls "an exciting blend offlavors, herbs and spices of France and the Caribbean." Try the Octopus orConch in spicy passion fruit sauce, or their homemade crab backs and you willget the idea. Jacques is very much into seafood, and his home smoked fish onmixed leaves with pineapple and papaya sauce is delicious. Froggie Jacques hasan open garden atmosphere in a tropical garden that slopes down to the water.They open for both lunch and dinner but close Sundays.

Froggie Jacques is also the home of Caribbean perfumes, whereexotic local aromas from trees, plants and flowers, are made into perfumes andcolognes ~ an unusual gift or souvenir. Visit their shop in the colorful, traditionalchattel house.

Gourmets should stay two nights and try both restaurants.

Also in Vigie (close to Pointe Seraphine) is the AllianceFrancais. They offer French lessons and an internet cafe, and it is worthchecking out their coming cultural events.

Marigot Bay is another of the Caribbean's spectacularlybeautiful anchorages, completely sheltered and affording a perfect backdrop tothat sunset rum punch. It lies about a mile south of Hess Oil's huge tankerdepot at Cul de Sac Bay. By staying fairly close inshore and watching for aprominent house with a conspicuous red roof on the hill of the southern entrance,you should not miss Marigot. However, it is so well tucked away that a Britishadmiral is reputed to have hidden his fleet here, disguising the masts by tyingcoconut fronds in the rigging. The pursuing French sailed right by.

Favor the southern side of the channel as you enter. This isnot always easy, as many yachts anchor on this side of the channel. Pass closeto them or you will touch the shoal that extends a long way out from MarigotBeach Resort. A green marker and orange-and-white-striped beacon mark the shoal.Leave these to port as you enter. Anchor outside, clear of the channel, oranywhere in the inner harbor, where holding is fair in soft mud. Depths are 18to 24 feet. Costly and delicate underwater electric cables and water pipes crossright at the entrance to the inner harbor. Anchoring is strictly forbidden here.

The MBBA (Marigot Bay Business Association) works hard tokeep the bay safe for cruisers and hires a local security company to patrol theharbor.

You may well be approached by vendors in boats who frequentlyoffer bananas of dubious provenance at twice the price of the local markets. Sofar I have politely refused all offers and have been left in peace. Others makeelegant hats and baskets out of palm leaves that are popular as souvenirs.

Much of the southern shore has been bought by the Verityfamily for a major development called Discovery at Marigot Bay. Current workwill rapidly reshape this part of the bay, starting with marina (alreadyfinished), to be quickly followed by the marina village with all kinds of shopsand services. Behind will be villas and apartments, well designed within apleasant gardened area. Restaurants will open soon.

Marigot Bay is an official port of entry, with customs andimmigration. They usually open from 0900-1200 and 1300-1630. There is a 4-knotspeed limit in the harbor.

Dinghy docks are outside the customs house, close under thenew marina village, directly in front of Doolittle's Restaurant, or at ChateauMygo. Dinghies must not be tied to the yacht docks.

Take your garbage to the truck facility beside the customs/policestation. There is a small charge. DO NOT give it to local vendors for disposal ~despite assurances to the contrary, they throw it in the mangroves.

]] has an internet cafe and will help with faxes and othercommunications. They open daily 0800-midnight. Marigot Beach Club has an officecenter with an internet connection, faxes, and phone. They open 0800-2100Mondays to Saturdays and 0800-1700 on Sundays.

Marigot Bay Marina is part of the Discovery development, with40 alongside and stern-to berths. They have a contract with the Mooringscharter company, which has a base here with a fleet of about 30 yachts forbareboat or skippered charter.

Diesel and gasoline (ask about duty-free fuel) are availableon the fuel dock next to the customs dock. Moorings are planned.

]] offers water alongside his Sunset Bar dock. He also hassome stern-to berths.

Captain Bravo's 24-hour ferry service connects all parts ofthe bay and does yacht drop-off and pick-up. ($10 EC yacht to shore takes allthe crew.) JJ has a ferry for those wanting to go from their yachts to his bar.Taxi Service Marigot [VHP: 16] is a cooperative of the local taxi drivers whowait near customs.

The Mariner Market, which is part of the Moorings, is awell-stocked mini-market with a wide range of French and other wines.They bake fresh French bread daily and often have smoked salmon in stock. Inseason, it opens 0800-1800, except Sunday when it closes at 1630. In thesummertime it closes a couple of hours earlier. This may change when the newmarina village opens with about 20 retail and service outlets, but there willstill be a food market around.

Otherwise, hike the hill into the village to R and Lsupermarket, or for the biggest and fanciest in the area, go to Chico'sSupermarket on the main west coast road, just a short distance from where theMarigot road joins the main road. It is a short distance in the directionof Castries. You can ask owner Mary Chico about delivering your things back tothe dock.

Marigot has very much come to life in recent years, and thereare several excellent restaurants for eating ashore, mostly very moderatelypriced. Should you want to hike to the village at night, best go in a largegroup for security.

Chateau Mygo [$B-D, VHP: 16] is a family-run restaurant whosegrounds go from the beach through tropical gardens to the main restaurant. Thisis a Caribbean/East Indian family who also have many ties to yachting. Doreen,who ran it when her mother retired, is now off cruising, and her son Shaid hastaken the helm. Shaid speaks English like a Californian and Spanish like a CostaRican. He loves to surf and race sailboats, and is introducing neighboringlocals to racing under sail.

Down by the beach, their Soggy Dollar bar opens at 1700 andoffers 2-for-l drinks all night. You can eat here from the main menu or thepizza menu. Call and they will collect you from your yacht, or leave your dinghyby the Soggy Dollar Bar. You can also talk to them about coming stern-to forwater if you wish. A few steps away the Pizza Kitchen is another beachfront barwhere they serve local food during the day and at night fire up the pizza ovenfor authentic thin-crust Italian pizza. Back in the main restaurant, the cuisineis a fusion of East Indian and Creole, spiced by ideas garnered from around theworld. Local seafood is a specialty, including lobster, conch chowder, and fishCreole. Baby-back ribs and USDA Black Angus steaks are popular with many sailors.Tuesday night is steak blow-out night, and Thursday night is Indian night, withtraditional curries. Both nights have music. Saturday nights they have specialpasta dishes. On Wednesday nights, women accompanied by a male, get their meal half-price. A captainbringing six or more guests gets his meal free. Rotis and burritos with homemadesalsa are popular for lunch.

