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Martinigue

Customs offices are in Fort de France, Marin, and St. Pierre.Yachts present in Martinique waters for more than six months in one year areliable to import duty, which you can avoid if you want to leave your yacht inMartinique while you fly abroad. Visas are not necessary for EU or US citizens.Other nationals should check to see if they need a visa. Customs in each porthas its own opening times, which are given in the harbor sections. There are noovertime fees and no charges to yachts. Foreign yachts need nationalregistration. This is most often a problem with US yachts using stateregistration.

A 5-knot speed limit is in effect within 300 meters of allcoastline.

Shops often open 0800-1200 and 1500-1730, Monday throughSaturday. Many offices close on Saturday. Supermarkets open at 0800 or 0900 andstay open till 1900.

Jan 1, New Year's Day

Jan 2, Recovery Day

Carnival, Monday to Wednesday, 40 days before Easter. Feb 7-9, 2005 and Feb 27-29, 2006 Easter Friday through Monday, March 25-28, 2005 and April 14-17, 2006 May 1, Labor Day May 8, Victory Day (1945)May 22, Abolition of Slavery Ascension Day, May 5, 2005 and May 25, 2006 July 14, Bastille Day August 15, Virgin Mary Day Nov 1, All Saints Day Nov11, Victory Day (1918) Dec 25, Christmas Day

The Caribs called Martinique "Madinina" - Island ofFlowers. It is the largest of the Windwards and, apart from a few short spellsunder the British, has been French since it was colonized. It is a part ofFrance and feels it, with excellent roads and a thriving economy. Nearly everybay has a wonderful government-built dock, ideal for leaving your dinghy. Fortde France is a busy city, bustling with shoppers and cars. The smaller towns arequieter and some look so clean they could have just been scrubbed. Thattypically French smell ~ a blend of Gitane smoke, pastis, and well-percolatedcoffee ~ wafts from bars and cafes.

You can get almost anything done in Martinique ~ fromgalvanizing your boat to having stainless steel tanks made. The sailmakers arefirst rate, the chandleries magnificently stocked, and restaurants and boutiquesabound. In short, when you have had enough deserted beaches and raw nature,Martinique is the place for a breath of civilization. And the island has enough excellent and variedanchorages for a week or two of exploring. Choose bays with fashionable resortsor a sleepy waterfront villages or visit deserted bays with excellent snorkeling.Well-marked trails make hiking a delight.

The Empress Josephine grew up in Martinique on a 200-acre,150-slave estate near Trois Ilets. A strange quirk of fate links Josephine andMartinique to the Battle of Trafalgar. In 1804, Napoleon was master of Europe,but the British still had naval supremacy and largely controlled Caribbeanwaters. However, ships were always scarce and some bright spark noticed thatDiamond Rock on the south coast of Martinique was just about where the Britishwould station another vessel if they had one, so they commissioned the rock as aship. It was quite a feat to climb this steep, barren, snake-infested pinnacleand to equip it with cannons and enough supplies and water for a full crew ofmen. But they succeeded and for some 18 months

H.M.S. Diamond Rock was a highly unpleasant surprise forunsuspecting ships sailing into Martinique. Napoleon was incensed; this was,after all, the birthplace of his beloved Josephine. Brilliant as he was on land,Napoleon never really understood his navy or its problems and considered his mento be shirkers. Consequently, he ordered them to sea under Admiral Villeneuve,to free the rock and destroy the British admiral Horatio Nelson while they wereabout it. Villeneuve slipped out under the British blockade in France and headedstraight for Martinique. Lord Nelson, with his well trained and battle-readyfleet, smelled blood and bounty and hurtled off from England in hot pursuit.However, poor information sent him on a wild goose chase to Trinidad, soVilleneuve was able to liberate the rock and return to France, prudently keepingwell clear of Nelson.

Napoleon was none too pleased with Villeneuve because theBritish fleet was still in control of the high seas, so he was ordered to reportin disgrace. Villeneuve preferred death to dishonor, so he put his ill-preparedfleet to sea to fight Nelson at the Battle of Trafalgar. Ironically, Villeneuve,who wished to die, survived the battle, and Nelson died.

Today Martinique is very civilized and while it helps tospeak French, it is not absolutely necessary. Many more locals now speak Englishand they are generally helpful. If you want the help of a good phrase book,check out Kathy Parsons French for Cruisers.

Most restaurants and businesses accept Visa and MasterCard.However, one or two only accept French cards. Ask before that seven-course meal,or you may spend many hours washing dishes.

The west coast (excluding the Bay of Fort de France) up to St.Pierre is mainly steep-to, and a quarter of a mile offshore clears any naturaldangers. However, when navigating near Case Pilote be careful of the defunctfish farm anchored about a quarter of a mile offshore, which extends about halfa mile to seaward just south of Case Pilote. A mass of nets is anchored in placeand buoyed; the markers are unreliable.

The Bay of Fort de France has many shoals, especially at itseastern end. Check the charts and instructions given under the appropriatesection.

The south coast of Martinique between Ste. Anne and DiamondRock has several shoals extending up to a half mile offshore. Fish traps areplentiful and two or three are often tied together. It is best to stay inseveral hundred feet of water, outside the heavily fished area. The current hereusually runs to the west so if you are cruising to Martinique from St. Lucia, itis easier to go first to Marin and Ste. Anne, leaving an easy downwind trip toFort de France. If you do go visit Fort de France first, the beat to Marin is inprotected water and can be exhilarating.

St. Pierre lies at the foot of the Mt. Pelee volcano, not farfrom where European settlers wiped out the last of the Carib residents in 1658.It is said that before the last ones died they uttered horrible curses, invokingthe mountain to take its revenge. Mt. Pelee, in true Caribbean fashion, took itsown sweet time, until Ascension Day, the 8th of May, in 1902.

At this time, St. Pierre, with a population of 30,000, wasknown as the Paris of the Caribbean and was the commercial, cultural, and socialcenter of Martinique. The wealth of the island lay in the plantations and therichest of these surrounded St. Pierre. Ships would take on rum, sugar, coffee,and cocoa, and enough was sold to make several of the plantation ownersmulti-millionaires. There were also enough cheap bars, brothels, and dancinggirls to satisfy the sailors.

The volcano gave plenty of warning. Minor rumblings beganearly in April and before dawn on the 2nd of May a major eruption covered thecity with enough ash to kill some birds and animals. Later the same day, PierreLaveniere, a planter with an estate to the south of St. Pierre, went to inspecthis crops with a party of workers and they were swept away by a vast avalancheof boiling volcanic mud. On the fifth of May, it was the turn of the GuerinEstate, just a couple of miles north of St. Pierre and one of the richest in thearea. A torrent of volcanic effluent, including mud, lava, boiling gasses, androcks, estimated to be a quarter of a mile wide and 100 feet high, completelyburied the estate.

Even before Ascension Day, many people had been killed in andaround St. Pierre. So why did people stay? Governor Mouttet, on the island forless than a year, couldn't cope with the huge responsibility of evacuating Martinique's mostimportant city. He desperately wanted the problem to go away and was encouragedto sit tight by most of the planters and business leaders who would havesuffered financial losses if the city were evacuated.

Evacuation would also have affected the coming elections inwhich black voters were seriously challenging the status quo for the first time.A committee was put in place to monitor the volcano and those in charge enlistedthe support of the local paper, Les Colonies, to persuade people thatthere was no danger, despite the deaths. A few individuals had the sense toleave, but for the rest the destruction of such an important city wasunimaginable.

Many were eyewitnesses to the disaster. People wereapproaching from Fort de France for the Ascension Day church service when theysaw heavy, red smoke from the volcano descend on St. Pierre. Rather thancontinue, they climbed the surrounding hills to see what would happen next. Theend came at two minutes past eight in the morning. The side of the volcanofacing St. Pierre glowed red and burst open, releasing a giant fireball ofsuperheated gas that flowed down over the city, releasing more energy than anatomic bomb. All that remained were smoking ruins. An estimated 29,933 peopleburned to death, leaving only two survivors in the town; Leon Leandre, a cobblerwho was in his cellar, and the famous Cyparis, imprisoned for murder in a stonecell. Twelve ships in the bay were destroyed at anchor. One managed to limp awaywith a few survivors.

Many ruins still remain. Post-disaster buildings have beenbuilt onto old structures, so many new buildings share at least one wall withthe past. Ruins also form garden walls, and some have been tidied up ashistorical icons. A museum in a modern building depicts that era and the tragedy.It stands on top of old walls that are artistically lit up at night, making anenchanting backdrop for those anchored below.

St. Pierre makes a good overnight anchorage except when there are heavy northerly swells. Thereis an adequate shelf on which to anchor, about 25 feet deep, on either side ofthe town dock. The dropoff is very steep, so make sure you are well hooked.Occasionally you have to move for local fishermen. You will not be in their wayclose to the dock or behind the fishing fleet at the northern end of the harbor.A conspicuous statue on the hill at the southern end of town is lit at night.

The customs office is down the hill beyond the theatre ruins.It is rarely manned. Take a lucky charm and visit at 1245 and you migh t catchan officer going in for lunch. It is probably easier to catch a communal taxi toFort de France (about 40 minutes away) and clear there.

L'Escapade is a good internet cafe and is open daily0900-2200, except Wednesday when they close at 1400.

You will find more sport than marine items in Mer et Sport,but it is a good store and worth checking out.

If you get permission from the town hall, you may be able tocome alongside the town dock to take on water. It is also a good place to tieyour dinghy. You can do your own wash at the automatic machines near thewaterfront or L'auxiliaire, near the river mouth, will do it for you. You cknget your dinghy close to the north gas station for fuel.

Some excellent services can be found in the Cite Artisanaleon the edge of town. PBS is the only propeller and stern gear specialist in theWindwards. It is owned by Celestin and his family and run by a son, Emmanuel.They balance, rebuild, and repair broken propellers of all materials and buildor repair shafts up to 2 inches in diameter. They stock many propellers, cutlassbearings, stern glands, and anodes and are sales and service agent for FranceHelices, who can supply anything related to boat propulsion. They pick up anddeliver to Martinique's other marine centers. Their shop includes machining gearand TIG welding gear and they can weld aluminum, stainless, and bronze. There isnot much you can break that cannot be fixed between PBS and Proto Mecanext door.

Proto Meca is owned and run by Jean-Michel Trebeau, whotrained as an aviation machinist in France and now has a first rate shop.Anything you can break, he can fix, be it in stainless, aluminum, or bronze. Hewelds these metals and does all kinds of machining. He can rebuild your engineand resurface the block. In the same compound you will find three carpenters.

The waterfront area has been renovated and includes anelegant replica of the old financial center. There are a couple of banks, andpharmacies, and a convenient little 8 a Huit supermarket that closes for lunchand half an hour earlier than its name suggests. It also opens Sunday mornings.Two other supermarkets, Nord Cash near the cathedral, and Ecomax over the bridge,offer a more limited range but are inexpensive. The market is good in the earlymorning and best on Friday and Saturday mornings. Shops in St. Pierre nowinclude clothing boutiques, souvenir shops, and places selling local fabrics.

Photographers can have print film developed at Imaphot alongthe waterfront road, heading north from the dock.

St. Pierre has lots of restaurants. Le Tamaya [$C-D, closedWednesday] is run by Jean and Jeanne Teissier who arrived in Martinique by yacht.This excellent little restaurant is smart and clean, with nautical decor, and both the food and presentation rank considerablyhigher than the reasonable prices charged. (Tamaya won the silver medal given bythe Antilles Gastronomic Acadamy in 2002.) Seafood is always available, as aretasty desserts. The owners do not speak English, but they do have a lot ofEnglish-speaking clients, and the menu has an English translation.

L'Escapade [$D], one block south of Le Tamaya, is theinternet cafe. They are also a pizzeria and serve local dishes. Le Caraibes isvery popular come sunset, with its tables right out on the new waterfrontpromenade. They serve meals and often have entertainment. Next door is Tai Loong,a Chinese snack bar. On the west side of the road, La Vague [$B-C] has animpressive waterfront location and you can get lunch here.

