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Mustique at a glance

The water around Mustique is a conservation area. Mustique has moorings and charges conservation fees for staying overnight. See Mustique text for details.

If you need clearance, customs and immigration are at the airport.

Jet skis and the like are strictly forbidden, as is spearfishing and anchoring on coral. Water-skiing is not permitted in the yacht anchorage area.

Vessels carrying more than 25 passengers are not allowed in Mustique.

Day charter yachts visiting Mustique pay a landing fee of $25 EC per head; for details, see Berris Little at Mustique Moorings (VHF:16/68, (784) 488-8575).

Corea's food store: Mon-Sat, 0800-1200, 1500-1800. Boutiques: 0900-1200 and 1400-1800. Treasure boutique, Ali's and Corea's are open Sunday mornings.

See St. Vincent.

Most Mustique numbers start (784) - 488 + four digits. If you are using a private phone in Mustique you just dial the last four digits of 488 numbers. The most well-used such phone is in Basil's Bar.

Basil's, 8500

Coreas, 8479

Firefly, 8414

Treasure, 8603

Dive shop, 8486

Mustique Moorings, 8575

Horse riding, 8316

MMS (bike, mule rental) 8555

Mustique Company, 8000, F:9000

Airport, 8336

Doctor, 8353

Cotton House (784)-456-4777

See also St. Vincent.

Rental mules (heavy-duty golf carts) Mountain bikes, and motorbikes are available from Mustique Mechanical Services (MMS). You need a local license for mechanical transport, which costs $50 EC. Drive on the left.

Mustique is unique among the Grenadines. It is a privately owned island that has been developed as an area of holiday homes for the wealthy. Mansions with tennis courts and swimming pools sit on rolling grassy hills and long lawns stretch to sandy beaches. Each house lies in spacious grounds; there are only about 90 on the whole island, plus one hotel, a guesthouse, one beach bar, a few boutiques, a small local village, and a fishing camp. A roll call of those who have owned property reveals some glamorous names, including Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Raquel Welch and the late Princess Margaret. Parts of the island are wild; other areas are well tended. About half the houses are available for rent when the owners are not in residence. Many older homes were designed by Oliver Messel and are delightful to look at, with a showy but dignified appeal. As you would expect for an island of this type, prices are relatively high.

Montezuma Shoal is about half to three-quarters of a mile west of Britannia Bay. It presents a real hazard and has ground pieces off the hulls of a cruise ship, a large charter yacht and many a bareboat. A red-and-black striped beacon is placed on the reef. Stay at least a quarter of a mile away. (If you can see the colors, you are probably too close.) If you come from the south, do not follow the coast too closely as there is also quite a reef extending seaward from the southern point of Britannia Bay.

The only permissible anchorage is in Britannia Bay. (Special day charter groups wanting a lunch stop in Endeavour Bay must contact Berris Little of Mustique Moorings in advance.)

The water is sparkling clear and this is a lovely area for swimming and snorkeling. The anchorage is generally rather roily.

The Mustique Company controls all the coastal waters of Mustique. Yachts may only moor in Britannia Bay. There is a conservation fee that entitles you to a three-consecutive-night stay. This fee is: up to 35 feet: $50; 36-70 feet: $75; 71-85 feet: $150, 86-100 feet: $275, and over 100 feet: $375. There are 30 moorings, which you must use if your yacht is 70 feet or less in length. Larger yachts should anchor in deep water to seaward of the moorings. Pay your fee to Berris Little, the harbormaster (his hut is at the end of the jetty). Make sure you get a full official receipt for everything you pay.

Attach your own line to the top of the buoy and leave as much scope as possible so you do not overstrain the mooring. Use two lines one to each side of your bow. Yachts of 6-7 foot draft can use any mooring, and deeper yachts should use the outer moorings over sand. If all the moorings are taken, you can try to find a spot between them, or anchor to their west. Do not anchor around the southern moorings; they are close to the reef, which is protected by law. Leave a clear channel to the main dock. (Anchored yachts still pay.)

Mustique, although exclusive, is friendly and open to yachting visitors. Please help keep it this way. Use common courtesy ~ stick to the roads, do not walk up people's driveways or onto private property. Take scenic photos for your own use, but do not take photos of residents. Press photography is forbidden unless by permission of the Mustique Company.

Mustique has an excellent library, run by Shelly-Ann. You can come here and catch up on the internet (four computers) or read the latest magazines and peruse their books. You can also send faxes or do photocopies. Contributions of good books are always welcome.

There is garbage disposal at the head of the dock. Thank you for helping keep Mustique clean.

When you realize the roll is so bad you will never be able to sleep a wink, contact Firefly House or The Cotton House to see if they have available rooms. (Basil's Bar can put you in touch.)

You will find a small supermarket ashore and a fish market in the fishing village where you can buy fresh fish and lobster in season. Basil has a gourmet shop that sells wines, cheeses and a few specialty foods. In season, Mathew sets up his vegetable store near Basil's on Tuesday afternoon and is there all Wednesday. He returns Friday afternoon and is sometimes there all day Saturday.

Come morning, many Mustique residents put on the coffee pot and head down to Sweetie Pie Bakery [VHP: 68] to stock up on fresh croissants, pain au chocolat and Danish, along with many other pastries. French owner Ali bakes these plus many excellent kinds of bread. This is a great place for charter yachts to stock up and Ali will be happy to discuss your requirements. Give him a little notice for large orders. Ali opens 06304230 then 15004730, and has a couple of tables so you can enjoy a coffee. This is also the place to come for over 150 daily and weekly newspapers in almost any language. Choose from their list and they then print you the paper (full edition) on demand.

One good reason to step ashore is to visit Johanna Morris's little shops: Treasure, and Treasure Fashion. Treasure Fashion, the purple house, specializes in elegant and exotic clothing for both men and women. It has everything from bathing suits to smart and casual wear by such names as Ralph Lauren, La Perla and Cook Change. Men's clothing includes an excellent selection of shorts in many styles and smart casual wear by Tommy Hilfiger. Both will enjoy the new Lorenzini line of fine Italian linen shirts in many wonderful colors.

Treasure has a delightful collection of clothes and toys, including casual wear and swim suits. Plenty of hats, shoes, snorkeling gear, sunblocks, and cosmetics are here, as are local books, film, maps, games, gifts and souvenirs of every description. Buy your postcards here and they will mail them for you.

Basil has two shops. Basil's Boutique is over in Basil's Bar, and Across Forever, on the other side of the road, is an antique and collectibles shop. Basil travels to far eastern ports and brings back his favorite items for the shops.

The Cotton House has a boutique on the left just before Endeavour Bay in the same building as the Gym.

Stan and Elizabeth, from England, own a guesthouse and bar/restaurant called Firefly [$A, VHP: 10]. The dramatic view down over the floodlit swimming pool to Britannia Bay is beautiful. The atmosphere is elegant and a touch formal yet friendly, making it popular with those who spend time on the island. Regulars always gather round the bar in the evening and a piano occasionally inspires one of them to play for a while. Their food is excellent; an inventive blend of Caribbean cuisine using fresh ingredients. You will love the desserts. Wander up for lunch or dinner. The short walk up will whet your appetite, but for those who prefer to ride, a staff member will come and collect dinner guests from the dock.