Chateau Mygo also has apartments and sailing/shore holidayplans. A gift shop is coming.

The Shack is perched on stilts out over the bay. This wasclosed when I went by but may reopen.

JJ's [VHP: 16, $B-C] Paradise Resort is a hideaway tuckedbehind the mangroves. There is plenty of room for dinghies. If you want to visitthe village or go to town, then use JJ's dinghy dock and go from here; it is theshortest route up the hill. The approach to JJ's is great, a long narrow, woodenwalkway through the red mangroves, offering a unique platform to study theirstrange roots as well as the crabs and birds that make use of them. JJ has tworestaurants and serves good local food. The main restaurant is pleasant, with aswimming pool and large bar. On the water, his Sunset Bar and restaurant offers2-for-l drinks 1700-1900; bring a hand line to fish and settle in. If you want,to you can probably arrange to bring your yacht stern to the dock. Sunset Baralso serves food.

On the north shore is Marigot Beach Club and Dive Resort [VHP:16, $B-C], owned by Dave from England. His Doolitte's restaurant is comfortableand right on the waterfront. Nightly happy hour, 2-for-l, is from 1700-1900, andon Fridays there is another from 2100-2300. Live entertainment is frequent inseason. Marigot Beach Club has rooms for nights ashore, and if you need aworkout, they have a gym. Behind Cafe Paradis are a couple of boutiques and abeauty salon. Dave also sometimes opens his Big Bamboo Bar.

Discovery at Marigot plans, as part of its deveolpment, afine dining restaurant, two bars, and a dockside cafe. The Pink Snail Bar willbe a memorial to the Dr. Doolittle, movie which was filmed here.

Walk about a mile to the main road to catch a bus to town for$2 EC. On the return journey, most bus drivers are willing to bring you all theway to the customs dock for $5 EC.

A dive shop can often be found at Marigot Beach Club. Severalexcellent dives are just south of Marigot in the area of Anse Cochon. Theseinclude Rosemund's Trench, two major wrecks, and the very decorative AriseCochon reef. The SMMA is not too far by the fast dive boat.

Pedal bikes, sailboards, catamarans, and other sailing craft,as well as water taxis, are available on the beach.

Two marine management areas control this area. The northernpart is managed by the Canaries Marine Management Area (CMMA) and the southernpart by the Sou-friere Marine Management Area (SMMA) [VHP: 16]. Both come underthe direction of the SMMA. They regulate all anchoring, diving, and fishing. Youmay only anchor in a couple of areas (see section descriptions). Otherwise, pickup one of the white moorings with a blue stripe. They are designed for yachts upto 70 feet. Larger yachts should contact a ranger, who will direct them tospecial moorings. All moorings are equipped with a yellow tag on the pick-upline, indicating the last time it was serviced. Orange buoys are reserved fordive boats or snorkeling dinghies only. There are charges for being in theMarine Management Areas. The basic rate allows you to stay for two nights. For asmall increase you can stay for a week. The rates in $EC are: $40 for a vesselup to 40 feet, $54 up to 70 feet, and $107 per day over 70 feet. If you want tostay a few days, opt for the weekly rates: $54 up to 40 feet, $67 up to 70 feet.(Over 70 feet yachts pay $107 per day.) The fees are good for both areas. Allfees go towards paying for the maintenance and upkeep of the park. As in therest of St. Lucia, spearfishing and damaging, taking, or even buying coral,sponges, or sea urchins (dead or alive) are strictly forbidden, as is thedumping of garbage, oil, etc. Fishing is also forbidden in the marine reserves.You can pick up any available mooring. Always put your mooring line through theloop on the mooring rope; do not put the loop on the mooring rope on your cleat. A park ranger will come by to collect thefees. Park rangers carry identification and give official receipts. The MarinePark staff are very helpful with finding taxis, giving weather alerts, andmaking yachts feel welcome.

This situation is complicated by an archaic and restrictivecustoms regulation that states that if you wish to moor or anchor outside a portof clearance, you must get, and pay $25 for, a Permit to Moor for the particularnight you want to go. This mainly affects the stretch of coastline south ofMarigot up to Anse Chastanet. Absurdly, you are supposed to pay not only thepermit to moor but also the park fees. You do not need a Permit to Moor for anyof Rodney Bay, Castries and Vigie, Marigot, Sou-fnere Bay, or Vieux Fort, all ofwhich are ports of clearance. But if you say Soufriere and the customs officerasks: "The Pitons?" say "no" or you will be charged.

Anse Pilori and Trou 1'Oranger are small white sand beachesoccasionally used by day-charter boats. Anchoring off these beaches is onlypermissible between 0900-1700 hours. In calm, pleasant weather, they can beworth a stop for a swim and a snor-kel.

Anse La Raye is a permissible overnight anchorage and good insettled conditions with no northerly swells. There is plenty of swinging roomoff the town in 15 to 20 feet of water. The northern part of the bay shoalsquite rapidly. Anse La Raye is a poor but picturesque fishing village. The nightto go is Friday, when they have a fish fest. Tables and chairs are put rightdown the center of the front street, and vendors set up stalls on both sides ofthe road and cook seafood: fish, lobster, Iambi, and floats to go with it. It isvery popular locally, and as long as local families make up the largest numberof attendants, it will probably retain its almost magical atmosphere of fun,peace, goodwill and good food.

You can tie your dinghy to the ruins of the town dock (you will need a stern anchor) or pull it up onthe beach. When you go ashore, show the police your entry clearance paper. Thiswill leave you free to explore some of the surrounding attractions.

River Rock Falls is a good 2-mile hike up a pretty road thatstarts on the northern edge of the village. It is well signposted, so you willnot need a guide. Do not expect a wild, tropical fall; this is a gardened areawhere the fall and rock pool have been partially created with concrete. What youlose in immediate visual satisfaction you gain by the convenience of seats,tables, changing rooms, and a generous balcony overlooking the falls. The $5 ECentry fee is good value if you carry up lunch and spend a few hours relaxing,swimming in the pool, and exploring the surrounding area. With luck, you mayhave it to yourself.