North along the watefront, Courtes Flammes [$C-D] is a smallrestaurant facing the bay. Owner Lucretia speaks English and serves Creole foodat a reasonable price. A few steps farther down, Philippe Medelice's La Paillote[$C-D] is a pizza place and an ice cream parlor, offering those fancy Frenchconcoctions, as well as daily specials. Le Central, opposite, offers Creole food.These are sometimes open in the evenings.

South along the waterfront, Antonio Beach and Caldeira Beachare pleasantly open to the sea open for lunch only. If you need to clear customs,Blue des lies is perfectly located to watch for arriving officers, and servesCreole food.

For the energetic, there is a great lunch-time walk (about anhour). Look at our map and walk uphill to the statue. Enjoy the spectacular view.Return a few hundred feet to the first corner, then turn right downhill on thetrail. You will pass a great old battery and arrive at the Papillon (butterfly)garden in Anse Latouche. A little river runs through it and there are indeedlots of butterflies. (It is not a butterfly zoo; all the butterflies are nativeand wild.) You can also view a fascinating collection of extraordinary SouthAmerican insects. Since you have come in the back way you will have to pay theentrance charge on the way out, but this entitles you to a glass of fresh fruitjuice from the garden. You exit right into Restaurant 1643 [$C-D] where you caneat lunch on an open patio and listen to the wind in the trees and the sounds ofbirds and insects. Owner/chef Balland Didier cooks traditional French and Creoledishes. It is just a 15-minute walk back by the main road, but take care. It isa busy road with no sidewalk.

You can also dinghy a mile north to Le Guerin for a lunch.This restaurant is in the historic site of the old Guerin Sugar factory that wasdestroyed by the volcano, and if you take your snorkeling things you can seesome remains under the water. Owners Livia and Simon come from St. Pierre andtheir families date back to the time of the volcano. Livia's East Indian familycame here to start a jewelry business back in 1850. They are not only delightfulpeople, but produce some of the best Creole cooking on the island. Livia'sparticular specialties are the local freshwater crayfish and various sharkrecipes. The restaurant is on the edge of a cliff with a good view of the bay.There are steps down to the beach where you can leave your dinghy.

St. Pierre sits amid the most magnificent scenery inMartinique, so if you are thinking of sightseeing, this is an excellent place tobegin. Rental cars are available from Eugene Garage and Pop's Car. Before youtake off, visit the tourist office (currently at the top of the hill beyond themuseum) to collect a bunch of maps marking the local attractions. Ask for theirexcellent map of St. Pierre and the surrounding district. Their maps will getyou to the hiking trails and more detailed maps of the trails are posted by thetrail parking areas.

The museum on the hill is dedicated to the 1902 eruption. Itopens daily 0900-1200 and 1500-1700. There is a small admission charge. Two ofthe most interesting places to visit are the theater ruins beyond the museum andthe prison where Cyparis was jailed, which is just below the theater (no charge).There is another more general history museum across the road.

It is a half-hour walk to Distillerie Depaz, and those usedto hiking can make it, or you can take a taxi. The distillery is in lovely grounds with a waterfall and there is no charge tovisit. The machinery is run by a steam engine and this is a perfect place tolearn why that French white rum makes such distinctive Petite Punch.

Plantation Ceron, north of Precheur, escaped the volcaniceruption and is a fine example of what the plantations were like before 1902.The gardens are a perfect antidote to boats, and you can spend as long as youlike wandering around the shady estate gardens built along a river. There is anentry charge and it can be crowded. Afterwards, you can return to the road andhead north. When the road ends, a footpath continues all the way to GrandRiviere on the north coast.

In the mountains to the south of St. Pierre, there is anextraordinary walk along the Canal de Beauregard. Built by slaves in 1760, thiscanal brought water around a steep mountain to supply the distilleries of St.Pierre. It is most interesting to start at the bottom end of the canal and walktowards the source. The canal is fairly level, often shady, and easy, but youmust have a head for heights, for you walk along the outer canal wall, which isabout 18 inches wide, and the panoramic views are often diz-zyingly precipitous.

If the weather is clear, the energetic can hike up Mont Pelee.A road takes you within a mile and a half of the summit. Turn right just at theentrance to Precheur on the Chameuse Road. Non-hikers can enjoy the view fromthe top of the road.

For a scenic drive, the rainforest starts behind St. Pierreand the road up to the conspicuous volcanic observatory is impressive. However,the road from the observatory to the rainforest crossroads still marked on mostmaps has been impassable for years and you have to approach by Morne Rouge. Whenyou reach the main crossroads in the middle of the rainforest, turn south andlook for a tiny road, barely the width of a car, which goes to St. Joseph. Itmay be marked "impassable," but venture down it as far as possible.

Gorges de la Falaise are dramatic waterfalls in a narrowcanyon on the east side of Mt. Pelee. The hike takes about an hour and a half from the entrance and it is closed in heavy rains.

Art lovers should stop at nearby Carbet to see the museumabout Gauguin. It includes letters, documents, artifacts, and a show of copiesof Gauguin paintings. Carbet also has a water park for kids.

Twelve wrecks of ships that sank in the tragedy of 1902 arenearby, most within dinghy range of the anchorage, and at depths of from 30 to150 feet. The best way to find them is to dive with a local dive shop. Otherwise,watch the local dive boats, which visit them frequently. In addition, the northcoast has the best diving in Martinique, with dramatic walls, canyons, and reefs,and many more fish than you find further south.

If you are diving on your own, there is an easy dive rightoff the beach in front of the big wall under the museum. It is a good reef,dropping from 40 to 90 feet, decorated with old anchors, a huge old chain drapedover the coral, and plenty offish.

Plongee Passion and Papa D'Lo, two dive shops, are on thefront street north of the main dock.

Case Pilote is a delightful small town whose pretty church isone of the oldest in Martinique. It is a picturesque little fishing port with afish processing plant that sometimes works. This place is charming and unspoiledand the locals have no intention of having it becoming another yacht haven.Anchorage outside the port is limited by the needs of the active

fishing fleet, and when the fishermen put out seine nets atabout 0500 hours they will wake anyone they feel is in their way. To avoid this,anchor well inshore on the northwest side of the bay (see our sketch chart). Goin as close as you dare, drop your hook, then back down and use a second anchorto keep your stern to any swells and to stop you from riding up on the beach. Oranchor just round the headland off the next small bay to the northwest in about25 feet of water and use your dinghy to go to the port.

Be careful of the defunct fish farm anchored about a quarterof a mile offshore that extends about half a mile to seaward just south of CasePilote. A mass of nets is anchored in place and buoyed; the markers areunreliable. The yellow buoy just outside the port is a sewage outflow marker

There are no customs in Case Pilote, so you must clear in ata port of entry. If you are staying here for more than a few hours, you shouldvisit the police station with your ship's papers, including your inwardclearance.

Frank Agren's Inboard Diesel is right at the entrance to theport. Frank is the main Volvo Penta dealer for the Windwards and does Volvosurveys and diagnostics throughout the Eastern Caribbean. He does warranty workand can supply spares at somewhat cheaper prices than you might pay in otherislands. He has a hot line to the factory and, being Swedish, he speaks the samelanguage as the engine. Anyone having Volvo Penta problems should give him acall. Frank and his team are now also a fully qualified sales and service agencyfor Northern Lights Generators. Those visiting Frank can come inside the portwhere he has about three reserved spaces. Frank speaks perfect English and ishappy to work on other diesels, time permitting. A large supply of new andsecondhand spares is kept in stock, as well as some new engines and generators.

Marc Eugene at Renovboats does first

class fiberglass repair and spray painting. His expandedworkshop is now in Schoelcher, but he used to work in Case Pilot and still hasan office there and some mobile equipment, so he is happy to do work here or inFort de France.

Diesel can be fetched from the gas station in jugs.

Case Pilote is charming and quiet. The church is worth avisit and it is pleasant to stroll around the town. For topping up provisions,visit 8 a Huit, whose name gives you their weekday hours. They also open Sundaysand holidays in the morning.

Snack Bar de La Plage [$D] is right on the waterfront andChantal, the owner, is very pleasant. She opens about 0900 and stays open allday as a bar. For lunch she offers a variety of local dishes, all simple anddelicious. The coffee du maison leaves something to be desired, but the rest isgreat.

Snack le Pilote [$D] in the main square opens from 0915-1500and 1800-2100. They serve tasty daily specials and in the evening they fire upthe pizza oven.

Diving and snorkeling off the headland just south of themarina are very good. Huge rocks rise from 70 feet and the whole area is filled with brightly colored sponges, corals, and fish. Ifyou don't have your own gear, contact the Case Pilote Diving Club. For thoseinterested in wildlife, there is a bat cave in the cliffs behind the snorkelingarea.

Originally called Case Navire, this town was famous for itsabundance of water (two main rivers), which made it an important stopping placefor ships of old. It was renamed after Victor Schoelcher, the anti-slaveryadvocate, and now covers a large area bisected by the main west coast highway.Schoelcher covers a large area but the waterfront part is easily accessible toyachts and has the atmosphere of a tiny town on its own. It is an aternativeanchorage to Fort de France. Pleasant beaches cover much of the coast.Schoelcher lies just west of Fort de France in cleaner water and prettiersurroundings with a good (15 minute) bus service between the two.

There is a good anchoring shelf in front of the town or offAnse Madam. You can tie your dinghy to the town dock, though you will need adinghy anchor. The waterfront adjoining the dock is a park area. Anse Madam hasa long beach and is home to one of the largest and best sailing schools in thearea.

Ashore

Within easy walking distance you'll find an 8 a Huitsupermarket and some informal bars.

The Madiana Center is also within walking distance for thereasonably energetic. This popular conference and entertainment center has thebest cinema in Martinique. (On Thursdays they show movies in their originallanguage.) The 3 Brasseurs in the center will delight pub aficionados. They havea microbrewery on site so their beers are good and they serve a variety of food,including many "flammes." These are akin to pizza but with a muchthinner crust.

For a major provisioning you will need a cab or a car tovisit the huge malls on the road to Fort de France. You can also try the LeaderPrice at Terreville. Go out of town and straight up the hill on the road toL'Enclos.

FORT DE FRANCE

Fort de France, the capital of Martinique, is the largest andliveliest city in the Windwards. It is a great place for people-watching, andshops and restaurants abound. The central Rue de la Republique has been turnedinto a delightful pedestrian street. Those wanting to explore Martinique cantake advantage of all the buses, which use the capital as their hub. You arealso close to chandleries and many yacht services. Over the last few years therehave been big upheavals as the new waterfront was built. Major construction isnow finished and with the new arrangements for yachts in place, it is, onceagain, a pleasant and easy place to visit.

Navigation

When approaching Fort de France from Cap Salomon, it is hard to see at a glance exactly where the harbor is asthe whole surrounding area is built up, including a huge hotel and someapartment blocks at Schoelcher, a couple of miles west of Fort de France. As youapproach, you can identify the main yacht anchorage by the prominent slab-sidedfort wall and all the yachts at anchor.

The new yachting anchorage is on the east side of the baybetween Fort St. Louis and a line between the red and yellow buoys in the centerof the bay. Leave the red buoy to starboard to avoid the isolated rocky shoal toits southeast. Charts show only about 5 feet on this shoal. I could not find anydepths much less than 7 feet, but there may be shallower rocks (see chart p.75).

The water is shallow and rocky if you get close to Fort St.Louis, but level in many areas once the depth reaches about 9 feet. Theanchorage is deeper (25-40 feet) towards the center of the bay for deep-draftyachts. Holding in the bay is variable in soft mud. Frequent ferries can makethe anchorage roily and we will have to see whether the speed limit will beenforced. You can also clear in here and then sail over to Anse Mitan, Anse aL'Ane, or Trois Ilets, which are connected to town by efficient ferries.

While construction continues, the old ferry dock is the newdinghy dock. Eventually, the waterfront walkway will continue round almost tothe beach with a small stern-to dock for taking on water.

If you need work done, you can find a work berth in the Baiedes Tourelles. (Make arrangements in advance and let the port captain know ofyour movements.) If you are heading east to get there (or southeast toward AnseMitan), keep well clear of the shoals off the fort. It is possible to cutsomewhat inside the green buoys, but to be on the safe side, go around them.