For superb cuisine in lavish elegance, don your best evening pants or a dress (it is somewhat formal) and call the Cotton House [VHP: 68, $A]. It is about a 15-minute walk away, but if you make dinner reservations they are happy to come and get you. Now run by Mustique Company, Cotton House is one of the fanciest hotels in the Caribbean. They usually have top chefs and, when on form, produce the best cuisine on the island. The Beach Cafe at Cotton House (on the beach in Endeavour Bay) is a great place to come for a morning coffee and pastry, for an ice cream, or for lunch (1230-1500). The Beach Cafe is also available in the evening for private functions. Cotton House also has a gym and masseuse is available by appointment to visitors, and they have occasional entertainment ~ ask for details.

Basil's Bar [VHP: 68, $A-B], the most informal establishment on Mustique, is built of thatch and bamboo, and is perched on stilts over the water, with waves lapping underneath. This is the Caribbean's most famous beach bar and is the place to meet people, to contact other establishments on the island, relax and look at the sunset, or just to get off your rolling boat for dinner (seafood and lobster a specialty). Many come just for the popular Wednesday night barbecue buffet, which is followed by a jump-up. Basil organizes an excellent blues festival towards the end of January to early February.

Mustique is well worth a tour on foot or by taxi, mechanical mule, mountain- or motorbike, or horse. Mustique has wonderful walks and hikes, with miles of unspoiled beaches and countryside. Nature trails have been placed towards the south of the island. Descriptions are given in Exploring the Flora and Fauna of Mustique (available at Treasure).

If you turn right at the main dock and follow the road southward, then change to the path that follows the shore, you will have a delightful walk and come to a perfect beach at Lagoon Bay. Hiking to the windward side of Mustique is rewarding. The windward beach at Macaroni Bay makes a good spot to stop for a swim.

Horseback riding is done in the cool of the day, at 0800, 0900, 1500 or 1600. Vanessa Green keeps her horses well trained. Rental mules (heavy duty golf carts), mountain- and motorbikes are available through Mustique Mechanical Services or Mustique Moorings.

You can arrange to go sailboarding or diving at Mustique Water Sports [VHP: 68]. Brian Richards, the dive instructor and manager, is very good and will pick divers up from their yachts when space is available. The water is generally very clear and diving is pleasant.

Walk-in Reef is just off the dive shop dock and ideal for beginners. For South Britannia Drift Dive you let the current carry you through a delightful garden of soft corals as you watch large schools of Bermuda chubs and Creole wrasses. The occasional sight of an eagle ray makes it perfect. The Wreck of the Jonas, a 90-foot dredge, lies in 40 feet of water on the east side of Montezurna Shoal. Beautiful coral formations there are home to barracudas and nurse sharks. At South East Pillory Drift Dive the current sweeps you along a steep slope, which drops from 20 feet to 90 feet. The scenery is always changing as you go along, with lots of reef fish and large soft corals. Dry Rock (on the south side of Petit Mustique) is the place for the big fish: schools of barracudas, nurse sharks, and rays. You often see turtles too.

Ganouan (For information on holidays, customs, etc., see St. Vincent)

Ganouan is an island in transition. A decade ago it was a sleepy island that time forgot. Then Italian developers bought somewhat over half the island (the northern part), and a new era of big development began. The vast injection of new money has rapidly transformed the island, with many fancy new houses built by locals. The new development is a gated one, with guards at the entry points, and locals and visitors alike need permission to enter. The big, fancy new hotel and golf course opened for a while then closed for expansion. It should by now be open, with Trump running the casino and offering luxury apartments and Raffles running the resort end. There are plans to expand the runway to take large jets. When this happens, Glossy Hill will be removed. From the visitor's point of view there are spectacular beaches, great views, and lovely walks almost anywhere.

The Moorings has a base here for about 20 boats right next to the Tamarind Beach Hotel. This brings charterers right into the heart of the Grenadines, allowing them to cruise with short, easy sails. Weather is posted daily. They have a large dock and don't mind visiting yacht tenders on the south side. You may need a decent anchor to hold you clear. In big swells all docks are dangerous.

Rameau Bay is a pleasant spot far from the village. You may have to try a couple of times to get the anchor well dug in, and the wind shifts around, so two anchors are advisable. Corbay is a small anchorage but one of the most protected on the island. It is sometimes used for bringing materials in, so it is occasionally noisy. At other times it is great. If you anchor off the landing dock, you may have to move if cargo arrives.

Charlestown Bay is the main anchorage and the entrance is marked by a red and green beacon on either side. Pass between them. You can anchor anywhere in the bay except for the area close to the Tamarind Hotel Beach, which is full of Marcus's Moorings. The anchorage is pleasant, but northeasterly winds with northerly swells can make it uncomfortable and, in extreme conditions, even untenable. The holding in sand is fairly good.

The wind tends to get held up in the hills and then shoots down from the north in intense gusts. Boats swing every which way.

There is a large ferry dock off the beach, the big new Moorings dock, the dinghy dock off the Tamarind Beach 1 Intel, and a .small wooden dock in the southern part ot the bay.

You can check out your email at Tamarind Beach Hotel or Ocean View next door. Ocean View has two computers and is open as long as Gus and Luenda Pascal are around, normally from 0700 to about 2000 except Friday, when they close at 1600 and stay closed till Saturday evening at 1630. If you don't see anyone, look at the small house on the right inside the entrance ~ there is a bell on the window ~ give it a push. You can get breakfast, and they also cook dinner to order, and have rooms for rent.

Marcus [VHP: 16] rents moorings for $40 EC a night and has introduced the excellent service of selling ice, water, and gasoline, which he will bring alongside in his tender. Always ask for a receipt for the mooring or you may end up paying a Marcus impersonator and have to pay twice. Marcus's moorings are plain white and are in front of the Tamarind Beach Hotel. The other moorings are owned by the Moorings and are marked ~ they are for Moorings charter boats only. Marcus also has a Jeep taxi.

Tamarind Beach Hotel [VHP: 16] sells bread and ice, and they have a laundry service. They can help you dispose of well-wrapped garbage. Taxis are available; ask at reception. All Tamarind Beach Hotel personnel wear uniforms ~ anyone else claiming staff membership is conning you.

You can put your dinghy on the Tamarind Beach Hotel dock, or the south side of the Moorings dock. Great caution is needed in times of northerly swells, when you will need an anchor to hold your dinghy off the docks; occasionally they will be impossible to use. The Moorings posts daily weather reports, and are generally helpful, but they offer no other services to visiting yachts.

Canouan Foodstore is right by the Moorings and is open Monday to Saturday 0800-1300 and 1600-1800, Sundays 0900-1100. They have a good selection for a small market, including quite a few local and imported vegetables. In the village you will find several general stores selling basics, as well as a bank. In addition the Moorings and Ocean View have boutiques.