The much wilder and more beautiful Bois de Nave fall is inthe hills to the southeast of the village. You would probably need to hire aschool kid to show you the way. The hiking in this area is excellent, with trails laid out by Jungle Tours. However, swimming in thefalls is not encouraged, as it is a water source. After hiking you can cool offin the big pool to the left of the road on your way back to the village. Thislarge pool, by a cleft in the rocks, is the most popular bathing place forlocals.

Rankin's Bar, close by the main dock, is the best bet for alocal meal or fish and chips. The ambiance is somewhat noisy, though there isone tiny table in the inner courtyard a little out of the mainstream. A muchmore elegant restaurant can be found about a mile down the road heading backinto hills south of the village. Ask anyone the way to La Sikwee restaurant,which is set in lovely old sugar mill ruins that have been carefully gardened.It is not always open, so call before you go.

I am told there is an old house in the village that is hometo thousands of bats that almost explode into the air just after sunset. Askanyone in the village about the bat house.

Anse Cochon is a small bay with an attractive beach. It liesabout 3 miles south of Marigot. You pass Anse La Raye, then there is a rockyheadland. Anse Cochon is tucked up in the comer just past this headland. It isthe first beach after the headland. Moorings have been placed in Anse Cochon,and you can stay overnight, especially if you use those in the south end of thebay. Moorings continue about half a mile south to Anse La Vedure. The coastlineis attractive all the way along, and usually comfortable enough for overnighting.

Ti Kaye [VHP: 16], a charming, small hotel, sits perched onthe southern headland of Anse Cochon. It is ably run by Nick and Jeannine, whomaintain a friendly atmosphere. You climb their scenic staircase that takes youup and up to the restaurant, Kai Manje [$B-C], with its panoramic view. You geta perfect photo of your yacht below and the very best platform for viewing thegreen flash. The food is an imaginative blend of local and Oriental dishes. Itis probably smart to make reservations on the VHP, especially on Fridays, whenoccasionally everyone in the hotel goes to Anse La Raye for the fish fry. The TiKaye beach bar has a view of the beach for those those who cannot face thestairs. The dinghy dock attached to the beach bar lost a battle with the surge,but a new one is planned.

Island Divers [VHP: 16] makes diving here really easy; thediving is in small groups and fun. They are a full Padi and Naui shop. Talk withTyrrel or Jonathon. Call them on the radio for a boat pick-up.

And the diving is excellent. The water is 25-40 feet deepwith a coral and rock slope descending onto sand. Out on the sand are isolatedrock outcroppings covered in corals and sponges. These underwater fairy castlesteem with small fish. Though there are not many large fish, the abundance andvariety of small fish and reef creatures more than compensates. There is alsothe wreck of the Lesleen-M in the middle of the bay. It was a 165-foot freighter and lies in 67feet of water. It was deliberately sunk in 1986 to make a dive site. The wreckhas attracted an exceptional collection of invertebrates, many of which areuncommon elsewhere. Rosemond's Trench is another delightful dive in this areathat starts between two small canyon walls. There are many sponges andinvertebrates with a colorful selection of reef fish.

The snorkeling on the south side ranges from interesting toexcellent, especially for more experienced snorkelers. Snorkeling off the rockyheadland at the north end of Anse Cochon is fair, with brightly colored sponges,corals, and parrotfish.

ANSE DE CANARIES

Several moorings have been placed in Anse de Canaries, in the northeastcorner of the bay, about a third of a mile north of the village. Cliffs surroundthis pleasant, quiet area, and overnighting is permitted. The snorkeling lookslike it might be interesting around Jambette Point, which has a tiny beach whereyou could land a dinghy. It is sometimes in use by overland parties who come fora barbecue by the beach.

If you can beach your dinghy in the village (there is nodock), there is excellent hiking to two waterfalls in the area. To find them, goto the main road and head south across the bridge. Take the road on your leftjust over the bridge. This soon leaves civilization as it winds back into theforest. After 2 miles, a landslide marks the end of the drivable road. From hereyou look at an amazingly verdant and broad valley surrounded by hills.Follow the well-marked path for another half-hour till you come to an old bridgecrossing the river. Keep straight (do not cross the bridge) and you come to thefirst falls -not very large but dramatically set in a grotto with the waterpouring through a hole in the rock. If you are lucky enough to be there mid tolate morning, when the sun shines through the hole, the lighting is fairlyspectacular. A good swimming pool lies below. If you have the energy, return tothe bridge and continue another hour for the second, even prettier falls.

Soufriere is a small, picturesque town set amid a scenicwonderland dominated by the towering twin Pitons. Its exceptional beauty willenthrall hikers and photographers. The surrounding water is a magnificent marinepark. There are many great things to see and do, the coastline is wonderful,there are lots of small restaurants, and those who like snorkeling, hiking, anddiving could easily spend a week in the area.

When approaching Soufriere from the north, beware of theshoal that extends out from the south side of Anse Chastanet off Grand CaillePoint. If you ground, you will be fined for damaging the reef.

The whole area shown on our sketch chart is part of the SMMA.Regulations and fees for using the management areas have been given above (seeMarigot to Soufriere, Regulations). The SMMA has an office inSoufriere on the waterfront near the craft market where you can check up on youremail and the latest weather. Everyone here is very friendly and welcoming.

Soufriere is a port of clearance for pleasure yachts. Atpresent, customs is in the SMMA building and immigration in the police station.Customs hours are Monday-Thursday 0800-1630, Friday 0800-1800, Saturday andSunday 0800-1630. You will pay $10-$15EC overtime after 1630 on Fridays and onweekends. There are also port fees to pay; we give these in St Lucia at aGlance at the beginning of St. Lucia.

Take your garbage to bins in town; do not give it to boatvendors for a fee ~ despite assurances, they do not dispose of it properly.