A big new Fort de France marina with a surrounding servicesarea is being built down by Pte. du Sable. Some construction has already begun,but it will not be ready for visitors for several years.

If you visit Fort de France by car, the easiest pay parkingis Vinci-parking in the block next to Sea Services. We indicate the way on ourtown plan.

The customs (douanes) office is shown on our Fort de Franceanchorage sketch chart (P75). It is on Av. Mitterand, at the turn off for Baiedes Tourelles, a 10-minute walk, and is open Monday to Friday 0700-1215, andMonday to Thursday 1430-1645. There are no overtime charges. Customs willeventually move even farther away. Luckily, you can clear out with Sea ServicesChandlery, and it looks like you may soon be able to clear in there as well.

Tony's Cyber Club is upstairs on Rue Francois Arago with ahigh-speed connection and pleasant work area. They open Monday 0800 to 2000,Tuesday to Saturday 0800-2200. The Web Cafe and Bar is on Rue Blenac just behindthe post office. It opens at 0930 Monday to Saturday and stays open until late.This is the best place to go if you need the support of good coffee or drinks,as it is a bar, but not if you are allergic to smoke. Difintel Micro, on Blvd.Allegre, is the cheapest, but you need to go between 0900 and 1100, as all the comput- a taxi (mornings only) to AntillesGas in ers are taken up with kids playing games af- Zone Industriel Californie. Thenearest ice ter 1100. is at the Esso station on the far side of the canal, beyond SeaServices.

General yacht services

La Savanne has small litter bins, but Tourelles run by Jean Marc Manyri. They no big garbage facility. For cooking gas, take offer fuel, water, oils, beer,coffee, ice cream, lunch sandwiches, and sundry items. They open 0600-1800except Sundays and holidays when they close at 1300. Large yachts requiring over7000 liters should try to give them a little notice. Charter yachts qualify forduty-free when they have cleared out. European boats have special papers, butother yachts should clearly mark on their customs papers they are charter yachtsif they wish to benefit from this.

Barnacles bugging you? Need a new stainless fuel tank? Thenew, clean yacht services compound in Baie des Tourelles should solve all yourproblems. You can dinghy there, bring the yacht, or check it out on foot. Thewalk to Quai des Tourelles is about 15 minutes from town. Head past Quai Queston the main road out of town towards Dillon. Turn right immediately after thebig customs (douanes) building on the right side of the road. Follow the roadand turn left at the junction. This leads you to the new basin. At the heart ofthis compound is a haul-out run by CarenAntilles who have a larger facility inMarin. The owners have also bought the old Chantier Grant across the creek thatis used mainly for docking and hauling power boats. The shallow parts of thecanal between the two have been dredged to about 11 feet.

The haul-out has a 35-ton marine hoist with artisans andengineers to do everything you need. Small boats can be stored on racks.Language is not a problem as most people speak some English.

If you are too long, wide, heavy, or ugly to haul elsewhere,you can arrange to he slipped alongside a ship in the huge Martinique dry dock,which will take anything up to a cruise ship (see also Marin services).

Sea Services, on Rue Deproge, is Martinique's largestchandlery. Owners Jacques and Ciarla speak perfect English (Ciarla is English-Canadian), so people having problems withFrench come by to seek advice on anything and everything. They can now help withoutward customs clearance and inward clearance is likely in the future. SeaServices is really two adjoining stores. The western store sells yacht gear,including International Paints, 3-M products, 316 stainless fasteners, tenders,life rafts, charts, and guides. They stock a good range of electrical equipment,from wire and connectors to solar panels, wind generators, stoves, barbecues,and batteries, They have everything to install that anchor winch your wife hasbeen wanting. Jacques loves to do rigging and they have a full rigging service, from a dinghylocking line upwards. Their on-the-spot swaging works for up to 12mm wire andthey do larger diameters by order. Sea Services regularly delivers antifoulingpaint to all Martinique haul-out facilities, and can arrange haul-out quantitiesduty-free for visiting yachts for use in Martinique or to take away.

The eastern part of Sea Services features decorative nauticalitems, tablewear, and linens and a large range of smart St. James casual wearfor men and women, as well as TBS sportswear. You will find lots of nauticalobjets d'art. Also between the two stores is a bookswap where you can get theCaribbean Compass. Sea Services is open weekdays right through from 0830-1715and on Saturdays from 0830-1230. If you are down island and need something, givethem a call, they can take your order, arrange credit card payment by fax, andFedex it to you.

Plus Nautique is a chandlery with outlets in Baie desTourelles and Marin. They stock and are agents for Mercury motors and Mecury andFob inflatables. They stock the Plastimo range of equipment (from electronics toblocks), and Facnor roller furling, all at discounted prices. In addition, theysell Sunfish and Lasers. Stainless tubing is always on hand as well as toilets,safety gear, fenders, and electrical fittings. They have a few secondhand itemson show. They open 0900-1300 and 1430-1730, Saturdays 0800-noon.

Mer et Sport has an outlet in CarenAn-tilles. This branch hasa little bit of everything ~ electrical, fishing gear, a little hardware, somepainting items, and lots of spare wheels for power boat owners needing toservice their trailers.

M. Josepha's Coopemar is also in CarenAntilles. It started asa basic fishermen's cooperative to get better prices on nets, lines, and otherfishing gear, and it has the best commercial fishing gear on the island. Asfishing has become more sophisticated, so has their range of products, and nowthey have all kinds of things that will appeal to yachtspeople, from fishinggear and jerry jugs to electronics and antifouling. They also stock some specialized yacht hardware,including blocks, and they sell good boating shoes.

Multicap Caraibes (Quai Quest) has a chandlery where you willbe helped by Jocelyne, who speaks good English. Basically, this shop sells allthe components that go into their new boats. They have a broad selection ofmaterials and fittings, including sheets of marine ply, resins, cloth, Andersenand Fredericksen winches, electrical panels, anchor winches, Morse cables,hatches, and light fittings. They are agents for Caribe dinghies and Susukioutboards, as well as many inboards. If you cannot find something, ask Jocelynewho can probably order it for you and have it shipped in.

Littoral, at 32-34 Blvd. Allegre, lies next to the canalwhere many of the local fishing boats tie up. Wander in and peruse theirwonderful selection of fishing equipment, probably the largest for sportsfishing in Martinique, along with snorkeling gear, ropes, diving knives, and some yacht chandlery.

Anyone need personal protection? Armes Levalois on RueDeproge sells small spray cans of CS gas and stun guns.

Most yachts services are to be found down at theCarenAntilles compound in Baie des Tourelles. Manu Voile is a sailmaking shopowned by Emmanuel Resin who has over 20 years experience. He has a young keenteam and will tackle anything from new sails to repairs, biminis, and cushions.They make new sails of any size. They computer-design the sails, contract outthe computer cutting, and sew the pieces up in their sail loft. Their locationright on the waterfront is very convenient for unloading sails. They also makelazy bags, the sail bag system that stays in place and uses lazyjacks. They openweekdays 0800-1300 and 1430-1800. They can arrange to collect and deliver your sails.

Polymar is a complete fiberglass shop owned by Max.They will do anything from repairing your hull or refinishing it with atop quality spray paint job to custom building hard tops or tanks. Theycan remove old antifouling by wet sandblasting, and for osmosis jobsthey have a gelcoat stripper. Polymar sells many products for projects.These include marine and teak ply, which can be bought cut to size,resins and fiberglass, paints (including the International line), foam,and a little marine hardware. They are also agents for some hydraulicpumps. Polymar builds a good line of dinghies and fishing boats out inthe Dillon industrial zone. Ask for details. Polymar is also the placeto get your scuba tanks filled.

Jean Pierre and Francois Chalmessin can work wonderswith stainless and aluminum, including argon welding, bending, building,and machining. Whether you have a broken winch or want a new pulpit orwater tank, they can do it. They are also wizards at fixing most marinecooking stoves.

Also into metal work is Jean-Michel Holland, who has TIG and MIG welders and can fabricate in aluminum,stainless, and bronze.

Cadet Electrical will fix your broken starters and alternators and are goodpeople to see for anything electrical.

Yave Marine, under the restaurant, services the whole line of Mercury andMercruiser products.

S.A.V. des Moteurs, run by Joseph Fere, is on the road as youapproach the compound. He services OMC outboards. Multicap Caraibes [VHP: 68],in Quai Quest, is the largest boatyard in the Windwards. You see their ferriescrossing Fort de France Bay and their fast catamaran charter yachts up and downthe islands. They also build a variety of custom dive boats, fishing boats, and racing yachts. MulticapCaraibes build and repair in foam core, wood/epoxy, aluminum, or steel to theFrench Bureau Veritas standard. They are the main repair station for largemultihulls and have their own 60-ton crane to bring them out on the quay. Theywill also haul out problem boats, such as racing boats with exceptionally deepkeels. Famous single-hander Isabel Autissier once had her 12-foot-draft boathauled here and stepped off it into one of the upstairs windows. They regularlyrepair aluminum masts. Christian Hernandez runs the yard and, as part of theirrepair service, they have a good mechanical workshop, but they will only work onVolvo, Nanni, Cummins, or Man inboards and Suzuki outboards. They keep a goodrange of new inboard and outboard engines in stock. They also have a chandlery(see our Chandlery section). Multicap Caraibes also has an outlet in Marina Basdu Fort in Guadeloupe.

Injectors or injection pumps need servicing? Check out oursection on the Industrial Zones.

(See plans page 79 and 84-85) Changing money in Fort deFrance is now easy at the best rates, thanks to efficient little change placeslike Change Caraibes, which is at the Savanne end of Rue Ernest Deproge andopens weekdays 0800-1730, Saturdays 0800-1230. Another money changing shop,called Martinique Change, is at the Blvd. Allegre end of Rue Victor Hugo, andyet another is at the La Savanne end of the same road. You will also find cashmachines in the big Vinci parking garage close to Sea Services.

Provisioning in Martinique is a pleasure. There are giantsupermarkets and good distributors for stocking up on wine and beer. Martiniquecustoms deem that you can only buy duty-free fuel and liquor if you are acharter boat. The definition of a charter boat is rather left up to thebusiness. It certainly helps if you have a brochure, and you must mark charteryacht on your customs form. But even if you do not qualify, the purveyors offergood wholesale prices on cases of beer and wine. Vatier has for many yearsserviced the yachting industry and it is always a pleasure to wander down to hisstore in Quaie des Tourelles and peruse his lists. You can pick stores up bydinghy from close by his shop. You will find TCS near by and they also have aretail jewelry store.

The best place for fresh produce is the open market betweenthe Pare Floral and the canal. Walk up Blvd. Allegre past the fish market andyou will see it. A lot of produce gets sold wholesale from here so you tend toget the best prices. However, there is also produce in the main market.Supermarkets in the town of Fort de France are not exciting, but suffice if youdon't have time to get to the big ones. Leader Price, opposite Sea Services, iseasy to find. It is a popular market, with bargain prices on canned and drygoods, beer, and more. They also have reasonable frozen and produce sections. Itis unbearable when crowded, though this may improve when they expand this year.Match, on Rue de la Republique, is about the best in town, with the widestselection. Casino Geant is the largest town store and has good cheese, meat, andproduce sections. The open market out front offers a good selection of fruitsand vegetables. None of these stores currently delivers. For a first ratebutcher, try Tailame. They will vacuum pack and freeze your purchases for you.For the fun of shopping in a really big supermarket, you need to visit the out-of-town malls, where small shopssurround gargantuan, modern supermarkets, called hyper-marches. Buses go to allthese places from the western end of Blvd. du General de Gaulle, by thecemetery, or you can take a taxi from in front of La Savanne. Ask thesupermarket staff to call a return taxi for you.

Two of the best supermarkets, Carrefour and La Galleria, aredescribed in our section on the industrial zones.

The others are towards Schoelcher and the closest is HyperUat Le Rond Point. It can be reached via the Schoelcher communal taxi, whichleaves from the big communal taxi stand in front of the anchorage. The energeticmay prefer to walk. It is rather uphill, but half an hour will get you there atan easy pace. En route, you may want to check out Weldon, a really gianthardware store with a vast range of household and project-related stock.