The Tamarind Beach Hotel [VHP: 16, $A-D] is part of the Canouan Resort Development, and yachts are welcome. This elegant hotel has two waterfront restaurants under picturesque thatched roofs that have been built in the traditional South American method. The Pirate Cove Bar and Restaurant is informal and inexpensive. You will be welcome here barefoot and in shorts. (Use the Moorings dock.) Comfortable seats in a garden setting overlooking the bay make this an ideal hangout. Pirate Cove opens at 1600, and sandwiches and hamburgers are available anytime. Pizzas and pasta come on line after 1900. La Palapa is the larger restaurant, and is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. You will want to wear at least long trousers, a sports shirt, and flip-flops as it is somewhat more formal, and try to make reservations in advance, as space is limited.

The Canouan Resort Development owns the whole northern end of the island. The area surrounding Mount Royal is being left as a nature reserve, and they have already marked a hiking trail to the top (ask at the hotel for details). When completed, the expanded Frangipani golf course will be open for a fee. The main roadways that have been built in the north make for wonderful hiking, but you need to get permission to go there. You can make a circular tour, stopping at the gorgeous beach in Maho Bay at the northern end of the island. The new Canouan Resort has tennis courts, 52 villas, 180 rooms, a casino, and a beachside restaurant and bar overlooking a vast and fancy swimming pool. You can get permission to visit for a meal or the casino ~ ask at the front desk.

For a local meal out, there are several possibilities; all welcome yachtspeople. Catherine's bar and restaurant [$C-D] is up on a hill with a commanding view. (Turn left out of the Tamarind, walk uphill, and take your first right.) Catherine is no longer with us, but her children do their best. Their menu includes lobster, fish, chicken, beef, pork, lamb chops, and rotis. The prices are good, and you can sit inside or outside, open to the view. With a party of four or more the captain gets his meal for free.

Higher up the hill, Silver Lining [$C-D], owned by Hudson deRoche, has a spectacular location on the ridge, with panoramic views over both sides of the island ~ both to the bay and to the lagoon behind the reef on the east. It occasionally opens as does Pompoy's Bar and Restaurant, at the other end of town, where the main road turns towards the airport.

Hyacinth Alexander's Honey Crome restaurant [$D], behind the police station, serves fish and chicken for lunch. She opens for dinner by request. Pass by and discuss what you would like to eat. Her little store sometimes has local frozen fish for sale. Glimpses Bar and Restaurant [$D], right behind the main dock, is owned by seafarer Coredis Sargeant. It opens Monday to Saturday, lunch and dinner, for inexpensive local snacks like rotis and chicken 'n chips ~ meals need a little notice.

A really roily anchorage can be found by the Canouan Beach Hotel in South Glossy Bay. The water here is gorgeous, and so is the beach. I would recommend it for a lunch stop. A reader has warned of a large excavator shovel sunk about 250 yards from the beach, abeam of the easternmost sun-shelter. It might endanger deep-draft yachts and makes an effective anchor trap.

The dinghy dock can be perilous in swells, and currents make swimming ashore inadvisable. The CBH restaurant is usually open.

Keen snorkelers might be interested in a daytime stop at Friendship Bay on Canouan's south coast. Approach past Glossy Bay, pass between Dove Cay and Canouan, and follow the coast, keeping a good lookout for coral heads. Friendship Bay is usually a bit roily but is the best anchorage in large northerly swells or unusual northerly winds. In settled conditions you can dinghy up the windward side of Canouan inside the reefs, where the snorkeling is excellent. (You can get some of the way up with about 6-foot draft, but this is only for very experienced navigators in exceptionally calm conditions.)

At least ten good dives can be found in Canouan. There are walls with giant boulders and sloping reefs, and sharks, turtles, and rays are often spotted. For those diving on their own, the easiest spot to anchor for a dive is in Corbay. Dive to seaward of the rocky headland on the northern side of the bay. You can also dinghy north up the coast and look for your own spot. Another good dive, if you are anchored in South Glossy Bay, is right around Glossy Hill. Watch out for currents. Snorkeling is good around the rocks in Rameau Bay.

Canouan Dive Center is based in The Moorings complex. Owners Andy and Julie skippered for the Moorings for three years and have been in the islands for seven. They have a 27-foot, bimini-clad pirogue and are happy to rendezvous with yachts in Canouan, the Tobago Cays, Mayreau, and Union. They work closely with Dive Bequia, so courses or dive packages started in the Grenadines can be finished in Bequia.

From Canouan to Carriacou, the Grenadines huddle together, each just a short hop from the next. The islands are generally small and quiet.

Any island with a few inhabitants will also have a rum shop where you can meet people and learn to drink Jack Iron ~ a powerful, rough white rum, sometimes distilled far from government inspectors. A small shot is poured into a glass, and the idea is to down it all in one gulp, preferably without tasting. Then you reach for a large glass of water to put out the fire.

The current sets to the west most of the time, so head east of your destination until you have got the feel of its strength. The southern Grenadines are strewn with keel-hungry reefs. This is the area where people make the most mistakes, and several yachts have been lost. Usually this is because they misidentify islands. If you approach this area with just a shade of apprehension and self-questioning, you should be okay.

Several navigational beacons help. Most of them are on the edge of shoals, so keep well clear.

When you round Glossy (Glass) Hill at Canouan, you must be sure you know which island is which. Mayreau lies in front of Union, and some people see the two as one island and then mistake the Tobago Cays for Mayreau. If you are heading for the lee of Mayreau, your compass heading should be around 225-230° magnetic. If you find yourself sailing between south and 200°, you are probably heading for the Tobago Cays. . . and trouble.

Tobago Cays. If you approach the Tobago Cays from the north, the easiest and best route is as follows: after you round Glossy Hill, head for the middle of Mayreau (about 228° magnetic). As you approach Mayreau you can see Baleine Rocks. Leave these to port, giving them reasonable clearance, and sail on until you are about halfway between them and Mayreau before heading up into the Tobago Cays. Line up the day markers in the Cays if you can see them. (Note: Petit Rameau and Petit Bateau look like one island for much of the approach.)

An alternative and much trickier approach is to head-a bit to the east of Mayreau from Glossy Hill, and then sail a 100 yards to the east of Baleine rocks, between the rocks and the northwest end of Horseshoe Reef. This entrance channel is about a quarter-of-a-mile wide, and Horseshoe Reef is often not visible, so caution is advised. The current can be strong, so make sure you are not being set down onto the rocks. Once past the rocks, hold course until the day markers line up (see Tobago Cays sketch chart), then head up into the islands.

Mayreau. When approaching Mayreau, pass well to the east of the black-and-yellow beacon marking Dry Shingle. When sailing round the lee of Mayreau, watch out for the reef off Grand Col Point, which is sometimes marked by a

red buoy, but the color and even the buoy are not reliable. Pass well outside this reef. When heading over to Palm or Union, you need to head well up, at least to the middle of Palm Island, until you figure out how much you are being set down, as the current can be very strong. Watching Union airport against Carriacou gives an idea of current set. Union's deadly windward reef (Newlands Reef) extends halfway to Palm Island, so you have to sail almost to Palm before heading west into Clifton Harbour. Note that there are three red beacons on Newlands Reef. You leave these to starboard as you head into Clifton. Swing in a curve well outside them.