Security in the SMMA is generally very good. You need to takea little care about leaving stuff loose on deck and hanging on the lifelines.Also it is worth asking one of the park rangers about the current securitysituation. If you are leaving your boat for dinner or to go on a tour, they maybe able to keep an eye on it if this is felt to be necessary. Harassment ismainly a thing of the past, but should anyone annoy you, contact the SMMA [VHP:16]. If you cannot reach them, call Benny [Harmony Beach, VHP: 16]; he isusually around and does help. Take a description of the person and the name oftheir craft. The biggest danger here, as in most places, is speeding piroguesand other craft. Stay alert, especially when swimming and snorkeling.

Anyone scuba diving must be accompanied by an official diveguide. An SMMA diving fee applies to all dives. It is only $12 US for a year,though if you are just passing through, you can pay $5 US for one day.Snorkeling fees are included in your SMMA mooring fee, and you can snorkelanywhere. If you are an accredited diver and have your own equipment, the SMMAcan put you in contact with a guide. If you are doing more than one dive thisway, the SMMA can help you get your tanks filled. The advent of a yacht-friendlydive shop (Action Adventure Divers) who provide all levels of service, includingguides and yacht pick-ups, makes diving much easier for those on yachts (see HummingbirdAnchorage).

Many people with boats will offer to help run you to town ortake you for a tour or longer ride to Castries or Vigie (it is faster byboat than car). The best are members of the Soufriere Water Taxi Association[VHP: 16], a very professional group of properly equipped and insured watertaxis. These are the only ones to use for longer trips. Benny, at Harmony, isgood, has a seaworthy pirogue, and stands by on VHP: 16 (Harmony Beach). Hewants to encourage more yachts and will tie up your lines for free if you givehim a call.

Charles Richards (Mystic Man Tours) also operates a veryprofessional service, and he is easy to reach, with an office close to the SMMA.He is good for longer trips (getting to Castries for example), and he runs greatwhale-watching tours.

There are still a few youths around the beach and waterfrontwho pester yachts, take drugs, and are best avoided. If they come on to you,just say "no."

Some land taxis charge very hefty rates for short trips inthis area. If you are visiting a restaurant, call the restaurant and ask them toarrange a taxi for you. That way you will get a more reasonable deal.

ANSE CHASTANET

Anse Chastanet is an attractive cottage hotel built on a hillthat slopes to the sea. Several yacht moorings are available off the cliffsnorth of the beach in Chamin Cove. There are rocks just south and north of themoorings, so approach with caution. While often reasonably peaceful, this areacan be untenable in times of a northerly swell. A big new shore access dock isunder construction.

The Anse Chastanet beach bar is a congenial lunch spot, withtwo boutiques in the same area. For dinner, they have a restaurant up the hillwhere the emphasis is on Creole and international seafood. Anse Chastanet isalso accessible by dinghy or by the road from Soufriere, or you can hire a watertaxi to bring you over. They rent bikes and have a mountain-bike trail.

Scuba St. Lucia at Anse Chastanet [VHP: 16] is one of thelargest dive operations in the Windwards, with two resort courses and four divesdaily. They do not fill tanks. Scuba St. Lucia takes divers on the AnseChastanet Reef for their first dive at 1100. It is best to turn up half an hourearly and remember to bring your diving card. If you are not certified, resortcourses are available, and these usually start at around 0900.

Anse Chastanet reef extends seaward from the beach and isstill in reasonably good condition. The shallower parts are fair for snorkeling,but avoid cruise ship days. Diving is excellent along the length of the reef,which slopes from about 30 to 80 feet. Sheet coral, fungus corals, solitarycorals, and brain corals are abundant as are a delightful variety of sponges,from the azure vase sponge, to large barrel sponges. The water is clear and reeffish abound, with clouds of brown and blue chromis along with sergeant majors,brilliantly colored parrotfish and goatfish. All kinds of jacks and snapperscruise just off the reef. Currents are fierce on the outer part of the reef.

Snorkeling is also good along much of this coast to the northof the moorings.

When you go from Anse Chastanet towards Soufriere, be verycareful of the reef off Grand Caille Point. Not only might you damage your boatbut also you will be liable for hefty fines (up to $5000US), for damaging thereef.

This beach lies between Gd. Caille Point and Rachette Point.Sand covers the middle of the bay, but there are lovely coral gardens, ideal forsnorkeling and diving, to both the east and west. The snorkeling is better tothe east, the diving to the west. There are no yacht moorings at present, but itis a reasonable dinghy ride from Soufriere or the Hummingbird, and you can tieto an orange dive buoy, if available, or to one of the SMMA marker buoys, ifnot.

This is the most comfortable anchorage in the SMMA and it isone of the only places where you are allowed to use your own anchor in the park.Anchor in the northern part of the bay off the Still Restaurant or theHummingbird ~ the area is marked onshore with signs. Take a line and tie sternto the shore. You must move if requested to do so by fishermen, but this almostnever happens. Six yacht moorings have also been placed in the area of the batcave. While more roily than stern to the beach, it has an attractive remotefeel, and the snorkeling is good right off your boat.

The Hummingbird is a delightful spot to anchor. There isalways something going on along the beach to keep you entertained. The beachserves the town of Soufriere and is very popular both with locals andholidaymakers, who all seem to have a great time. Kids scream with delight,youths play soccer and do headstands, water taxis come and go.

A new dinghy dock in the corner of the bay makes gettingashore easy. There is no need to pay any so-called "dinghy watchers."If you are eating at the Hummingbird or the Still, their security will keep aneye on it.

The Hummingbird staff will help customers with telephonecalls or faxes during normal office hours, and you can check your email here.The Still staff are happy to help out with local and overseas telephone callsand faxes.

The Hummingbird Restaurant [VHP: 16, $A-B] is the mostelegant and charming of Soufriere's waterfront restaurants, featuring a wallmade of pottery coal pots, wonderful hand carvings, and an exquisite view acrossthe pool to the Pitons beyond. The food is a blend of French and Creole cuisine,with seafood a specialty. Owner Joyce gets much of her business from yachts andwelcomes them warmly ~ so much so that everyone coming for dinner gets a freerum punch, and a skipper bringing in a party of four or more gets a mealselected by the house for free. They have a steel band on Saturday night withCreole specialties in addition to the normal menu. If you are leaving yourdinghy on the dock, tell security, and they will keep an eye on it for you.