Further along at Cluny (we are no longer walking) is another,Casino Geant, which has good frozen fish and many Chinese fixings, and the CoralMall, which has really good meat.

On your way back from customs, pay a visit to the touristoffice on Rue Lazare Carnot. They will give you a good Fort de France map aswell as a Martinique one and they will answer your questions. Make sure you askfor their dining guide.

Fort de France is the place for both fashionable shopping andsouvenir hunting. The biggest handicraft market is on La Savanne, and another isnear the fish market. You will find everything from jewelry to handbags, paintings, andvarnished palm fruits. Half the artists and carvers in Haiti must be kept busywhipping out an overwhelming number of coconut trees, banana plants, fruits, andmodels in balsa wood. These are available all over town. The biggestcongregation of souvenir shops is on Rue Deproge towards La Savanne.

Fort de France is the only place in the Windwards for Parisfashions and stylish clothing shops. Start by wandering down Rue Victor Hugofrom La Savanne. As you cross other roads, turn now and again when tempted.Enjoy the pedestrian Rue de La Republique. Return by Rue LaMartine. If you areinto fancy jewelry, Georges Cherchel's L'Or et Argent on Victor Hugo is good.Georges is a yachtsmen and can also be helpful with repairs. Opposite, CharlesEuphrosine, the president of the Yacht Club has La Comptoise, which sells fancywatches. For fashion, try Glamour. Gallerie Lafayette, which takes up the cornerbetween Rue Antoine Siger and Rue Schoelcher, is a department store whereeverything is laid out so that it is easy to see. When you need a break, you canhave a coffee at Lina's. Don't forget to check out the St. James line at SeaServices (see Chandlery).

La Foire Fouille, next to Sea Services, is a giant householdstore, whose goods run the gamut from picture frames and toilet roll holders toevery imaginable size and shape of plastic container.

Art Pluriels, an art gallery one block from Sea Services, isowned by Colette Nimar who speaks perfect English and has

exquisite taste. If you are interested in buying or justlooking at good art, this is the place. Open 1030-1300, 1530-1800, closed Mondayand open only in the morning on Wednesday and Saturday.

Restaurants are plentiful in Fort de France. For the mostpart, prices are moderate and the food is straightforward and correctlyprepared. One or two are really upmarket with prices and sophistication tomatch. All are geared to the local, rather than the tourist market, as most Fortde France tourists are cruise ship passengers who eat on board. We will mentionjust a few.

At the fancy end, La Cave a Vin [$A], owned by M. Grouvel, isboth a fine restaurant and a gourmet food store. Their collection of wines,which you can buy by the bottle or case, may be of interest. The restaurantserves excellent French food and is a good choice for a special night out. Youneed to wear your smartest clothes ~ everyone else there will be well dressed.Slacks and a good sports shirt are fine.

El Raco [$A-B], on Rue Lazare Carnot north of La Savanne, isanother fancy restaurant that opens for lunch from Monday to Friday and fordinner from Tuesday to Saturday. Again, dress well and enjoy good food.

La Croisiere [$B-C, closed Sunday], is a pleasant upstairsrestaurant with a great balcony for watching life on the street below. It isinformal, relatively inexpensive, and serves both French and Creole dishes for lunch or dinner. Owner Zizi Alex has good local jazzgroups to play on Friday and Saturday nights.

The Crew [$B-C, closed Saturday and Sunday evenings] isreliable, easy to find and moderately priced. They serve French food, and thecooking is good. It is easy to find room at dinner, though it is packed withbusinessmen for lunch.

Tea Garden [$B-D] is an inexpensive restaurant offering localspecialties, Monday to Saturday for lunch and Thursday to Saturday for dinner.

Fancy a smoked salmon sandwich? Then Lina's [$D] on RueVictor Hugo is just the ticket, with elegant sandwiches and salads and wine bythe glass, all in a pleasant air-conditioned building with seating on twofloors. Leave some room for dessert and excellent coffee. Lina is open till 2200and has an evening program of theater, poetry reading, discussion, and sciencetalks. Check out the posters.

Several other places are good for lunch only. For fast food,consider the Delifrance on Rue de la Liberte, which does sandwiches for lunchand is a good place for a continental breakfast. Cafe 596 is good andinexpensive, but go early as it is tiny and gets crowded. Le Triangle d'Or is acafeteria style lunch place, inexpensive and quite pleasant. Sit in thecourtyard or in the upstairs air-conditioning.

A pleasant place to take lunch is in the main market, betweenRue Victor Hugo &. Rue Antoine Siger, amid the bustle of people selling fruits, tropical flowers, exotic alcoholicdrinks, souvenirs of all kinds, and straw goods. Tables are set out both at oneend of the market and upstairs. About half a dozen small restaurateurs [$D]offer typical Creole meals at bargain prices. There is also a fresh fruit juicestand where you choose your fruit and watch it being juiced.

If you are in CarenAntilles, the Bistro de Port is there toserve you from 0900-2330. Manager Naunau Soleir offers daily specials, meals,and snacks.

Wherever you eat, beware of those little green peppers. Theyare often put beside the food as decoration, and they are the hottest of hot.

Do you have photos to develop? Photo First develops printfilm and does E6 slide processing (Fujicolor and Ectachrome). The quality isnormally good.

History buffs should visit the little pre-Columbian museum onRue de la Liberte [closed Saturday afternoon and Sunday] and the Ethnic HistoryMuseum on Blvd General de Gaule; architecture buffs the Schoe-Icher Library, avery elaborate metal building that was made in France and shipped here.

Fort de France is a convenient starting point to see theisland as there are buses and communal taxis that go to all major towns andvillages. Currently, most of them start right outside the new ferry docks. Ifyou are going to the airport, take the "Ducos" car. The charge is lessthan 10 francs. Most of the suburban buses go from the west end of AvenueGeneral de Gaulle. These include buses to Dillon, Balata, and Didier. Buses toLamentin go from the east side of La Savanne. Taxis may be found by La Savanne.

With coastal regions collecting top dollar for rentals, it isnot surprising that more and more businesses are now found in the industrialzones, which run from Fort-de-France, past the airport, to Riviere Salee. If you arerenting a car, drive to Carrefour and take the airport road. Most businesses arereached from one of the following ma-jcr exits: the first is Riviere Roche; thesecond, Jambette; the third, Californie; and the fourth, which is easilyidentifiable by La Gal-leria, is Les Mangles. Note also the turn off to LeLamentin or La Lezarde. Lareinty is a zone right opposite the airport, then youcontinue on and enter Riviere Salee, using the same exit as for Trois Ilets.Taxis can be of help, but they may end up driving round in circles with themeter running when looking for a small business. Buses go to Carrefour from thewestern end of Blvd. General de Gaulle, by the cemetery.

Carrefour at Dillon is the first large and well laid outsupermarket you come to on the airport road and excellent for a majorprovisioning. Some prefer to go a little farther, to the even larger LaGalleria, which is a mall to end all malls. It has two floors, over a hundredshops, lots of restaurants, and glass-fronted lifts and escalators, making it afavorite hangout for many Martiniquais. The huge Hyper U supermarket haseverything. Price differences exist between this market and Carrefour, but neither is consistentlyhigher.

Inter Sport is across the major highway from Carrefour. It isa vast general sports shop that includes fishing, boating, kayaking,windsurfing, surf kiting gear, and more. You might not find what you are lookingfor, but you will certainly find something you want.

Mer et Sport is in La Jambette. This huge sports storespecializes in fishing and sports, with lots of clothes, fishing and snor-kelinggear, and rather more boating equipment than Inter Sport.

Turn off at Californie if you need to fill gas bottles, asthis is done at Antilles Gas.

Not far away, you will come to Atelier Sylvestre, thehydraulic hose specialists. They can remake any hose that is going bad. Theyalso stock many special hoses and you can buy fuel-resistant hoses or veryheavy-duty hoses. Fittings are available in stainless or aluminum and the ownersspeak English.

While at the airport it is useful to know about ACF Aviation,a combination flying school and tourist flight operation. They have the planesand should you need to get airborne, they are the people to talk to.

Continental Marine in Lementin are the Yamaha agents, havespares, and can sort out Yamaha outboard problems.

Riviere Salee is the home of West Indies Nautic Distribution(WIND), run by Bruno Marmousez. They specialize in paint, epoxy system 3,polyester resins, fiberglass materials, and the latest cores, including theultra light hollow polypropylene cores, and they are agents for Corecell,probably the best boat building core, which they order on demand. They can match any boat color with high qualitypolyurethane. They also sell Jotun and Seajet antifouling and supplies such asflashlight batteries, dust masks, and sandpaper. Their prices are excellent,they are very knowledgeable about their products, and they can give good adviceon epoxy. WIND is also the best flag outlet in the Eastern Caribbean, they haveor can quickly get any kind of courtesy flag or ensign. They also wholesaleflags. You don't have to visit Riviere Salee personally. Call Bruno (he speaksexcellent English) and he will happily deliver to your boat.

Upstairs, North Sails is a branch of Andrew Dove's NorthSails in Guadeloupe and you can order new North Sails here and pick them up inGuadeloupe if you wish. They will also collect sails for repair anywhere inMartinique and they do canvas work, such as biminis and awnings.

A new municipal yacht marina is under construction just westof Pointe du Sable. The first phase will be a basin and docks to take all thelocal yacht club boats. This will probably be complete soon. The main visitor yacht part of the harbor will follow in thefuture. When finished, it will have a very complete shopping, restaurant andservices area.

COHE DE LAMENTIN

(See also our "Approaches to Anchorages in Fort deFrance Bay," page 73)

This murky backwater is only of interest if you need to getclose to the airport, are hiding from a hurricane or an ex-wife, or need a placeto leave your boat while you go away.

To approach from Anse Milan, start by the black and yellowbuoy just off Pte. du Bout and head about 70 degrees magnetic, which will joinyou to the main channel. Leave all the red buoys to starboard and the green onesto port. From Fort de France, head east, going outside the green buoys markingthe shoals off the fort, then head about 130 degrees magnetic until you join themain channel from Anse Mitan to Cohe de Lamentin. The troublesome shoal is theone extending from Pte. de Sable. The water on this route ismainly 10 to 12 feet deep, but watch for unmarked obstructions.

Marina de Cohe is in a somewhat strange, quiet, hot creektucked in the mangroves. As you approach, be sure to leave the red buoy offMorne Rouge to starboard. The entrance to the marina is hidden down a smallcreek that is marked by a wrecked barge. Stay center channel and do not cut thecorner on the southern shore, which is where most people go aground. Yachts ofaround 6-foot draft can get in.

There is another dock, usually full of local boats, tucked upin the top corner of Cohe de Lamentin.

For a charming and photogenic town, not yet overrun withvisitors, visit Trois Ilets. You land on the fancy new waterfront walkway andhead towards the church. Most houses are old, built of wood or stone, and cappedwith fish-scale tile roofs. A handsome square lies between the church and thetown hall. This pleasant area offers several scenic, quiet, and secure places toanchor, some of which are protected enough to ride out a hurricane.

Approach from Anse Milan by leaving the black and yellowbuoys off Pte. du Bout and Pte. de la Rose to starboard. Give the shoals alongthe coast between Pte. de la Rose and Pte. Angboeuf reasonable clearance. Theeasiest anchorage is found by following the coast in from PointeAngboeuf and anchoring off the golf course. There is one 4-foot shoal, butotherwise the approach is easy. The approach to town is between the islands:Steer for the eastern island till you see the green buoy and leave it to port.After rounding the buoy, turn a little east again to avoid the shoals off theisland to the west.

You can do emails weekdays at Alphatext. It opens 0800-1230and 1400-1700, (mornings only, Wed. and Sat.). Go upstairs left of the sign.Raphael speaks English. She also copies and laminates.

There is an excellent restaurant, Les Passages du Vent [$B,closed Monday lunch and Sundays], in a delightful old stone building. It isowned by Stephane and Aurelie Oury and Aurelie speaks English and Spanish.Seating is either inside or out in an enclosed courtyard. A rotating exhibit oflocal art brightens the walls. Stephane has run many restaurants in France andhis cuisine is inventive and beautifully presented.