Grand de Coi, between Union and Palm, is a dangerous reef, almost never seen till it is too late. There is a yellow-and-black beacon on its western side. You must always pass to the west (Union Island side) of this beacon, keeping well clear. Numerous yachts have gone aground here, and many destroyed, usually coming from PSV to Palm or Union. The following pointers may also be helpful in gauging your position.

All directions: When there is a gap between PSV and Petite Martinique, you are too far south to hit Grand de Coi. When this gap is closed, keep clear of Grand de Coi by watching the western side of May-reau against the new Union Island airport. If you keep the west of Mayreau behind the airport you will be west of Grand de Coi. A gap between the two stands you in danger. For all directions south: Sail right down to the entrance of Clifton Harbor, then pass west of the Grand de Coi beacon. To Carriacou: Head toward the northwest coast. When you approach Hills-borough it is safest to pass to the west of Jack a Dan before rounding up into town. To PSV: When you have passed Grand de Coi, steer for the east side of Carriacou till PSV bears due east, then head on in, passing well to the south of Mopion, Pinese, and all their surrounding reefs. Keep an eye on current set and compensate if necessary. A much trickier and more dangerous way is to pass between the two little sand, cays Mopion and Pinese. The course from the lee side of Grand de Coi is around 165-170° magnetic, though with current you may have to head considerably more to the east. A bearing of 160° magnetic on the highest peak of Petite Martinique takes you close enough to eyeball your way in. Mopion usually has a small thatch shelter on it. Always sail through the center of the passage, and do not round up too soon, as the reef extends about a quarter of a mile southwest of Mopion (see our PSV and Petite Martinique chart). Treat this passage with caution. 

Sailing north

From Carriacou to Clifton and Palm: The safest route is to pass to the west of Jack a Dan, and then follow the coast up to Rapid Point. From Rapid Point, aim for the east side of Union, checking on the current set by watching Frigate Island against Union. As you near Union, you should be able to see the reefs between Frigate and Clifton. Do not get too close to these, as the current and wind are setting you down on them. On the other hand, keep a good eye out for the Grand de Coi reef to the east. Stay to the west of the beacon that marks this reef (see also Grand de Coi notes, above under Mayreau).

From PSV to Union: Sail due west till you are on a line between the east coasts of Carriacou and Union before changing course to Clifton. Before the gap closes between PSV and Petite Martinique, edge westward till the finger of land on the western side of Mayreau disappears behind the new Union Island airport. Pass to the west of the Grand de Coi beacon. Experienced sailors could head out between Mopion and Pinese and then head for the Pinnacle until the finger of land on the western side of Mayreau disappears behind the new Union Island airport, or until the Grand de Coi beacon is identified. Always pass well to the west of the Grand de Coi beacon.

From Palm northwards: Always sail round the lee of Mayreau. Pass to the west of Grand Col Point staying well clear of the reef. Then, as you get to the north of Mayreau, stay well east of Dry Shingle (marked by a black-and-yellow beacon), which extends eastward from Catholic Island.

Approaching the Tobago Cays from the south: Sail round the lee of Mayreau, then head straight up toward the middle of the Cays. If you are tacking under sail, favor the Mayreau side of the channel when passing Baleine Rocks to avoid the one fathom shoal to their south. There is a southern entrance to the Cays, but it is tricky and should not be attempted without local knowledge. Many charter yachts have run aground here. However, if you are in the Cays on a quiet day with good reef visibility, you could try leaving by this route.

When leaving the Cays to go north: The safest route is to sail from the anchorage to the north end of Mayreau, then head northward after you have passed Baleine Rocks. There is also a channel to the east of Baleine Rocks about a quarter of a mile wide. From the Cays, you have to head just south of the rocks until you reach the channel and then turn north, or you are in danger of hitting the western edge of Horseshoe Reef.

When the water is clear, the diving in the southern Grenadines is wonderful, though currents can be strong, and many dives have to be done as drift dives. There are good dive shops, and you do not have to go there ~ one call and a dive boat will come by and pick you up from your yacht in the Tobago Cays, Mayreau, or Union.

Two good dive shops cover this area, overlapping in the central area.

Grenadine Divers [VHP: 16/68] is a pleasant, relaxed dive operation run by Glenroy Adams from Bequia and based in Union. Glenroy has the most experience in this area, and has done much for environmental education in Union, and the conservation of the Tobago Cays. Glenroy will collect you from your yacht in Union, Mayreau, PSV, or the Tobago Cays. If you are short of ice or have run out of bread, he will happily bring some along on his way out.

Canouan Dive Center, run by Andy and Julie, is also happy to rendezvous with yachts in Canouan, the Tobago Cays, Mayreau, and Union Island. Call VHP: 16 (full write up given in Canouan).

One of the easiest dives to find for yourself is just west of Mayreau ~ the wreck of the World War I gunboat, Purina. It is marked on our chart. Tie your dinghy (not yacht) to the buoy.

While you can certainly get some elegant views of large schools of fish framed by pieces of wreckage, this dive does not compare in scenic beauty with the reef dives. As it is only 140 feet long, neither is it a dive where you keep moving along, looking at the view. The beauty of this dive is that you don't move ~ you are already there. This is a dive where you stop rushing around and instead get on more intimate terms with the fish and sea creatures, of which there are a great abundance. Since the fish are very tame, it is ideal for underwater photography.

Surface currents over the wreck can be strong, but down on the wreck it is not usually a problem. I like to start with a slow exploration to see the layout and also get a feel for the kinds of fish that are around. Then I examine each part of the wreck, concentrating on the invertebrates and letting the fish come to me as they will.

Diving outside Horseshoe Reef on either side of the small boat passage is pretty and easily accessible, with dinghy moorings in place. Watch for current, though in this area, it is mostly on the surface. Further north the current can be very strong, and it is more suitable as a drift-dive. Diving is also good for do-it-yourselfers, on the reef outside Petit Tabac, which is within range of a seaworthy dinghy.

Other dives are best done with the dive shop. Diving in some of the cuts among the reefs between Mayreau and the Cays is spectacular. Discovered by Glenroy, this area is called Mayreau Gardens. If you manage to dive one of these in clear visibility, it could turn out to be the dive of your holiday. There is usually a lot of current here, so we are talking drift dives, sometimes so rapid that you surface over a mile from where you went down. You hardly need to fin. The current does all the work while you get wafted through a delightful garden of hard and soft corals, sponges, and fish. My favorite part is on the southern side of the gardens coming out along the southern edge of the reefs. A sloping reef drops to a sand bottom in 40-60 feet. The reef has a wonderful texture made up of all kinds of corals. Boulder, pillar, and plate corals rise in a variety of intricate shapes. Some areas of huge sea fans are so large you can play hide-and-seek behind them. The special luminous quality of the light, typical in the Grenadines, seems to extend below the waves. Massive schools of brown and blue chromis engulf you from time to time, swimming inches from your mask. A few yards away, schools of snapper and jack swim by purposefully, creating a flurry of nervousness in the chromis. Angelfish, trumpetfish, large boxfish, and brightly colored parrotfish are all there as well.