Joyce also has the Hummingbird's Bamboo Beach Bar, which ispopular for sunset or moonlit cocktails. Happy hour is from 1700-1900, and theyarrange beach barbecues for groups of ten or more.

Meal guests are welcome to use the pool, and hot and coldshowers are available (free if you are staying for dinner). Joyce will arrangetaxis and tours for her customers at a fair local rate. Her staff will help youget rid of well-wrapped garbage. Batiks, handmade on the premises, feature intheir boutique, and Joyce offers 10 percent discount to yachts. Rooms areavailable, 15 percent discount in the summer, 20 percent in winter.

The Still Beach Restaurant [VHP: 16, $B-C] is just to thenorth of the Hummingbird and clearly visible from the anchorage. The Still has alarge patio completely open to the beach, the Pitons, and the night lights ofSoufriere that is perfect with a rising moon. It is managed by Michelle andDavid, aided by helpful and friendly staff. They offer good-sized portions oflocal food (most of it fresh from the associated Still Estate) at reasonableprices. The restaurant has a boutique offering a wide variety of handicrafts aswell as some clothing and essentials, such as suntan cream. If you come with aparty of four or more, the skipper can get a fish or chicken meal free.

The Still Beach Restaurant is part of Ruby Estate [$C], just out of town. This is a lovely oldworking plantation and one of several beautiful estates that are open to thepublic for a small fee. This one is a little unusual for having both an oldwater wheel that has become home to many bats and for some sizeable ponds wheretilapia are commercially raised. These aquatic areas afford excellentopportunities for seeing herons, ducks, and other waterfowl. The estate treesinclude bananas, citrus, cocoa, mangoes, breadfruit, nutmeg, guavas, soursop,golden apple, and star fruit. Flowers, including an-thuriums, ginger lily, andheliconia, are another crop and enhance the view. Part of the Estate is thelarge Still restaurant, offering good local food and a handicraft boutique. Thesetting is quite delightful, with old estate buildings and the large, ancientcopper still that was used for making rum. While visiting, you can check up onyour e-mail with their computer. One great way to view the estate is by taking ahorse-riding tour around it. You can organize this at either of the restaurants.Rooms are available.

Action Adventure Divers currently offers the best service foryachtspeople wanting to dive in the SMMA. It is run by two brothers from afishing family in the area: Chester (an advanced Padi instructor) and Vincent (adivemaster). They know all the good spots. Their shop is in the Still. You cancontact them through the VHF at the Still or call on the phone. They will behappy to come by your yacht and pick you up. They offer a variety of services,from resort courses to full certification, and if you have all your own gear,their charges can be as low as $15 US per person, the standard rate for a guide.They use a pirogue with a bimini for sun cover, are flexible and helpful and aredelighted to work with those on yachts, who they see as their main customerbase.

Snorkeling is good all the way between the anchorage and Trouau Diable Beach. If you snorkel in shallow water off the beach in front of theStill Beach Restaurant, you are likely to see streams of bubbles rising to thesurface ~ they are from a minor underwater volcanic vent.

SOUFRIERETOWN

The town of Soufriere was the set of the movie Water, starringMichael Caine, and it has many charming old Creole buildings with balconies' andgingerbread. Much has been done recently to upgrade the town and waterfront.

There is a yacht- and general-purpose dock just off the SMMA.You can use this for your dinghy.

There are now four moorings to the south of town, no sternline needed. The two furthest from town are too close together for yachts over30 feet ~ they can collide at night.

The SMMA has an email station, and there is another, largerone a few doors from Eroline Supermarket, called Fountain Enterprises. They alsosell office supplies.

Cool Breeze gas station is right at the head of the towndock. They can supply water, fuel (gas or diesel), engine oils, and ice alongthe town dock. The dock is often stacked with day-charter boats during themiddle of the day, but it empties after they leave and stays that way tillmidmorning. (If you need to fuel up during the busy time, you could probablycome alongside one of the other boats.)

The SMMA acts as a general help and information center ~ theywill get you a car rental, find you a tour, fix up a hike with the forestrydepartment, make you a booking for dinner, and tell you about all the localattractions. They also have a bookswap.

Ben Taxi stands by on VHP: 16. He is a knowledgeable guideand will happily take you on a tour of the area, help you provision, find freshflowers or fruits, get your guests to the airport, make you restaurantreservations, take you there, and be your general help in Soufriere. Call him onthe VHP, or if you are between the Pitons, ask for him in Tivi Tivi boutique bythe marina docks in Jalousie Hilton. Ben also offers full superyacht service,from fueling to clearance. Note that if you call Ben Taxi, Bennie (Harmony Hall)might answer, as their names are very similar. Ben is an excellent land taxioperator and has a water taxi; Bennie is a first-rate water taxi captain and hasa restuarant.

In town, Eroline's Foods is a great little supermarket,sparkling clean with an ample array of foods to provision your boat. I waspleased to see they had local frozen fish on sale. It is connected with FondDoux Estate, which supplies much of their produce.

Many delightful restaurants can be found in this area. At thehead of the town dock is The Old Courthouse. The building was Soufriere'scourthouse back in 1898. Today, an extensive deck provides a pleasant eatingarea. The restaurant was in the middle of a big change; check it out foryourself.

Camilla's [$C-D] is one of the oldest local restaurants, setupstairs with a balcony overlooking the street. The staff are pleasant andfriendly, and the seafood is fresh and reasonably priced. Camilla also has afast-food bar downstairs, and a guesthouse.

Archie's, a few steps from the SMMA, is the best cheap andcheerful joint in town. The cooking is local, a blackboard has the standardmenu; ask about specials. A big TV shows the latest sports events. You can get food here anytime they are open, and it is excellent value ~probably cheaper than cooking for yourself.

If you visit on a weekend, check out El Punto [$D], oppositeEroline's, a little hideaway with good seafood.