Check out the two other restaurants on the same road: Greenhas both Creole food and entertainment, and Aux Trois P is a friendly pizza barthat also serves regular meals. Down on the waterfront you can try TachimanPizza and Kachimar creperie; both offer great locations for a drink.

More yachts use this port now that there is a ferry to Fortde France that runs about every half hour. There are mangrove tours that arereputed to be excellent.

In town will find a local market (open every day), a postoffice, a butcher, a wonderful boulangerie/patisserie/ice creamery, a pharmacy,a couple of general stores, and a hospital. A tourist office is stationed in themarket square and should you wish to rent a car, the woman at the tourist officewill send you in the right direction.

There are plenty of attractions a fair walk away. Trois Ilets is one of the few places in the islands where you can play golf overlookingyour yacht in the bay below. Opposite the 18-hole golf course is an ancientdistillery, a floral park, and La Pagerie Museum, the original home of EmpressJosephine. Most of the old estate house burned down when she was three yearsold, but you can still see the old kitchen and the remains of the sugar mill onthe plantation where she lived until she left for France at age 16. In theopposite direction you can find a sugar cane museum and some potteries, one ofwhich produces the lovely fish-scale roof tiles used both in Trois Ilets and inSt. George's, Grenada.

ing. Docks and roads are private, but there is a small publicaccess path just north of the hotel. The hotel is quite conspicuous.

ANSE MITAN

Anse Mitan was one of the original tourist areas inMartinique. It is part of the Trois Ilets district, and the head of thepeninsula is called Pte. du Bout. It offers beaches, boutiques, restaurants,lots of activity, and it is fun for people watching. Several ferry services runto Fort de France. Some operate out of the marina at Pte. du Bout, others fromthe Langouste Dock at Anse Mitan. (These also service Anse a L'Ane.) All usehigh-speed ferries. There is a discount when you buy a return ticket, but thenyou must return with the same company and this may take longer. Marina ferriesstart at around 0600 and finish at about 2300. They run regularly between 0700and 1900, often about every 15 minutes. There is an hour-long lunch break afterthe 1300 ferry. From the Langouste Dock most ferries run at either 10 to thehour or on the hour. They return from Fort de France at half past the hour(except 1320 instead of 1330). Check times on the notice boards on the docks.

Anse Mitan is attractive to yachts, but not generallyovercrowded, possibly because you tend to roll with each passing ferry.

When approaching Anse Mitan, the main danger is the reeflying 200 yards west of Le Ponton. Yachts are often anchored all

TROU ETIENNE

Just occasionally, the weather goes crazy and storms fromafar create huge swells that make both Fort de France and Anse Mitan untenable.If this happens, it is possible to pop round to the other side of Pte. du Boutand anchor in Trou Etienne. As you come from the west, leave both yellow andblack buoys to starboard, and as you enter the bay, do not go too close toshore. There are many private moorings and the water is either rather deep ortoo shallow for easy anchoraround this reef. It is marked by a red and black buoy.Anchor anywhere among the other yachts. Holding is good in sand, but poor onpatches of coral. Leave a couple of hundred feet in front of the beach clear forswimmers and leave the channel clear for the ferry. The no-anchoring areas areoccasionally marked by yellow buoys.

There is a plan to build a protective wall outside Le Pontondu Bakoua. We mark the planned location on our chart.

On those very rare occasions when there is a badnorthwesterly swell, go to Trou Etienne, to the other side of Pte. du Bout, orbetter, to Trois Ilets.

Communications

E-mail access is available at Laverie Prolaunet on the cornerof Village Creole, open 0800-1300, 1530-1830.

Le Ponton [VHF:68] is a fancy dock for berthing about twodozen boats, with water and electricity, and a fuel dock at one end, and arestaurant at the other. They have showers and toilets. Special low side docksmake stern-to shore access very easy for those with stern steps. Yannick is incharge of both the docking and the fuel dock, which is open 0830-1200 and1515-1800. It is closed Monday afternoon and all day Tuesday, and open Sundays0900-1300,1400-1700. Duty-free fuel is available to charter yachts that have been clearedout. Those needing fuel (especially good quantities) at other times should callin advance or try to contact Philippe in the office. They plan some rentalmoorings.

Somatras Marina (Marina Pte. du Bout) [VHP: 9] is a smallmarina offering stern-to berthing with water and electricity. Short -andlong-term berths are often available. There is no fuel dock.

Laverie Prolaunet is a good laundrette/ internet station byVillage Creole. There is a laundry in Somatras marina.

Patrice Caillot's Mecanique Plaisance is a complete shop andrepair facility for everything to do with diesel engines on pleasure boats. Theyare agents for Perkins, Volvo, Westerbeke, and Yanmar and keep a full line ofyacht engines and generators in stock. Their shop sells everything from cutlassbearings, shaft materials, and stern glands to plumbing bits, alternators,electrical parts, gaskets, engine spares, and a complete range of Racor filters, Patrice works mainly on themakes of engine he sells. He guarantees his work, and his equipment includes acomplete machine shop. The shop contains a chandlery that is connected to LeShip in Marin, so if you don't see what you need, ask, and perhaps they canbring it in. Patrice and some of his staff speak English.

Herve Lepault's Voile Caraibe Martinique [VHP: 16] is a fullsail loft where you can get anything made or repaired, from a new main to abimini or sailboard cover. He has a department that specializes in boatcushions. The main 6000-square-foot workshop is located in Artimer, next to thecarenage in Marin. Most of the work is done there, but Herve keeps a servicepoint in Pointe du Bout in the Village Creole.

Herve builds new sails with the well-known French Incidenceslabel and guarantee. The sails are computer-designed and cut in France with thelatest technology and built in Herve's loft. The large new loft ensures quickservice and the ability to take on any size of job, either new or for repair.

Jean-luc Ledoux has a company called TMS, which willhelp with any yachting problem; rigging, finding parts, haul-out work, andcomplete refits. He is mobile and works here, in Fort de France, or Marin. Theeasiest way to find him is by phone: 0696-25-84-79.

The 8 a Huit Supermarket is compact but complete. It is open0830-1930, except Sundays and holidays when it opens 0830-1300. If you arebuying a large amount, they will deliver it to the waterfront. It is thecheapest place to have a cold beer. Fresh flowers are available down near themarina. Most days, vegetable sellers set up by the side of the road.

For a really huge provisioning, consider renting a car todrive to one of the giant supermarkets.

Pointe du Bout is a shopper's dream of trendy littleboutiques. These multiply every year and you can find attractive clothing,jewelry, handicrafts, souvenirs, art, magazines, ornaments, and books. There isalso a pharmacy, massage parlor/beauty salon, several hairdressers, and a shopthat sells and develops film.

The Creole Village, beside the entrance to the Bakoua, isbuilt in Caribbean style just Disneyfied enough to make it theatricallyenticing. It is chock-a-block with boutiques and restaurants.

One of the delights of Anse Mitan is to stroll over to DeliFrance and have a breakfast of French coffee, fresh croissants and pain dechocolat. You can pick up your bread at Deli France and it is well worthreturning to Boule de Neige, next door, later in the day for one of theirwonderfully decadent ice cream specials. They also serve crepes and are opentill 2200.

Dozens of restaurants line the streets. For the most partthey are a bit touristy and moderately expensive. There is at least oneexception; the hungry sailor cannot beat Fanny's [$C-D], a Creole restaurantthat has become almost legendary for offering the best value formoney. Fanny's Creole cooking is excellent and the menu, which is postedoutside, nearly always includes fish, chicken, and either shrimp or freshwatercrayfish (ecrevisse). In addition, a changing daily special menu often has suchdelights as duck in pineapple sauce or filet mignon. Lobster is usuallyavailable, though it costs more. Shorts are acceptable and the air conditioningmakes it cool for lunch. It is currently open for dinner from 1900 every dayexcept Wednesday. To get there from La Langouste dock, walk down the beach untilyou see the road on your right. Fanny's is right across the road. Fanny and someof her staff speak English.

If you want to go a little more upmarket, then Le Ponton[$B-D] is an excellent restaurant that is very popular with locals. It issituated right on the dock of the same name and surrounded by water and open tothe view all around. You can tie your dinghy right outside. The food is French,well prepared, and moderately priced, and the service is friendly and efficient.They are open every day for both lunch and dinner. Arrive early for lunch.

Two pizza places are completely opposite in theme. Le Pachahas pizza and champagne with comfy elegant seats and smart decor. Le Toucan isdown the back road close to Fanny's, with an amusing informal family ambience.

For the pleasure of sitting on the beach and watchingscantily-clad beautiful people, check out Au Soleil Couchant [$C-D]. If youprefer to watch people clad in designer clothes, try one of the restaurants bythe marina. The most reliable is La Marine [$B]. Here you get to sit out in theopen, facing the marina, the surroundings are pleasant, and the food fair value.

There are seven restaurants in La Village Creole. Havana Cafeis the place to sip a drink and watch people pass.

In Anse Mitan, the cheapest place for entertainment is theBambou (Quenetier), a rough and ready beach hotel that has entertainment mostnights, with no cover charge. Both the Carayou and the Meridien have discos.

Ashore

Anse Mitan has many car rentals and it is a good place toexplore the island. Sens Action, in the same office as Lychee Plongee, offerssome novel looking downhill gravity-bike trips in the northern interior.

If you want to go diving, check out Lychee Plongee behind themain beach, or Planete Bleue by the the marina. If they are not too busy, Lycheewill fill tanks, but check with them first.

Just around the corner from Anse Mitan is Anse a 1'Ane, asweet little bay with a charming beach. It makes a pleasant anchorage in goodconditions, though you will roll when the Fort de France ferry runs, about everyhalf hour. Check the times on their notice board.

Right in the middle of the bay, about one third of a mileoffshore, is a hard-to-spot reef about 4-feet deep. You can pass on either sideto anchor in about 12 feet, sand bottom. Make sure your anchor is well dug inand leave plenty of room for the ferries that come into the dock. Anse a 1 Aneis open to the northwest and should be avoided in times of heavy ground swells.When approaching from Anse Mitan, give the first headland a wide clearance as it is all rocky and shoalsstick out 270 yards at Pte. Alet (see chart). When heading toward Cap Salomonfrom Anse a L'Ane, you have about 9 feet of water between Ilet a Ramiers and themainland, enough for most yachts to pass.

The area enclosed by a line drawn from Pointe Alet west to ayellow buoy northwest of Ilet a Ramiers (14°32.69N, 61°05.11W), then south tothe northern headland of Anse Noir, is a protected area (see our Approaches toFort de France chart P73). Fishing, spearfishing, or taking anything fromthe sea is forbidden. Anchoring is only allowed in Anse a 1'Ane itself, andforbidden elsewhere.

Anse a 1'Ane is a holiday area, though much less built upthan Anse Mitan. The beach has kept some of its original charm, with seagrapesand palm trees providing shade. You can leave your dinghy on the inner end of the ferry dock and there are garbage binsashore. A gas station can be found on the main road. A good 8 a Huit supermarketis open 0800-2000 except Sunday when it closes at 1300. Pomme Canelle is agreengrocer that also sells tropical flowers and smoked chicken.

Ready for a meal out? For lunch you cannot do much betterthan Le Nid Tropical [$D] or Le Case Glace, snack bars that also sell pastriesand ice cream. Their advantage is a superb location right on the beach lookingat the bathers and the ocean.

Pignon sur Mer [$A-B] serves fine Creole food. The Calalou[$B-C] at the Club Trois Ilets offers a beach bar lunch and elaborate dinners,with entertainment most nights. Chez Jo Jo [$C] is an inexpensive restaurant andthe local hot-spot, with live Zouk music most nights. It is informal and shortsare fine.

The dive shop Corail Club Caraibes, at Club Trois Ilets, hasseveral instructors who speak English.