Mayreau

Mayreau is rimmed with pristine beaches and offers spectacular views from up on the hill. Most islanders are happy to see you, and it is well worth exploring on foot. Visit both the village and the windward beaches. A road now runs from Saline to Salt Whistle Bay, and the village now has some more roads.

This beautiful bay has a sweeping half-moon beach, and Salt Whistle Bay Club is tucked away behind it. The resort is so well hidden in the trees that people who sail in the bay often question whether it is really there.

Enter right in the middle of the bay, as there are reefs to the north and south. The northern reef is about 6-feet deep and not usually much of a problem. The southern reef is dangerous; both wind and swells will help drive the inattentive navigator hard onto the coral. Boats often come to grief here, so take care. The holding in the bay is good in sand, if you avoid the weed patches. If there is a northerly swell, anchor bow and stern to cut the roll.

Salt Whistle Bay Club [VHP: 16/68, $B] has a whimsical woodland atmosphere; the dining area is set in the open among the trees, and each table is built of stone, with its own thatched roof. You can be sure of a top quality meal here, with a set 3-course dinner with five choices of fish or meat dishes. Fish and lobster are nearly always on the menu, and popular meat dishes include rack of lamb, pork tenderloin, prime US steaks, and Cornish game hens. Lunch is a la carte, with soups, sandwiches, salads, and local dishes. For a change from the boat, start the day ashore with one of their fullcooked breakfasts.

There is also a little boutique and beach bar. Manager Undine Potter speaks German and English and is nearly always on hand and very helpful.

Just across the low land, there is another beach on the windward side, where shells and driftwood wash ashore. Snorkeling on the reefs and rocks in the bay is fair but sometimes murky. A new road leads up to the village from near the hotel dock.

SALINE BAY

Saline Bay has a lovely, long beach. A large electric-generating plant is on the slope overlooking the bay. It has bright lights that shine over the bay at night, but thankfully you really do not hear it from the anchorage.

As you approach Saline Bay from the north, keep to seaward of the buoy (currently red) that marks the long reef off Grand Col Point. It is placed right on the edge of the reef, so do not cut it too fine. If the buoy is not in place, give this reef a very wide berth, as it extends way further than most people can imagine. (The outer part of the reef is 12°38.25'N, 61°24.14'W.) The large Saline Bay anchorage offers good holding in sand, avoid the weedy areas.

When cruise ships anchor, Saline Bay does a quick imitation of Coney Island. Luckily, the crowds are always gone before nightfall.

Patrick rents a few moorings in the bay.

Negotiate a price before picking one up, and satisfy yourself it is suitable and in good condition. Do not give your garbage to youths! They throw it in the bushes.

Basic supplies (and sometimes fish) are available in several small groceries. A few handicrafts are available in small shops tucked in people's houses. Occasionally a vendor sets up by the roadside.

A few years ago the only businesses ashore were a couple of very basic stores. Now yachting visitors support several Mayreau-owned restaurants and a few handicraft and t-shirt outlets ~ all good for the local economy. The islanders have only recently gotten electricity, and they are making up for years of quiet by the liberal use of large stereos.

The restaurant business began when Dennis from Mayreau was working as a charter skipper and realized the potential of the island for yachts. Dennis's Hideaway [VHP: 68, $B-C] is just a few minutes up the main road and is a grand spot to stop to take in the view and a beer or two. Late afternoon is the best time to meet other yachting folk. Dennis has a great flair with guests and offers tasty local cooking. Dennis's Hideaway also has a modern guesthouse. You will find a bar on the lawn, an upstairs restaurant and bar, and an internet cafe is coming soon.

Almost opposite Dennis is Annie and Alexander's The Combination Cafe, with a delightful rooftop bar. Stop here and enjoy a drink or cup of coffee, and pick up some of their freshly baked bread. They also open for meals from breakfast through dinner, and Alexander was a chef in Saltwhistle Bay for many years.

] & C Bar and Restaurant [VHP: 68/16] is just beyond Dennis's Hideaway, on your left. It has the best view of the harbor. It is owned by Jean and Claude and large enough to take a huge group. Jean and Claude are very friendly, they make a big effort, and their large portions of lobster, fish, and Iambi are excellent value. One person gets a free meal with parties of four or more. They also have a small supermarket and a boutique, and they run a water taxi. During the day, Jean and Claude often sell t-shirts on one of the beaches.

It is hard to meet a more engaging and friendly restaurateur than James Alexander, who has the Island Paradise Restaurant [VHP: 68, $C]. It is well up the hill, with a birdseye view. This is not a place to come if you are in a hurry, as everything is cooked from scratch, but their Creole fish and curried conch are well worth the wait. Best of all, if four or more come up to eat, the captain's meal is free. They have the biggest sound system on the island, and for those who want to groove to some sounds, they can turn it up after dinner. They have a nightly happy-hour from 1800-1900 with half-priced cocktails, and on Fridays, or whenever the demand is great enough, they offer a barbecue with a local string band. They offer free rides up the hill for anyone who does not want to walk.

Robert Lewis "Righteous" is a well-known Rastafarian, and you can groove to Bob Marley and other good sounds and have some good talks with Robert at Righteous & de Youths [VHP: 68, $C]. This is the cool hangout for a mixture of locals and visitors. The restaurant is like an ongoing artform of construction and decoration and is the character spot on the island. Robert is welcoming and friendly, and he also has a small boutique as well as a restaurant.

For an after-dinner game of pool, check out Victor Hazel's Pleasure Cave Bar or Michael Ollivierre's bar.

A walk eastward from Saline Bay along the salt pond will bring you to some long, pristine beaches on the windward side.

If you have any mechanical problems you can try Arthur Roach in the first small house you come to as you climb the hill.

Snorkeling on the reef coming out from Grand Col Point is fair.

WINDWARD ANCHORAGE

There is a pretty good anchorage on the eastern side of Mayreau. It is open to the south and can roll, but is excellent in unusual conditions, when northerly or westerly swells make the western anchorages untenable. Approach from the south in good light and identify the reef that extends eastwards off the southeastern part of Mayreau. Follow this reef in. Be careful of the reefs to the east of the anchorage ~ some are hard to see.

The Tobago Cays

The Tobago Cays are a group of small deserted islands protected from the sea by Horseshoe Reef. The water and reef colors are a kaleidoscope of gold, brown, blue, turquoise, and green. There are small sand beaches and clear water. On cloudless nights, the stars are cast across the sky like wedding confetti thrown in an excessive gesture of bonhomie. Even squalls can be dramatically beautiful as they approach from afar. The anchorage is, however, open to the full force of the ocean winds, which are occasionally strong.

The best approach is between Mayreau and Baleine rocks, staying south of One Fathom Bank. This is helped by black-and-white day markers. Petit Rameau and Petit Bateau look like one island for most of the approach. It is important to avoid cutting corners lest you land on a coral head.

You can anchor just west of Petit Rameau, in the cut between Petit Rameau and Petit Bateau, or to the south of Baradel. There are strong currents in the cut anchorage, so bow and stern anchoring is necessary.

When heading south out of the Cays, it is safest to pass round the lee of Mayreau, though the Cays do have a southern channel (South Exit) that is okay as an exit for the experienced, when the light is good. Avoid using this southern route as an entrance, as it is hard to find, and many charter yachts have gone aground in the attempt.