Outside town are several excellent restaurants, well worthvisiting. Some you can walk to, others are on a local bus route or a short taxiride away. However, the attitude and prices of some Soufriere taxis for shortrides has been unreasonable. So if you cannot find a taxi that seems fair, callthe establishment concerned and ask them to arrange one for you. They know thereasonable drivers.

The Dasheene Restaurant at Ladera Resort [$A-B] has the mostawesome view of any bar in the Caribbean; just to walk in is unforgettable. Theoriginal owner/designer made the most of the location, keeping the buildingssmall and interesting and completely open to the view. He was called back asarchitect for the recent expansion, and under his hand, the new restaurant andbar was exotically designed as a series of three completely open rooms climbingthe ridgeline. They are perched on the edge of a giant precipice lookingstraight down the valley between the Pitons. It is hard not to exclaim "Wow!" when you first see it. The view fromthe top room, the Tree Frog Bar, looks right through both other rooms to thebright blue swimming pool set in a flower garden below and gives a spectacular3-D effect within the hotel and beyond to a dramatic Pitons view.

You can come for lunch, dinner, or just a drink. Lunch is, ofcourse, a great time for the view, though if you arrive for an early cocktail,dinner offers you both a day and night perspective with the chance of a dramaticsunset. Nights are spectacular with a bright moon. Gourmets will prefer eveningswhen the gold-medal-winning chef creates a dinner as a fitting accompaniment tothe view. It is easiest to call Dasheene, and they will arrange a taxi to takeyou up for a reasonable fee (about $10 US). The energetic can walk up toDasheene from Malgretout. (Walk up the Jalousie road away from Petit Piton, turnright on the main road, and keep going; it is a good long hike.) You can alsotake a taxi or bus from Soufriere. It is a long but pleasant walk back down.While there, do not miss their new boutique, which stocks local crafts, books,and essentials.

Three restaurants lie on the road between Soufriere and thetop of the hill on your way towards Castries. All are on the left side as you walk uphill away from Soufriere, and all arewithin walking distance, but La Haut is quite a hike. All have great views overSoufriere, and all have swimming pools that restaurant guests are welcome touse.

La Haut Plantation [$C-D] is highest up the hill, but theview is worth the trip. La Haut has a spectacular panorama of the Pitons, whichhas been greatly enhanced by a brilliant display of bougainvillea and gingerplanted in the foreground. I cannot imagine a more photogenic view. The groundshave been artfully gardened and include little fishponds, and many people findthem rewarding for birdwatching. Owner/Manager Stephanie Allain is a Canadian,and her staff offer local food, with recipes that have been enhanced by ideasfrom the outside. Prices are reasonable, so you get a good deal, with theperfect view thrown in. If you like to hike, La Haut is a reasonable distance(one and a half miles) uphill from Soufriere. There are not many other placesyou can hike to with such a rewarding destination. For the less energetic, La Haut is on the main bus route to Castries, but abetter bet is to call them, and they will arrange a reasonably priced taxi foryou.

Mago Estate Hotel [$A], managed by Steffen from Germany, isthe closest to Soufriere. You can chance a shortcut by trying the long concretesteps that are cut into the hill before the main entrance ~ but they are notsignposted. This is an upmarket, elegant establishment; you can dress up if youwant to. They have an amazing wall in the restaurant, a giant boulder left inplace during building ~ with a chimney cut right thought the center, making oneof the world's more impressive fireplaces. The bar with the pool and the view,plus lots of tropical foliage, evoke a feeling of romance. The food isfirst-rate ~ each day the chef produces a menu that includes a choice of seafoodand meat dishes.

In between these two is Villa de Pitons [$C-D]. This has aninteresting and rather quaint atmosphere, with lots of rooms linked by manysteps around a central swimming pool with a fountain and wonderful, locallypainted murals all over the walls, as well as some super batiks. Dora and Michael offer a fairly eclecticmenu with interesting-looking dishes from the Caribbean and other exotic places,many featuring seafood. They are open from breakfast to dinner with a lighterlunch menu (items like seafood crepe newberg), and have occasionalentertainment.

The Sulphur Springs, between Ladera Resort and Soufriere,look like a scene straight from hell, with barren, brightly colored earth,bubbling pools, and huge spurts of steam. More scenic and pleasant are thenaturally hot Diamond Baths, built by Louis the 16th (a fair walk or short rideout the back of town). Take a few dollars and your towel, and you can luxuriatein these baths set amid a well-tended tropical garden. Start at the top, wherethe indoor baths are the hottest and most therapeutic, and then graduate to theoutside pools.

The rain forest area 'near Morne Fond St. Jacques offersexquisite views for walking or hiking. The road is sometimes bad, so you mayhave to ask around to find a taxi driver willing to take you there. You are required to have aguide and pay a fee when hiking in the rain forest reserve, but walking on theroad leading to it, amid the lush vegetation with hidden glimpses of the Pitonsbelow, is also beautiful. For hikes into the rain forest ask the SMMA to callthe forestry department. They have knowledgeable guides in the Soufriere areawho can arrange to come and take you on a rainforest tour. (They can providetransportation from the nearest dock). One of the most interesting is a 2.5 hourloop tour to the Maho waterfalls. Take your bathing things for a shower in thefall and a swim in the pool above it.

The Marine Park has put in moorings towards the southern endof the beach. You will need to take a line ashore. I recommend calling HarmonyBeach, and Benny will come tie you for free. Otherwise, agree on a price inadvance ($10 EC is fair). If you would prefer to do it yourself, say so.

At the southern end of the beach, under a blue roof, is Bennyand Marcelene's Harmony Beach Restaurant and Bar [VHF:16, $C-D]. Benny is wellaware of the needs of yachts and is most helpful. His familie's land is about100 acres and continues way back up the hill. One of the great things abouteating at Harmony Beach is that you don't need to launch your dinghy. Benny will send Benny Junior in a giant pirogueto pick you up anywhere in the Soufriere area, and they watch your yacht whileyou are at the restaurant (all part of the service). Marcelene is an excellentcook. You will love the Creole fish, and you eat with a great view of Malgretoutand Soufriere Bay. Everything is cooked from scratch, they use all freshingredients, and the prices are very reasonable. They also have an internet cafeand laundry. If you want to go hiking or climb the Pitons, one of Benny'srelatives will act as a guide; they also organize taxi tours through friends.