Anse Noire is a tiny, deeply indented bay about halfwaybetween Ilet a Ramiers and Cap Salomon. It should be avoided in northerlyswells, but is otherwise well protected. Small colorful cliffs rise on thesouthern headland and there is a steep hill on the northern one. Palms line theblack sand beach at the head of the bay and a large fancy dock juts out from thebeach. Behind the beach a steep jungly valley rises into the mountains. AnseNoire is a popular daytime anchorage, especially on the weekends, but usually isdeserted and peaceful at night. The wind swings in all directions. Just south ofAnse Noire, Anse Dufours is a small fishing village with a white sand beach. Iwould not recommend anchoring in Anse Dufours overnight as you will probably bein the way of the fishermen.

It is pleasant just to sit and watch the kingfishers andother birds on the cliffs. An interesting trail follows the shady strip ofriverine forest up the river behind the beach (just a river bed in the dryseason) up to the main road.

Hidden behind the vegetation, Restaurant Anse Noire [$C, lunch only, closed Mondays] has thefeeling more of the Pacific than the Caribbean, with its tall thatched roof andwooden benches and three rental chalets. Owners Viviane Eglantine and ClaudeCastex have an excellent seafood menu. Their fish, grilled and served whole,covered in herbs and accompanied by a sauce, is delicious, as is their lobster.

Alternatives include Desir's Sable D'Or [$C-D, closedTuesday], which specializes in fresh seafood and Creole meat dishes atreasonable prices. To get there, climb the steps up the cliff and walk a short way up the road. For lunchthere is also Snack Chez Nini [$D] in Anse Dufours.

The snorkeling around the bay and headlands is excellent.There are small walls, crevices, and rocks decorated with sponges, tube worms,and anemones, which attract a large variety of small fish. Electric rays,octopuses, squid, and a variety of sea cucumbers are often found here.

GRANDE ANSE D'ARLET

Grande Anse D'Arlet is a picturesque village set on a whitesand beach. It used to be a fishing village and some dugout fishing piroguesremain, though for the most part it is now geared to tourism and the northerncorner has a touch of the Riviera, with brightly colored beach umbrellas. Afancy new walkway runs behind the beach. Avoid sailing too close to the centerof the village as a shoal area extends seaward several hundred feet. The bestanchoring spot is in the southeastern corner of the bay, which has a sand bottom 8 to30 feet deep.

Kay Zaza is a mini yacht service center with laundry, e-mailservices, fax and telephone, and a book swap. Zaza's is also an artistic shopwith lots of gifts, ornaments, some casual clothing, art, and they sell stamps.Zaza has yacht herself and is very helpful.

Emmanuel Anorja is a first-rate refrigeration and air conditioningtechnician; his company is called Fresher Service. He is mobile and works in anyof the other anchorages, including Marin. He lives up to the name of his companyas he is very reliable and so the best bet for large charter yachts with anemergency. The easiest way to contact him is by phone (0696-82-24-04).

Several small food stores sell groceriesand ice. When you get to the dock, go up to the main road,turn in either direction and you will come to one.

Chez Gaby [$A-B] has new own-ers,Charles and Marine. They special-ize in fresh lobster andkeep a big tank on display. Charles cooks them just right,and while lobster is never cheap in Martinique, their perkilo price is one of the more reasonable, making this a great lobster place. They also offer fresh water crayfish.

Bidjoul [$B-D], Les Arcades [$B-D], and L'Abre Pain [$B-D]are all along the pathway behind the beach. They set tables and chairs in theopen on the beach to create an enchanting place to have dinner right on thewaterfront. Bidjoul is the most popular. The cooking is simple, well-done andnicely presented.

At the northern end of the beach, behind all the fancyMediterranean style sunshades, are Ti Sable [$B-C] and Quai Sud [$B-C], bothslightly fancier establishments. Several more beachfront restaurants open just for lunch.

Cars can be rented from the beach, and the coast road fromPetite Anse D'Arlet, which winds over the hills to Diamant, offers spectacularviews. Petite Anse D'Arlet is within easy walking distance.

Snorkeling is interesting all along the southern shore andbetween Grande Anse D'Arlet and Petite Anse D'Arlet. Divers can join PlongeePassion on either of their two daily dives at 1000 or 1430. Alpha Dive alsodives daily and is at the north end of the beach in Ti Sable.

PETITE ANSE D'ARLET

The village of Petite Anse D'Arlet is photogenic, with somelovely old houses and a picturesque church. A handsome promenade follows thewaterfront. Petite Anse D'Arlet makes a good overnight anchorage when the windis not too far in the south. When approaching town, look out for the rocks tothe west of the dock. Some are visible but others extend some yards seaward.Anchor in one of the sand patches off the town dock.

Anchorage may also be found at Anse Chadiere in thesoutheastern corner of the bay, which is a great hideaway anchorage and good forsnorkeling. Approach with caution as isolated rocks extend about 100 feetoffshore. Anchor on the sand bottom at 10 to 12 feet.

Ashore you will find a couple of tiny shops, artists'studios, a post office, gift shops that rent cars, and the modern pharmacy, Bernis. Vendorsoften sell fresh produce along the waterfront. Aux Delices des Anse is a goodplace for a cup of coffee and a pastry.

An attractive restaurant is set in a quaint old house in thetown. Just follow the road that runs back a bit to the west of the church. It ispresently called Le Fatzo, but after renovations, who knows? Otherwise,Restaurant de la Plage [$C-D, closed Wed. and Sun. nights] has seating right onthe beach and offers a Creole menu, or there is Maxi Creole [$C-DJ next door. Atthe other end of the walkway, Chez Ludger is the Pizza specialist For lunch, gravitate to the plastic chairs set out on thebeach northwest of the river. Sandwiches and local meals are available frommobile vendors.

The snorkeling is good in Anse Chadiere. It may be worth giving scuba a go here as well.

THE SOUTH COAST OF MARTINIQUE

There are no good anchorages along Martinique's south coastuntil you get to the eastern end. Several shoals along this coast extend up tohalf a mile offshore. There is deep water (over 100-feet) outside these shoals.It is best to stay in this deep water to avoid the numerous fish traps at lesserdepths.

As long as you don't get too far offshore, the sail east toSte. Anne is usually a brisk beat to windward in protected water. Sometimes on arising tide, when the current reverses to the east, it can become uncomfortablychoppy.

Having said there are no good anchorages along this coast,there is an anchorage. It is not good, in that it often rolls (though thisshould be no problem for multihulls), and entry is extremely tricky and shouldonly be attempted by those with years of Caribbean and reef navigationexperience. The reefs are not at all easy to see and they are very dangerous,with swells often building up as you go in. Once inside, it is a delightful baywith the large Novotel on one side and a deserted headland on the other. Theview is great.

Baie du Marigot lies to the east of the town of Diamant. Whencoming from the west, you see a conspicuous peaky hill behind. A building with ared roof stands on the western headland, and the Novotel buildings are to thewest of this, though partially hidden by trees. A reef, Caye de Obian, lies almost on a direct line between Pte. du Diamantand the entrance. It is about a mile offshore.

The approach is down a very narrow channel 30 feet deep withshallow banks and reefs on either side up to half a mile offshore. While thereis just enough water to stray onto the banks in some places, you want to stay inthe deep water. Swells usually roll into the shore making the approach dangerousif you make a mistake. The channel includes a curve. The approach should only bemade in calm, sunny conditions with good light for spotting the shallows, whichare often hard to pick out. It is strictly a matter of eyeball navigation.

Once inside, there is ample room for anchoring; the prettiestarea is towards the eastern headland. If you are on a monohull, you willprobably need to use a stern anchor to make life bearable.

The large Novotel on the western shore has boutiques andrestaurants.

Pointe Bourgesse is the western headland as you enter Cul deSac Marin. A couple of pleasant mooring areas lie between this headland and theheadland off Anse Figuiers.

The area from Ste. Luce bounded by a yellow buoy, and thegreen buoy MA2, continuing to Pointe Bourgesse is a protected area forfisheries. No fishing or spearfishing is allowed and anchoring is not allowed,though you are permitted to pick up any yacht moorings that are put in place.None have been yet.

A wide shelf about 9-14 feet deep follows this coast. Off theshelf the depth drops rapidly to 200 feet. There are some large shallow areas onthe shelf that must be avoided. If you start at the green buoy MA2 (at theentrance to Cul de Sac Marin) you can feel your way into a good mooring spot(when they are put down) along the headland. This is a pleasant and usuallydeserted area, though quite popular on weekends. This whole area is open to thesouth and should be avoided if swells are coming from this direction.

A mile to the northwest, Anse Figuiers is a delightful bayand a popular holiday beach behind which you can see the building of theeco-museum with its conspicuous chimney. To get into Anse Figuiers, you want topass outside the shelf in deep water and approach Anse Figuiers from thesouthwest. There is a good shelf off the beach in 10-25 feet of water. I don'tknow whether moorings are planned for this bay or not. If you have a fast dinghyyou can visit that way.

During the day you can get a meal at the snack bar at thenorthwestern end of the beach or the restaurant to the southeast of the Museum.The restaurant does sometimes open in the evenings, but never on a Sunday orMonday. Snorkeling is fair all around the headlands.

There is ample water to dinghy up the Riviere Pilote for acouple miles to the town of Riviere Pilote. This is an entertaining exercise andthe scenery is quite pretty. Along the eastern shore is an area with numerousjunked railway cars from the days when sugar cane was moved by railway. Entry tothe river is close to shore between the coast and a man-made causeway. You will see many fishingboats and even a mini-marina along the first part of the trip.

The white buildings of Ste. Anne stand out clearly againstthe surrounding green hills. Above the town is a prominent shrine with a walledpath leading up to it. Yellow buoys often delineate an area off the beach andtown. No anchoring is allowed inside these buoys, but the anchoring area outsideis very large. You can also eyeball your way south and anchor off the CaritanHotel. The water depth is 10 to 20 feet and holding is good in sand. Shoals lieclose to shore between Ste. Anne and Anse Caritan. If you are arriving here fromabroad, you must first go to Marin and clear customs. Customs officers dosometimes check.

Step off the dock and turn right along the front and you passtwo small supermarkets that are ample for topping up your stores. Opposite isL'Epi Soleil, a boulangerie/patisserie good for coffee, sandwiches and snacks.Walk through the store to a pleasant sitting area right on the waterfront.Farther down the street on the right is the market with fresh meat, fish,fruits, vegetables and handicrafts. A little farther down the road is a T-junction. Just before this junction isan unmarked building where they make fresh bread and Danish and they open veryearly to about 9 am. Let your nose be your guide. More vegetables are availableat Le Petit Marche opposite the bank.

The local restaurants often change hands. The best thing isto wander round and see what suits. Poi et Virgmie [$B-C] has a good waterfrontlocation and specializes in French and Creole food. Les Tamariniers [$B-C] hasthe cutest exterior surrounded by flowers and they usually have lobster. Downthe street behind them, Le Coco Neg [$C] serves traditional Creole food, and isreasonably priced. Le Sud [$B-C] on the back street turns out a fair Creolemeal. La Dunette [$B], facing the sea, has an open dining room under ablue striped awning, and is a perfect place to stop for a beer or ice cream.Check for more restaurants down by the bus stop (gare routieres), especially for lunch. LeRendezvous has a good waterfront location. If you turn left on the main roadpast the market you come to several more places, ending with the elegant Manoirde Beauregard.

There are also many more restaurants and snack bars behindthe long beach that stretches from Ste. Anne to the Club Med.

Ste. Anne is a delightful seaside town popular with tourists,and souvenir shops abound. The church square leads to two main streets, onealong the waterfront and a par-allel one at the back. If (from the dock) youturn left along the front street you can climb over the hill to a popular beachthat stretches all the way to Club Med. You can also follow the curious walk upto the shrine on the top of the hill from behind the church.

Hikers should take the road towards Anse Caritan and thenfollow the marked forestry trail that goes all the way along, or just behind,the shore to Anse des Salines. Anse des Salines is one of Martinique's finestpalm-backed beaches and very popular, ideal for people watching. Those whoprefer a more private setting will pass several fabulous smaller beaches alongthe way which are too far from a car park to be popular.

Communal taxis run to Fort de France.

A good place to start snorkeling or diving is at the secondred buoy in the channel toward Marin. Snorkelers can follow the shallow part ofthe reef and divers can head south into deeper water where they will find alarge collection of sponges, including some unusual shapes. This is a good placeto see corallimorphs, pencil urchins and small colorful reef fish.