Tobago Cays is a national park, and currently, debate rages between those who envisage a "Disneylike" park with welcome centers, a dock, buildings, and moorings, and those who love it just as it is. Please help keep the Cays wonderful. Fishing is not allowed, nor are jet or water skis. Use the dinghy moorings; do not anchor your dinghy. Do not give your garbage to youths for a fee ~ despite protestations to the contrary, they have been dumping it on the windward side of Baradel. If you have a beach barbecue, make sure you remove all your debris, including the charcoal. If you use a local to do a barbecue for you, return the next morning to make sure it has been cleaned up properly. The record of these barbecue vendors to date has been poor, with the apres barbecue beach sometimes looking like a tip.

Anchoring your yacht is permitted behind Horseshoe Reef and around the islands in sand only. Adventurous and experienced skippers could sail outside Horseshoe Reef (the approach is easiest from the south exit) and find temporary anchorage in Petit Tabac on sand bottom only. This is strictly eyeball navigation and for calm weather only. Even so, it is small and roily. Yachts should not anchor on the outer reefs such as World's End and Egg Reefs, nor should they anchor among any of the reefs between Petit Rameau and Mayreau, except in the anchorage we show directly east of Mayreau. These areas are ecologically sensitive, and yachts have recently damaged some of them.

The water here is so beautiful you will almost certainly want to jump right in and maybe snorkel to the nearest reef. Be careful! Speeding dinghies and local boats are a real danger to swimmers. Some fly through the crowded anchorage as fast as 20 knots. We hope this will soon be regulated.

Local boat vendors hang out in the Cays during the season selling everything from ice, bread, and lobsters to jewelry. They are a friendly bunch and very obliging if you need them to bring you ice or bread the next day. If you want to be left alone, they will do that also. Sydney, one of them, offers a big stock of t-shirts; ask him to show you some of the Carriacou Fidel productions art t-shirts ~ each one is a painting by a local artist reproduced on a shirt. Another vendor, Mr. Fabulous, sells lobster and offers a water taxi. Avoid those offering barbecue fish lunches ~ they have been taking the fish from the reef.

The snorkeling on Horseshoe Reef is superb, though it can be choppy out there, and in some places you will meet current. If you have beginner snorkelers on board, the east beach on Petit Bateau (facing Baradel) has some snorkeling that starts in calm, shallow water. The dinghy approach through the reefs is tricky. The Tobago Cays are also an excellent place for sailboarding, with miles of fairly protected water and a constant wind. Experts can sail out through the small dinghy passage into the ocean. Keep an eye out for swimmers and snorkelers.

To go scuba diving, contact Grenadines Dive, who will come and collect you from your yacht. Currents can be very strong, and most dives are done as drift dives.

Paim Island [VHP: 16) was for many years an uninhabited island called Prune Island. John and Mary Caldwell fell in love with it, built a small hotel, and planted palm trees. John was a real character, and his early sailing experiences are outlined in his famous book, Desperate Voyage. John had a long and interesting life, which eventually reached its end. Palm Island was bought by the same group that owns the St. James Club in Antigua, who have upgraded it to a first-class resort with many lovely, tall thatched roofs and upgraded rooms.

The anchorage is off the docks, and holding is fair in 15 to 20 feet, with a sand bottom. The anchorage can be roily, so check it out for lunch and if you feel comfortable there, stay overnight.

There is a dock you can use for your dinghy, but you must use a stern anchor to keep it from riding underneath where it could be damaged; you also have to leave plenty of room for local boats to come onto the outer end and south side of the dock.

Palm Island's Casuarina Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in the Windwards; a gorgeous expanse of golden sand lapped by translucent turquoise water ~ the ultimate picture-perfect Grenadine beach. When you step ashore, turn right and you will find a boutique that sells essentials, casual-wear, and souvenirs. The Coco Palm [VHP: 16, $A] beach bar and restaurant is a few steps further on. It is open to the sea and serves both elegant light lunches and heartier dinners. It is pleasant but geared for the well-heeled. When the very charming waitress gave me the bill for two fruit punches, she said, "You probably won't believe this..." True, I could have bought 15 beers in Bequia's New York Bar for the same price, but the surroundings are secluded.

Yachts are welcome to enjoy the beach area around the Coco Palm and the shoreline to the south. You can also climb over the rope close to the dock and walk along Casuarina Beach, if you stay fairly close to the water's edge. (One chain above high water is public.) Please respect the privacy of the hotel rooms and facilities. If you think you might want to stay here someday and want to look around, talk with a security guard; he may be able to arrange a tour.

Union is a great island to visit. It stands out from afar, with its dramatically mountainous outline. Clifton, the main harbor, is protected by a reef that shows off its brilliant kaleidoscopic colors and patterns as you sail in. Anchored out on the reef, the water is a vast expanse of brilliant green-turquoise. Ashore, the main town, Clifton, is full of color and local character, and the Union Islanders have become exceptionally welcoming and friendly. The roads and trails offer the best hiking and biking in the Grenadines.

Clifton is a bustling small port with a cosmopolitan atmosphere and is the center of yachting in the southern Grenadines. It has a thriving day-charter industry, with tourists flying into the small airport daily to tour the Grenadines. Do not anchor close to any of the innocent-looking, empty mooring buoys. Come 1600, the large day-charter boats will return and pick them up regardless.

When approaching Clifton from the north, it is necessary to sail halfway over to Palm Island to avoid Newlands Reef (keep well outside the three red beacons on its outer edge). When approaching from the south, give Grand de Coi a wide berth.

Clifton Harbour is protected by Newlands Reef, and it has a small reef in the center. The main to be nearer to the action, anchor anywhere entrance is just south of this center reef and off the town.

marked by red and green beacons. It is also A coastguard dock and station is in the possible to sail to the east of the center reef southern part of the harbor.

and up behind Newlands Reef toward Green Island. This area off the outer reef offers a Regulations visually great anchorage, but if you prefer Clifton is St. Vincent's southern port of entry for customs clearance. Check with customs in the fishing complex weekdays from 0830-1630; at other times, including Sundays and holidays, you will find them at the airport. Immigration you find at the airport; both they and customs are around as long as the airport is open.

You can surf the net and do phone calls and faxes at the following places: The Internet Cafe at the Anchorage Yacht Club, Erika's Marine Services [VHP: 68], and Modern Promotions. All have good equipment and are helpful. Erika's is agent for DHL. Many sell some computer gear and offer design and other services.

Local youths offer moorings for rent. These often go adrift, with serious consequences, so if you take one check it carefully for yourself. Garbage can be left in the facility on the fishing docks.

The Anchorage Yacht Club [VHP: 68/ 16] has a 12-berth marina where you can tie stern to a floating dock, and they offer water, laundry, ice, mechanical help, card telephone, fax, mail pickup, and showers. The marina office is right on the dock and opens daily from 0730 to 1800 in season, 0800 to 1800 offseason. The Anchorage is an agent for SVG Air. They offer inexpensive electric carriage transport to the airport and for shopping trips to the village.