Anse Mitan [$C-D] is the name of a local restaurant builtjust above the sand right in the middle of Malgretout beach. Owner Julian Alexisis the manager of Soufriere Fisheries, so if he cannot get fresh fish no onecan. They open 1130 every day, and stay open till after dinner. However, if theyhave no guests, they close at 2000, so get there before then to be sure ofeating. They specialize in good local Creole food, especially seafood, and havea menu that includes both meals and snacks. The restaurant is right opposite theyacht moorings, so you can watch your own yacht while you eat ashore. They also offer free water taxi rides to therestaurant.

Just above the anchorage you can see the new StonefieldEstate [$B-C], managed by Aly Brown. This elegant family- run hotel has a lovelyrestaurant area with a swimming pool and view over the yachts. Trails lead tosome excellent examples of Carib petroglyphs. If you walk uphill to the concreteJalousie road and keep going uphill (away from the Pitons), the estate is toyour left and is marked.

Jah I's used to offer visits to an attractive, small, hotwaterfall. However, Abu, the owner, has now taken it over and"improved" it with concrete bathing pools, which, when filling,deprive the small stream of water and have killed considerable aquatic life. Hecharges an entry fee of $3 US. Either he or his assistant, Poison (named afterhis years dealing with agricultural pests), will greet you.

If you turn left on the upper concrete road (heading towardsthe main road), you will pass Zakka Masks, a shop selling the best hand-paintedmasks in St. Lucia.

Diving and snorkeling are good around Petit Piton.

BETWEEN THE PITONS

Moorings are available in the area shown near Bang andthe Jalousie Hilton Marina. If your maneuvering skills are insufficient topick up a mooring, you will have offers from local water taxis and othersto help. Do not feel obliged to accept such offers. Note that the wind andcurrent can be strong in this area, and that the current is sometimesagainst the wind. This area is sometimes calm, sometimes roily, and it canchange with the tides.

The beach between the Pitons is now part of JalousieHilton [$A], one of the Windward's fanciest and prettiest resorts. You canpull your dinghy up on the beach or, at night, leave it on the watersports dock. (Ask first!)

The Jalousie Hilton [$A] is open to the public and has fourrestaurants. There is a full spa with a massage center, facials, hairdressers,saunas, and hot tubs. You can pay a day-fee for use of the beach chairs andfacilities including some water sports, the tennis courts, kids' learningcenter, pool tables, and other hotel amenities. All kinds of tours and rentalcars can be arranged at the hotel. There are several boutiques. Check out theTivi Tivi boutique, right by the marina. Valerie, who runs it, is with Ben ofBen Taxi, so you can arrange for tours here. The shop itself has fine casualclothing, swimwear, accessories, and essentials such as sunblock. Local booksand some souvenirs are also on sale.

Right next door to Jalousie, but completely separate, is Bang[$B-D], a charming place owned by the English Lord Glenconner. Having spentyears involved with the very upper crust of international society, including thedevelopment of Mustique, Lord Glenconner has grown Caribbean roots, and hislatest venture is a collection of artistically designed local houses. His littlevillage includes an authentic rum shop, a charming boutique, and arestaurant/coffee shop.

Bang opens about 1100 and stays open to about 2300. The foodis simple and delightful ~ lunch includes sandwiches and salads and fresh juicesfrom the estate. The salad nicoise, made with fresh local fish, is excellent.They make their own ice cream, which you can also eat with some of theirdelightfully decadent cakes. The dinner menu offers fresh local fish, chicken,shrimps, and lobster (when available) from the grill. Jerk (spicy) chicken and fish arespecialties.

Then there is the famous Wednesday party, a delightfullycrowded and crazy event with anything and everything from acrobats tofire-eating. On this night they offer a set meal($31US).

You can tie your dinghy to the big dock at the Hilton nextdoor, or make life easy and use Helper, who is around from 1600 and ferriespeople ashore. He is paid by Bang, but tips are welcome.

Guides are available here if you wish to climb Gros Piton.

The dive around the base of Petit Pi-ton is one of St.Lucia's greatest. Start from close to the beach, and explore at whatever depthyou feel comfortable. There are wonderful sponges, good coral formations, and anextraordinary variety offish. Sometimes huge schools of fish make magicalpatterns in the sunlight. Apart from reef fish, such as angelfish, blue chromis, parrotfish, scorpionfish, anddamselfish, there are lots of hunters out there; jacks and snappers swim infair-sized schools, and occasionally one sees a monster fish. The snorkelinghere is also quite good. Another good site for both snorkeling and scuba isunde.r Gros Piton, just below the prominent cliff. A sloping drop off withplenty of fish and coral goes down to great depths. There are sometimes currentsin this area.

Action Adventure divers will take you, or you can check outthe Jalousie dive shop.

The trip from the Pitons to Vieux Fort is a tough one,against both wind and current. There are reefs extending about half-a-mileoffshore between Choiseul and Laborie, so this coast is best given a goodclearance. There are no good, easily accessible anchorages until you reach VieuxFort.

Tired of sharing the Caribbean with too many other visitors?For something really local, try Vieux Fort. Many of the old wooden houses havegreat character and are decorated with old gfngerbread. The people are generallyfriendly and welcoming, and the recent addition of shopping malls and thefishing port has made it more amenable for visiting yachts.

The anchorage is well protected, and a long walk (or shortride) away is one of the Caribbean's most magnificent windward beaches; a beachso long you can guarantee half a mile or so to yourself. It is an obviouspick-up or drop-off point for those arriving or leaving from Hewanorra, St.Lucia's largest airport.

The sail to Vieux Fort from the Pitons is a beat to windward,often against the current. It takes several hours in a weatherly boat. Keep wellclear of the reef that stretches about half-a-mile offshore between Choiseul andLaborie.

The most convenient anchorage for getting ashore is west ofthe new fishing port. Leave the green marker to port as you approach. You cananchor between the marker and the western wall in 10-20 feet of water, oroutside the green marker in 25 feet of water. (Be careful of the large shoalthat lies along the northern wall of the fishing harbor and extends both northand west.) Here you are close to town and can leave your dinghy in the fishingport. You can also tie it up in the port (see Services).