Kalinargo, the local dive shop, is at the Ste. Anne end ofthe beach that leads to Club Med. They dive twice daily, at 0900 and 1400, butyou need to come half an hour early. They will also fill tanks.

Small sailing catamarans and sailboards are available forrent on the beach.

Marin, a pleasant small town is an important Caribbeanyachting center, the largest in Martinique. It has a huge marina, a haul-outfacility and many other yacht services. Where else in the Windwards can you walkinto two mechanic's shops and view several makes of marine engines on show andready to install? You can find technicians of all stripes and they are generallyhelpful and good at what they do. This is the main base for the Martinique charter industry: TheMoorings, Sunsail, Star Voyage, Martinique Plaisance, Kiriacoulis, SparklingCharter, Punch Croisieres, VPM Dufour, Tropical Yacht Services, TurquoiseYachting, Chimere Yachting, and Petit Breton all have bases here.

Cul-de-Sac du Marin is a vast, deeply indented bay,surrounded by hills and lined with mangroves. It is full of shoals that areoften visible in good light. The whole area is a gunkholer's dream and the bestplace to be in Martinique during a hurricane. The entrance channel is wellmarked by buoys and beacons. After you pass Club Med, head for the apartmentbuildings behind the forest of masts until you see the pair of red and greenbeacons in the middle of the bay. Pass between them, leaving the red one tostarboard and the green one to port. Follow the channel in, leaving the redbuoys to starboard. Shoals lie in the "no anchoring" area off MarinBeach, so avoid navigating through it.

If you are going between Marin and Ste. Anne, you can take ashort cut between the outer two red buoys. Avoid the 6-fooi shoal that lies eastof the outer red buoy (see our sketch chart).

Marin is a port of entry and a customs officer is availableat his office in the marina every morning. He usually arrives about 0700 andleaves at 1230.

Anchoring is forbidden in the swimming area marked by yellowbuoys in front of the beach.

All the email facilities are good with high-speed access. Thetwo largest are in the shops behind Stardust. Marylene Emilie's Sud Bureautiquehas a bank of five computers. Marylene speaks excellent English, her prices aregood, she can switch the French keyboards to type querty. She also makes copiesand has printer ink cartridges for sale. She opens 0700-1700, except Wednesdays0700-1230, Saturday 0800-1200, and Sunday 0900-1130. A few steps down the roadtowards Marin is another development with shops, and one of these is Cyber Marinwhich opens weekdays 0800-1900 and Saturdays 0830-1300. They have a good bank of computers, reasonable rates, and they alsosell ice cream and some good bread, both baguettes and longer lasting wholewheatloaves for yachts.

You can also send emails upstairs in the marina in Balade etMer, and those on the hard use the email over at Cyber Carene in theCarenAntilles main office. They open Monday to Saturday 0800-1700 with a breakfor lunch. On Sundays they open 0800-1200.

Services in Marin are in two locations, both easy to reach bydinghy. Some are close to the town waterfront and the marina; others are over byCarenAntilles, the large slipway.

SAEPP [VHF: 0 9], generally known as Marin Yacht Harbour orPort du Plaisance Marin, is the only large marina in Martinique. Managed by EricJean-Joseph, it is good, friendly, and inexpensive. A new extension increasesthe number of berths to 600, so there is normally plenty of room for visitors,who are placed on the most accessible berths (see sketch chart). You can getdiesel, gasoline, and water on the fuel dock daily: 0800-1730. Dockage isavailable with 220-volt/50-cycle electricity; 110-volt transformers are alsoavailable. (The 220-volt does not work with two lines of 110.) Since most of thecharter companies are based here, many marine services, as well as car rentalagencies and a Change Caraibes can be found right in the marina. Twenty-fivemoorings are also available, very reasonably priced; call on the VHF: 09 to geton one. The marina is huge, but everything is connected with a waterfrontwalkway. The office is above the yacht club, right in the middle ~ an easy walkfrom either dinghy dock.

Some berths are suitable for mega yachts of any length and upto 4.5 meters draft. Anne Vandromme, who used to work on large yachts, is thereto ensure that they have everything they need, and is adept at getting goodtechnicians in a hurry. Anne is also a useful contact for those who have aproblem speaking French as she lived in the states for a few years, speaksexcellent English, and is equally happy helping cruisers.

CarenAntilles [VHP: 16/73] is a large haul-out facility witha fuel dock and many support services. We show their location on our sketchchart. You can easily visit by dinghy. CarenAntilles can take boats with up to23-foot beam with their 65-ton travel lift, and larger vessels up to 48 feetwide, 130 feet long and 1000 tons on their floating dry dock. The dredgedchannel to the lift is nominally 11 feet, but it shoals somewhat betweendredgings. Though both sides of the channel are buoyed, you must be careful tostay in the middle of the channel. The storage area is large enough to takeabout 200 boats and this is a good place to leave your yacht in dry storage.Rates depend on both how long you need to be ashore and the current exchangerate for the Euro. Fax them for a rate sheet. You can do your own work on theslip or, if you prefer, there are workshops that can do it for you. Facilitiesinclude toilets, showers, and a restaurant. The yard manager, Jocelyne, speaksgood English. CarenAntilles is surrounded by many support services.

Bichik, the fuel dock (also camping gaz) at CarenAntilles, isa great, friendly, family establishment run by Marc and Genvieve Giroud. Theyopen 0700 to 1900; morning only on Sunday. If you bring your laundry, it will becarefully washed and impeccably folded by Pascale for a reasonable price. Thisis also an active social spot and meeting place. People come to the Bichikstore, which sells fishing gear and groceries, to drink a beer or coffee, have alunchtime sandwich, watch some sports on TV and use the books swap, whichincludes an English section.

If you prefer to do it yourself, Lav@net is in the Anette Mai~ a laundry with a coin operated internet. It opens 0700 to 1900.

If you want to sell your yacht or buy one, try Eric Vasse at3S organization in the marina, Caraibes Yachts behind Sunsail, or DominiqueAmice's A&C brokers. Charter companies also often sell used yachts.

Chandleries can be found both in the marina and inCarenAntilles. In the marina, Le Ship, owned by Viviane Caillot, is a greatchandlery with an ever-increasing stock. You will find stoves, heads, anchors,chain, rope, charts, pumps, stoves, electronics, cruising guides, charts, andall kinds of yacht hardware. They also sell EV inflatable dinghies, from 2.6meters up to semi-rigid tenders.

Upstairs in the marina, Caraibes Greement is a full riggingshop (see Technical yacht services) and technical chandlery run byPhilippe Leconte. Their chandlery is very good on the technical rigging side,and also carries a wide range of safety gear and general hardware, as well as hatches and portlights,cooking stoves, charts, ropes, paints, and more. They also have a whole roomdedicated to electrical and water maker equipment, with good deals on 75-wattsolar panels.

Over in CarenAntilles, Carene Shop, owned by Herve Ferrari,is right in the CarenAntilles compound and is a good technical chandlery foreverything you might need on the slip. Paints, antifoulings, epoxies,polyesters, and cloths are carried, as well as zincs, through-hulls, lots ofplumbing, hoses, and marine batteries (including Trojan). Herve rents all thetools necessary for their application and speaks enough English to explain them to you.

In the same building, upstairs, is Plus Nautiques, thebargain basement and nearly-new shop of the marine industry. Their prices aregood on the fairly wide range they carry. They often have both in-flatables andrigid dinghies in stock. A new room is dedicated to nautical clothing, oiskins,and shoes, much of it by Musto. Plus Nautiques is open weekdays, 0900-1300 and1430-1730, and on Saturday mornings.

In the marina you will find outlets for two sailmakers whohave their main shops elsewhere. Voilerie Caraibe Martinique, owned by HerveLepault, has a small branch on the road side of the marina. Their main shop isover in Artimer next to Carnen-Antilles.

North Sails has a small outlet downstairs in the marina whereyou can drop off sails for repair and get instant quotes for new ones. ErikBaray speaks good English and is around most of the day.

Near the marina office is a branch of Patrice Caillot'sMecanique Plaisance. Their shop is new_ and shiny, with a good range of newPerkins, Volvo, Westerbeke and Yanmar engines and generators, and Tohatsuoutboards in stock at competitive prices. The shop also sells a full range ofspares for most things mechanical, including all kinds of filters for fuel andoil. They mainly repair the brands of motor they sell, but they try to help outwith other makes of engine when they have time. They guarantee their work.

Upstairs on the same floor as the marina office is JacquesFauquet's Diginav electronics shop. Jacques speaks English, is pleasant to dealwith, and fixes all types of electronic equipment. He is technically excellent,and can handle the most complex systems, including superyacht electronics.However, this has made him very much in demand, so visit early and see how thescheduling is. Jacques keeps Furuno, Brookes and Gatehouse, Garmin, Simrad, andIcom equipment in stock. He can set you up with a satellite communicationsystem. He does a lot of sales and installation work for American and European yachts.

Upstairs in the marina, Caraibes Greement is a full riggingservice and technical chandlery run by Philippe Leconte. Philippe can handle anyrigging problem you may have, from replacing stays to a complete re-rig of youryacht, even including a new mast. Difficult splices, including rope to wire, area breeze. Caraibes Greement are agents for Profurl and Facnor (a complete set ofspares is on hand), as well as Lewmar, Navtec, Spectra, Richard, and Harken.They always keep spare booms and all kinds of batons in stock. Anything they donot have can be shipped in on short order. They are happy to work on your yachtand make repairs aloft. They have machines both for swaging and rod rigging.They also have a good chandlery (see Chandlery). Caraibes Greement also has aninstallation and repair section run by by Jean-Louis, who speaks good English.See him for complete sales and repair service for electrics, electronics,refrigeration, and watermakers. They are agent for Sea Recovery, HRO, and Aquaset watermakers, for Kohler Generators, Danforthrefrigeration, and Cruisair air conditioning. They also stock batteries, solarpanels, and wind generators and you will find all kinds of electricalcomponents, including Link and Blue Sea, as well as electrical parts, waterfilters, and more.

Denny Renault is the man to see for sales and service ofSuzuki outboards; you can find him or drop off engines at Turquoise Yachting,his charter company.

Frederic Moser at Tilikum [VHP: 16] is now in his newcontainer office next to Sparkling Charter. He is the best man for refrigerationand he is also good with electrics. He speaks English and does new installationas well as repairs, either air or water-cooled, and he can figure out the bestsystem for you. He has stacks of spares in his shops, and he often doesconversion of the older power hungry systems to the newer more efficient ones,using small compressors, sometimes several together.

All other services are close to the CareneAntilles compound.Those with inflatables will be glad to know that La Survy (just outside thegates) offers a repair service. It is run by Pascal Phillias and the rest of thefamily and they have over 30 years of experience. Their modern shop istemperature and humidity controlled and they will fix any kind of inflatable.They also repair and are warranty agents for Zodiac, Avon, Bombard, andPlastimo. Several tenders and life rafts are on show, with more in stock. Theyalso sell fishing gear, accessories, and fun stuff like Sevylor kyaks and beachboats.

You can bring your electrical problems to Frantz Larochelle's Sud Marine Electronique, also inCareneAntilles. He has a good reputation and fixes everything electrical,including starters and alternators. With electronics he prefers to work onRaytheon, Navcom, Incastec, and Eagle electronics and will supply or repairthese brands. He can look at other electronic problems, but may not have thespares.

Talba Gaston's Martinique Sud Sablage (Nautic Services) inthe CarenAntilles compound is the place to get your boat's antifouling, epoxy,or coal tar priming done. Gaston has a sandblaster, and he does wet sandblastingof fiberglass hulls, the best way to remove old paint without damaging thegelcoat. He also polishes hulls. In addition, he ships yachts long distance andmakes the cradles for them. Gaston does commercial diving and rents scuba gear,usually to yacht parties going on charter.

Camille Pancaldi at Plastik Services is the man to see forfiberglass repair, osmosis treatment, and topside paint jobs. Camille does allthe structural repairs and osmosis work for Beneteau in Martinique.