Jean-Marc's Bougainvilla [VHP: 16] is a marine mall with stern-to berthing for about 20 boats. They sell fuel, water, and ice. Wind and Sea charters have a base here. Air and sea charters are available. Bougainvilla includes shops and restaurants, which we will mention later.

Erika's Marine Services [VHP: 68] is on the waterfront; speak to Heather or Chillie. Their services include: laundry (collect/deliver from your boat), yacht clearance, which particularly appeals to larger charter boats, bike rentals, and an internet station. They are also the DHL agent, rent DVDs, have a good bookswap, sell some computers, electronics, and batteries, and you can ask here about the eco-hiking tours available on the island. They sometimes also make and deliver bread.

You can also come stern-to at Lambi for water or diesel (they will carry drums over). Gasoline is available at Nollie Alexander's Eillon gas station. Clifton Beach Hotel [VHP: 68, $B-C] has about 9-feet at the end of their dock. You can come in here alongside or stern-to to buy ice and get your laundry done. Water is sometimes also available. Ice is available at Anchor-age Yacht Club, Park East, Grand Union, Lambi, and many rum shops.

If you need to fly out, check Joy James at James Travel or Eagle's Travel.

Unitech fills cooking gas bottles.

Unitech has a small chandlery with some mechanical and yacht hardware items. Island Marine Special has some mechanical spares. Lionel Fox at Castello sells good epoxy, fiberglass, and Australian hats. Elodie's lovely ready-made fishing lines are available at Unitech, Little Price, Erika's, and other stores.

If you need something fixed, talk to Laurent at Unitech, a couple of hundred yards from Anchorage on the way to the airport. They repair all kinds of gasoline and diesel motors, including outboards; they weld iron and stainless, and they do fiberglass and electrical repairs. They get new parts from Martinique. Unitech also sells cooking gas and can fill most boat cylinders.

Another mechanical shop, Island Marine Special [VHP: 16], is run by Earl Allen, a good diesel mechanic. If you walk though Bougainvilla to the back street and turn right, it is the workshop just a few hundred feet down the road on your left.

Tooli has a sewing machine and can do emergency sail repairs and other canvas work. You will have to ask for him ~ get directions in Erika's.

Provisioning in Union is good. There is a great market area opposite Little Price where vendors offer a good selection of fresh fruits and vegetables in colorful stalls. Some, like Jenny's, have fridges, where they keep greens like spinach and callaloo, so if you don't see what you need, ask. More is on sale in another market further down the road towards Grenadines Dive.

You will find Robert and Annie-France's Captain Gourmet [VHP: 08] on the main street opposite the Clifton Beach Hotel. Sometimes it is run by their son and daughter-in-law, Nicolas and Linda. This great little store has good buys on French wines. They offer fresh yogurt and French bread daily and sell frozen shrimps, steak, and many other meats, along with cheeses and whipping cream for the charter cook. You will also find coffee and many French dry goods. They also offer a full provisioning service for yachts and will deliver to your dinghy. Robert and Nicolas are pilots, with a small plane that helps them bring in new stock. Annie-France makes delightful jewelry from beads and semi-precious stones. A small display hangs behind the counter, but there is much more out of view, so if you are interested, ask to see the full range. Seats outside also make this a pleasant place for a break; have a coffee and try one of their pizzas.

You will find Little Price [VHP: 16], run by Marie and Francois, opposite the market square, and a dinghy dock outside makes the picking up of provisions easy. They have one of the largest wine selections, along with beer and soft drinks. They are Union's major importer of shrimp, which Francois collects in his boat from South America, and they sell these wholesale and retail. They also offer frozen meat and local fish as well as a French delicatessen and general groceries. They are agents for AT&T phones and cards and are happy to provision for charter yachts.

More small supermarkets will cater to your other shopping needs. Grand Union often has fresh local chicken; also check out Lambi's, which grows every year, and Stephanie's Supermarket, with Eagle Travel. Buy your local bread from Cash 'n Carry, just by the turn to the market. It is freshly baked on the premises and is inexpensive and good. For fancier French bread, croissants, and Danish, check out the Anchorage Hotel, West Indies, Captain Gourmet, and SeaQuarium.

Union is becoming quite the place for boutiques. The Anchorage Boutique has an impressive selection of smart-casual wear, toiletries, books, ornaments and art.

In Bougainvilla, Susie's Okaou Boutique has a vast array of artistic souvenirs, smart-casual wear, fashionable swimwear, local books, maps, and more.

Juliet's Romeo Boutique opens daily from 0800-1830, except Sunday when it is morning only. Juliet stocks casual wear, t-shirts, souvenirs, and decorative items as well as locally made jewelry and metal sculptures. She also has a book swap.

The Grenadines Gift shop is the next block heading south. They have Batik wall hangings, t-shirts, souvenirs, hats, film, and hard-to-find camera batteries. You can also ask about Fedex, as they can put you in touch with Margaret Wilson, who is the agent.

Castello Paradise is unique: a garden bazaar with a distinct feel of the East. It ineludes a grotto, sculptures, quaint architecture, and more. There are several little boutiques that include the work of Jutta Hartmann. Castello Paradise includes at least three bars. The best is the Pelican Bar, up Rocky Birdland hill at the end of the garden, which has a great view of the harbor. You pay a $5 EC entrance to the area, redeemable at the bar.

The Clifton Beach Hotel has a good boutique with a wide range of casual clothing, souvenirs, and books. There are several other small stalls and shops for local handicrafts, and many ladies hang out t-shirts for sale in the fish market buildings. Visions Boutique has lots of music and some DVDs. New boutiques keep opening.

If you are planning to go snorkeling, you can frighten yourself by counting the sharks in the pool in front of the Anchorage Yacht Club. (If it is any comfort, they are only nurse sharks.) After that, you may need a stiff drink and a bite to eat. In recent years, Union Island has become the jump-up center of the Grenadines, and you will find plenty of entertainment and some fine restaurants.

The Anchorage Yacht Club [VHP: 68, $A-B] is smart and pretty, with a delightful view of the harbor, and it is a good place to go if you want to dress up (though you don't have to). They have a dinghy dock and a pleasant bar for relaxing, along with a pool room. Their bakery counter opens at 0700 with fresh coffee and croissants. They also sell sandwiches, snacks, and bread to take away. At lunchtime, they fire up the pizza oven overlooking the shark pool and do a brisk lunch trade. They offer good French, Italian, and Creole cuisine, with a nightly barbecue in season. Happy hour runs from 1730-1830 and some nights in season include live music. They are well known for their large parties at Christmas and on New Year's Eve. Anchorage is an excellent choice if you need a night ashore as they offer special rates for those on yachts. A new addition is the beach bar, which opens when there is enough demand.

The West Indies [$B-C] is on the waterfront by Grenadines Dive, with its own dinghy dock. Joe'lle, the owner, and her assistant, Jean-Jacques, look after their customers very well. The ambiance is casually elegant French, the cooking is French/Creole, and the prices are reasonable. Their fresh lobster is excellent. Save enough room for dessert if possible; chocolate mousse and chocolat liegeois are among the choices. They make their own French bread, which you can also buy to take away, and their panmi sandwiches are wonderful for lunch. Skipper gets his meal free with groups of more than seven. The restaurant moved from its former location at the Bogainvilla and has remained the favorite for many repeat visitors.