You can also anchor in the main port area in either of thebays southwest of the large ship harbor marked on our chart. You need to besouth of all the beacons. Shoals extend from the shore, so approachcautiously. To enter the first bay, pass to the west of the big rusty post justoutside the bay, as there is a shoal inside this post towards the shore. Thesecond bay is far more scenic, with some passable snor-keling. A shoal comes outfrom the middle of the bay; you can anchor either side of it, or outside it.Avoid catching your anchor on the wreck at 13°42.9N, 60°57.3W

The large ship port is run by the St. Lucia Marine Terminals.They are not geared for yachts but have been quite helpful. You can often leaveyour dinghy alongside the roll-on dock to the north of the main pier. You cannotleave it here when the dock is in use. For town, use the fishingport.

Vieux Fort is an official port of entry, and customs may be found at the head of the large ship dock.You may have to travel 2 miles to the airport to clear immigration, though youmight get lucky and catch an immigration official visiting the port. Bycompensation, no port fees are being collected ~ no guarantees that it willcontinue that way.

Wegosite.com is an internet cafe and travel agent at thefront of the Courtyard Mall (next building from the big Singer sign). They open0900-1730.

The Reef over on the beach also has an internet station.Telephone calls may be made from Kimatri hotel.

Water, ice, and outboard fuel are available in the fishingport on the eastern dock.

You can also stay overnight in the fishing harbor if youwant. If the right person is around, you may be charged $20 EC a night. Thereare no dockside services. Go stem-to wherever you can find room on the northwestwall. Andrew Jean, a fisherman, is often around (459-3414), and has amooring (deadman) he would probably let you use if you asked.

The fishing port is also the best place to leave your dinghy.Put it in the northwest corner on the dock. Lock it up, and if leaving it atnight, ask the security guard in the locked part of the harbor to keep an eye onit for you, and give him a tip when you come back.

Depths in the fishing harbor are about 6 feet close to theeastern dock, where you get water, and about 7-8 feet further out, where you canstay the night.

You will find outboard gas at the new fishing port. (If theydo not have it there they can direct you to a gas station.) Cooking gas isavailable at the gas depot just outside the deep-water port.

Some nautical hardware is available from the Napa shop in the mall.

Strange though it may seem, Vieux Fort is one of the verybest places to deal with both your new boat linens and mattresses. Lubeco, whichis owned by Stephanie Allain, who also has La Haute in Soufriere, is a beddingfactory. They supply both fitted and flat sheets for any size bunk (take apattern) and have really nice fabrics in many designs, including 100 percentcotton. They also have a foam factory and produce good-quality, high-densityfoam mattresses. They can make these to any shape, including all the odd shapesboats have. Unlike a foam slab, you get it properly finished with a quiltedcover, which adds comfort. Lubeco is in the industrial estate just off the roadto Laborie, and for years they have supplied box-spring beds and linens tohotels and retail outlets throughout the Caribbean.

Shopping is good. One large supermarket is in the mall by theroundabout. The even bigger Gablewoods South is a few miles down the main roadheading towards Laborie. Fruits and vegetables in town are good and lessexpensive than in Castries. The fish market in the fishing harbour offers greatbuys on fresh fish.

Several restaurants ashore make Vieux Fort a pleasantdestination.

Antonia's Old Plantation Yard [$D] on Commercial Street is awonderful lunch place full of character. You eat in a big courtyard shaded bybreadfruit trees and decorated with a big old pirogue. Antonia cooks up reallyauthentic local dishes on a series of earthenware coalpots out in the courtyard.Eat first-rate local stews and dishes you won't find in most other more modernCreole restaurants ~ very inexpensive and great fun.

The Kimatrai [$B-C] stands on the hill overlooking the yachtanchorage. It is an old fashioned kind of hotel, cool and breezy, with amarvelous view of the harbor. It is open all day and is a great place to hangout, relax, write postcards, play pool, and catch up on your diary or watchcable TV.

It has the perfect location for sunset. They serve snacks andmeals, and the food is generally good.

When you are ready for some beach time, try hanging out atThe Reef [$C-D, closed Monday evening]. The owner, Cecile Wiltshire, is asoftware engineer and runs the local internet site slucia.com (not stlucia). Youcan check up on your emails here. The Reef is open for both lunch and dinner,serving local dishes at very reasonable prices. Seamoss and coconut water,saltfish bakes, Iambi, lobster, and squid are on the menu. The Reef collectsinteresting people, makes a great hangout, and is an excellent place to spend afew hours. Point Sand is another restaurant near by.

Cecile is also a windsurfing/surfkiting instructor and, nextto her restaurant, is her Mistral Center with all the latest boards andinternational instructors. The Mistral Center normally opens from November toJune. This is also a good place to buy secondhand gear, as they replace theequipment every year.

Just down the beach from The Reef is similar center calledTornado run by an Italian, Elena Sparta. This also has excellent and modernequipment by F2 and it is open year round.

East of Vieux Fort are the Maria Islands, a nature reserveand home to a species of lizard and a snake unknown anywhere else in the world.The National Trust building is right beside The Reef and you can arrange for aguided trip.

The energetic should hike up to the Moule a Chique lighthousefor the view.

There is a great art-and-craft center at Choiseul, accessibleby bus or taxi, which has baskets, carvings, seed jewelry, pottery, andhousehold items made from natural local materials.

Laborie is between Vieux Fort and Choiseul, and you couldvisit both while adventuring. Laborie is a sweet and unspoiled fishing villagewith considerable charm. There is even a small and slightly roily anchoragehere. I have often observed it from the shore, though I have not yet sailed into check it out. Florence Bo, a French woman, fell in love with a piece of thebeach, bought the land, and has created the pleasant, informal Mirage Hotel andrestaurant on the beach just west of the village. This is a great stop for lunch(and interesting as an away-from-it-all spot for stayovers). I would advisecalling in advance if you want to be sure of getting fed.

	Введите условия поиска Отправить форму поиска на сайте все яхты Web