Mecanique Plaisance has their largest repair workshop here.This is the work side of their fancy shop in the marina. They repair mainlyPerkins, Volvo, Westerbeke, and Yanmar engines and generators, and Tohatsuoutboards, but if they have time then can help with other motors. There is easyaccess to come alongside to remove the engine.

Voile Assistance, next to Mechanique Plaisance, is a small,friendly, and personal sail repair and canvas shop owned and run by Didier andMaria who do the work. They build awnings, biminis, cushions and covers,including fancy inflatable covers, and will repair sails. They also sellsailcloth and canvas by the yard.

As you come off the dock, Altec Marine is in a big newbuilding in the corner of the yard ahead and to the right. This is a goodmachine and fabrication shop run by Margiotta Luigi. Apart from machining theydo aluminum and stainless welding and make many bimini frames.

For woodwork see Jean-Pierre at Les As Tecks. He is friendlyand helpful, will sell teak and marine ply in the sizes you want, and if youhave a do-it-yourself project, he will shape some wood to your specs.

Roby Mechanic is the outboard man ~ agent for Tohatsu, Yamahaand Mercury ~ but he will fix your outboard whatever it's called. It is best tocontact him before 1500.

Jean-luc Ledoux has a company called Techni Marine Services,he will help with any yachting problem: rigging, finding parts, haul-out work,and complete refits.

Bernard Blaineau of Antilles Greement is a good generalrigging man, he can help you out and come and work on your boat.

Artimer is the big new development next to Carenantilles.Much if it is designed around the boating trade, with large sheds designed totake whole boats under cover for painting (they will come in throughCarenAntilles). It has been cleverly designed to use the river and you candinghy right up. The entrance is shown on our chart. Approach from where we havethe dry dock marked. (Take it easy, especially at low tide.) When you reachArtimer, a landing bay and small boat launch ramp have been build fight in.There is plenty of room to leave your dinghy. The completed complex will includean inexpensive hotel for those hauling out and a restaurant.

Voile Caraibes have their giant loft here ~ some 6000 squarefeet of state-of-the-art design. Herve Lepault, the owner, and his team cantackle any size of job. Sails may be bought in by launch or truck and hoistedstraight up into the loft on a giant traveler system. It is a large efficientloft, so turnaround time on repairs is fast. Herve also has an upholsterydepartment for boat cushions. New sails are by Incidence, the well-known Frenchsailmaker, computer-designed in France and sewn here. With these new premises,there is plenty of capacity for making new sails fast.

You will be in good hands with Yvon Icare at Antilles MarineServices, who speaks English and is an excellent diesel specialist. He is agentfor Nannidiesel and Man engines and keeps a good range in stock, from 10 h.p.upwards. For larger engines, he stocks Iveco. He is an agent for Hurth and ZF drives andDessalator watermakers. He has been so successful that he now generally onlyworks on these brands. He is happy to sell new engines and watermakers, which hekeeps in stock. His shop is in the new Artimer complex, not too far from thedinghy landing.

Artimer is also the home base of Thierry's Yachting EquipmentServices (YES). Thierry speaks English and will fix anything electrical, as wellas watermakers and refrigeration systems. The YES team will also sell andinstall new electrical equipment, watermakers, and some refrigeration systems.They make visits all over Martinique in their handy little service vans.

EM composites is the other side of the river fromCarenAntilles; just walk out of the gate and keep turning right. Etienne Marandoes fiberglass construction: fishing boats, dinghies, tanks, and two partpoly-urethane spray painting. He has waterside access for large runabouts or very small yachts.

Tony Crater works in a container in back of EM Composites. Hehas tig and plasma welding and fabricates, welds, and polishes stainless andaluminum and makes many bimini frames.

Another car rental of interest is Madin-Loc, run by M.Salomon, behind Caribizz. His rates are very reasonable and he rents cars forthree hours to half a day for those who want to provision, pick up people at theairport, or collect spares. However, he is usually booked solid.

A high-speed ferry runs between Marin Marina and Rodney BayMarina. The office is above 3S.

If it is your yacht you want to move, check Dockwise YachtTransport upstairs in the marina, near Tropical Yacht Services.

Provisioning in Marin is good. There is anew provisioningservice called Caribizz near Sunsail Charters. You can dinghy close by. It isrun by Steve and Pascal, who are friendly and helpful and Steve speaks goodEnglish. They have a full on-line supermarket at Caribizz.fr ~ the click and buysetup is easy and will work well for those wanting to organize theirprovisioning before they arrive for a holiday. If you are in Marin already you can call them on VHP 72, or wander in and perusetheir stock and lists. They have over a thousand items in stock but, given acouple of days, will also source anything you need. They deliver to the nearestdock or will put everything in your dinghy outside their building. They open at0730 and are there till 2000 and often later.

The Annette family owns the two big supermarkets in the area.The larger one is a Champion supermarket in the Centre Commercial Annettejust behind CarenAn-tilles in a mall whose other stores include a bookshop,photo store, beauty shops, gift shops, and a boulangerie/patisserie andro-tisserie. It is a big supermarket and ample for a large provisioning, withgood meat, cheese, and wine sections. It is a fairly long walk to Champion fromthe marina, but you can dinghy to CarenAntilles and walk up. A little localMarin bus goes round and round the town and passes by this supermarket. Theirother store, Supermarche Annette, is right in town, an easy walk up from themarina. It is a good-sized market, light and airy, with a broad election of meat, frozen fish,and fresh produce. Both Annette supermarkets offer free delivery to thewaterfront in Marin or they can arrange a taxi for you. You can also fax for afood list and order in advance.

Leader Price is also close by the docks. It is a reasonablypriced market, very popular with locals and often has good fresh produce. Manythings they sell, like Real Cola, are their own brand. Mix it with enough rhumand lime, and no one will ever know.

You can buy live lobsters at Kai Lobster opposite the backside of the supermarket.

Fishing enthusiasts will appreciate Marin Pecheur in themarina. Souvenir hunters will find numerous shops to choose from. Mymy Boutique,in the big block opposite the yacht club and marina head office, has a good mixof .affordable gifts, pareos, bathing suits, and the Saint James line of casualwear, including those striped shirts used for the French navy. Owner MyriamGrasset opens her store from 0830 to 1830.

Marin has many good restaurants where you will be welcome inshorts. Mango Bay [$B-D] is right in the marina with a pleasant view over theyachts in the marina. This is an excellent place to come for breakfast and lunchas they also own the adjoining Deli-France, with fresh bread being baked much ofthe day and excellent sandwiches, croissants, and pain au chocolat available.Their bar is a gathering place in the evenings for many yacht crews, with livemusic on weekends. Daily specials, as well as pizzas and ribs, are served forboth lunch and dinner.

Marin Mouillage [$D] is right behind the marina. They do abrisk lunch trade with tasty local specials, and are open as a bar in theevenings. On Friday and Saturday evenings they barbecue spare ribs. They arevery busy, as the food is good and reasonably priced.

L'Auberge du Marin [$B-D] is in town.

It is quaint and entertaining with lots of atmosphere and isvery popular with in the evenings, so it is best to go early (dinner starts at1930). Gerard and Nadine Michelon cook good French-style family food at areasonable price. L'Auberge de Marin is open every night and most days forlunch.

Ti Toques [$B-D] is a pleasant and smart street-sidecafe/restaurant. They do pizza and ice cream as well as many local dishes, whichyou can eat there or take-out.

Indigo [$B-C] is a custom built floating restaurant withwaterfront seats all around. Creole food as well as grilled meats and fish areon the menu.

La Carene [$C-D] is upstairs right in the CarenAntillescompound, with a good view of your half-finished project or the harbor. It has apopular pub type atmosphere and the food is generally good and reasonablypriced.

Calebasse Cafe is in town across the road from the beach.This is the town's active nightspot, with good music starting at around 2100, soyou have time to come for dinner first. They also do lunch, but not too early.They have a few internet computers where people sit in the quiet during the day,checking their email. Stop by and pick up a program.

Restaurant La Paillote Cayali [$C-D] has a great locationright on the beach in Marin. Sit out next to the waves and eat a variety oflocal specialties at reasonable prices. Open every day all day.

Le Brochet [$C] has a pleasant outside seating area where youcan watch the world go by, as well as an air-conditioned dining room.

If you are near Sunsail at lunchtime, Chez Didier opens forcoffee in the morning and is

a good spot for a light lunch.

If you rent a car or hike, make an effort to climb the hillon the west side of Marin for the spectacular view it affords not only acrossthe bay but, from some places, to Baie des Anglais. As you leave Marin and headfor Fort de France, there is a roundabout just opposite Islet Dupres. Follow thesignposts for Morne Glommier and enjoy the ridge.

Marin is a good area to shake the rust off your old bike andgive it a run. The road up to le Cap and over to Macouba is pleasant, and fromhere trails lead south along the coast.

Nautica Antilles is an excellent diving equipment shop in themarina. You can buy gear here or you can rent it for your cruise, includingcompressors. If you want something you do not see, ask, as Nautica Antilles isalso linked to a larger retail outlet near the airport. You can also go divingwith Marin Plongee in the marina.

This guide covers all the most frequently used anchorages butdoes not include most of Martinique's east coast. This area is pleasant andinteresting, but it is also tricky, with many reefs and shoals in water that isoften difficult to read. The charts that are available are short on detailswhere it matters, and over the years it has claimed more than its fair share ofhulls. Adventurous cruisers who wish to visit should buy the Trois Rivieresguide to Martinique by Jerome Nouel. It is in French and English, with excellentcolor photographs, and is the only guide that covers this area well. A newedition is now available. We do include Baie des Anglais, the closest east coastanchorage.

BAIE DES ANGLAIS

The wine locker is full, you are stuffed on restaurant meals,you've seen enough elegant boutiques to last a lifetime. What next? Consider afew days of quiet recovery in Baie des Anglais. Baie des Anglais is less thanthree miles up Martinique's east coast. It is a large mangrove lined bay, withsome small beaches and several little islands for dinghy exploration. There areno restaurants, no shops, and while there may be another boat or two, you arelikely to have it to yourself.

Regulations

All the islands at the entrance to Baie des Anglais,including Ilet Hardy, Ilet Perce, Ilet Burgaux, and Ilet Tois Roux are bird sanctuaries and going ashore is not permitted.

Navigation

The navigation is tricky and Baie des Anglais should only bevisited in relatively light trade winds (<15 knots). The entrance is downwind and down sea. Enter between Ilet Hardy and the group of islands thatinclude Ilet Perce, Ilet Burgaux, and Ilet Tois Roux. Ilet Hardy has adistinctive rock knoll on its southeastern shore. Once past Ilet Hardy, look forthe two reefs to the northwest of Ilet Perce and pass fairly close to them. (Youwill see Fond Blanc to starboard.) Note that there are quite a few isolatedrocks just to the east of Ilet Aigrettes. By now the seas should be relativelycalm and you will find there is a large daytime anchoring area about 20 feetdeep to the west of Fond Blanc between Ilet Aigrettes and the visible reef onthe other side of the channel.

Your strategy from here on in depends on your draft, the sizeof your engine, the strength of the wind, and whether your insurance premium isup to date. You have to cross a bar of soft mud in unreadable water with the wind right behind you. For boats of less than 6-footdraft there will probably be little problem. For boats of 6.5 -foot or 7 -footdraft, the width of the deepest channel is very narrow, and at low tide soundsout at about seven and half feet. The only seaman-like thing to do is to anchorin the deep water and sound out the channel with a lead line in your dinghy. Asyou look at Ilet des Parletuviers, you will see an old mill tower just behindit, a little to its left. A range I found helpful is to be on a line between thenorthern edge of Ilet Burgaux and this old mill tower. The deepest water isprobably a hair to the southwest of this line. Once over the bar you have plentyof water and many perfectly protected anchoring spots; inside Ilet desParletuviers is the most popular. If you dinghy over to the shore near IletAigrettes, you can find a way through to Anse Trabaud, a lovely but fairlypopular beach. Dinghy exploration is also good up to Ilet Chevalier.

Go to Baie des Anglais well provisioned, because should thewind and sea get up while you are there, seas break across the entrance and youmay have to wait a while to get out.

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