SeaQuarium [$B-C] has a perfect location in the Bougainvilla complex, open to the harbor and the breeze with a spectacular saltwater aquarium for decor. This seafood restaurant offers freshly grilled fish and lobster, along with shrimp and conch in various sauces. Manager Bertrand's speciality is the magnificent SeaQuarium special ~ a giant plate that includes half a lobster, marinated conch, smoked fish, suchimi, shimps, sea urchin, and winkles. Chicken, T-bone steak, and pasta dishes are available. SeaQuarium has its own French bakery offering French bread and Pain de compagne, croissants, Danish and pain au chocolat. Buy them to take home or come for breakfast and enjoy them with good French coffee.

Lambert is smiling these days, and why not? His Lambi emporium [VHP: 68, $B-C], consisting of a supermarket and two-story, two-dining room restaurant, is going well. Each time I come, his building seems to have crept farther out to sea, and rental rooms have been added. The conch shell walls give a rough-and-ready atmosphere. The food is local as is the entertainment, with lively steel bands many nights of the week.

The Clifton Beach Hotel [VHP: 68, $B-C], run by Marie Adams-Hazell, has a perfect open waterfront location and its own dinghy dock, which is most convenient for visiting town during the day. The bar is a popular meeting place. After you have finished shopping, try one of their first-rate sandwiches. You can also visit for dinner, and they have occasional jump-ups.

Limelite, right open to the main street, is the place to take a break and watch the world go by and is the last bar to close at night. Its presence here has improved the look of the main street. Snacks should be available soon.

For good and inexpensive local food, visit T&N [$B-D], which is another perfect place to watch life go by. Alternatively, walk down the road and check out Evergreen, by Castello's, or Jennifer's Restaurant and Bar [$C-D] a little further up the road. Both offer West Indian food at a reasonable price. At the airport, Lorna serves very inexpensive local dishes and snacks.

If you are out on the reef, you cannot help but notice Janti's Happy Island [$B-D], built on the edge of the reef. Not many people have created their own island as did Janti. He formerly had a bar in Ashton but could not find enough customers. He also worked for tourism, trying to clean up the town. One headache was a huge pile of conch left by fishermen on the beach. Janti solved both problems by taking the conch from the beach and using them to build Happy Island, a labor of love that turned into a great success. It is perfectly placed for snorkeling by day and for taking a sundowner at night. You can tie your dinghy right outside. This is Union's most informal bar, a great place to go barefoot and meet other cruisers. You can also come here for a simple desert-island barbecue dinner (it is best to give Jante some advanced notice); chicken and fish are popular, but many prefer his lobster-and-champagne specials.

Big Sands [VHP: 16, $B-D] is a hotel about 15 minutes walk from Clifton (you don't have to walk - give them a call and they will send a car for you). It feels miles from Clifton, with a lovely setting right on a big beach, with a good breeze, and sometimes seas rolling in. They have kayaks and beach toys you can use to give you an appetite (bring a change of clothes and use the freshwater shower). It is owned by Freddie and Johanne from Belgium, ably aided by Jasmine. Open every day from breakfast through dinner, the food is good, with very wide-ranging menus. For those wanting time ashore, their rooms are the best, with special yacht rates for short notice.

Union offers great hiking and biking with spectacular views of Union's beautiful turquoise waters that include all of Clifton right over to Ashton and Frigate Island. The road system enables you to bike all over the island. Obvious close viewpoints are Fort Hill, also the road that leads from opposite the hospital back past the pinnacle and into Ashton. Further afield the roads that rise from Richmond Bay to circle round Bloody Bay and Chatham are spectacular, and the road from Ashton to Mt. Cambell offers great views to the south. You can cycle and walk to Frigate Island and hike up the hill. Off-the-road hiking includes the ridge along the western mountain range and, for spectacular views, Mt. Taboi. The pinnacle is one of the hardest and most spectacular, with a dramatic, 360-degree, precipitous view. However, you need to have a good head for heights and must be fit as well as carry a cutlass. A cooperative of trained local guides will be happy to take you. They know a lot about the history, plants, and life on the island, and they have worked out some excellent hikes, some of which include local boat rides. Ask in Erika's.

You will find information on the dive shops and some dive sites under the southern Grenadine diving section. Clifton is the base of Grenadines Dive [VHF: 16/68].

Captain Yannis's day charter boats visit a bunch of islands every day ~ a great way to get a preview of the area before you do it yourself.

CHATHAM BAY

Chatham Bay, on the lee side of Union, is a large protected anchorage. The best spot to anchor is in the northeast corner. (You may have to move if the fishermen are seine netting.) The wind tends to come over the hills in shrieking gusts. There is a long beach to explore and some good snorkeling around the rocks off Rapid Point. The fish life here is particularly rich and attracts all kinds of birds, including pelicans. Paths lead to the northern headland and to the center ridge and from these roads go to Ashton. Hiking anywhere from here offers good views.

During the tourist season an entertaining Union Islander known as Shark Attack does great barbecues on the beach, turning out a local meal of fish and lobster with local vegetables. The setting is delightful.

Frigate Island, although just over a mile from Clifton, is generally quiet and well protected in normal conditions, exceptionally so in strong northeasterlies. You can anchor in the lee of the island, but enter carefully as the bottom shelves quickly. Construction started on a large development, including a 300-berth marina. The company went bankrupt, and the project stopped.

You are within dinghy (or longer walking) reach of Ash ton, one of Union's major towns. Ashton is local and delightful, with lower prices than Clifton. It has a good dock for leaving your dinghy. You will find small restaurants, friendly rum shops, and several small supermarkets. If you are there on a Wednesday night, you can join locals in the barbecue and games at Uncle's.

Walking ashore is pleasant. Those with a head for heights and a firm grip can scramble up towards the top of Frigate for a great view. Otherwise,'until the marina crumbles, you can walk along the walls onto the mainland.

There is good snorkeling on the reef to the windward of Frigate. Be careful of the current.

PSV and Petite Martinique

PSV (Petit St. Vincent) and Petite Martinique lie just a short sail southeast from Union. PSV is part of St. Vincent, and Petite Martinique is part of Grenada.

The main anchorage is shown on the chart (page 308). There is current in the anchorage, and if the wind drops, yachts will swing about. The reef off the dinghy dock extends farther than some think.

PSV [VHP: 16, $A] is one of the Grena-dines' great success stories. Back in the late 50s, Haze Richardson and Doug Terman quit flying for the US Air Force, and with what little money they could beg, borrow, and scrape, they bought an old wooden yacht called Jacinta and set sail for the Caribbean. They chartered, and one of their clients was Willis Nichols, who thought it would be fun to buy a Caribbean island and build a hotel. Haze and Doug were asked to build it and started together, though eventually Doug went his own way and in his life accomplished many things, including writing successful novels. Haze got the hotel finished and tried to find a manager. This proved harder than he thought, and he is still there holding the fort, though now as owner. PSV is a very quiet and exclusive resort where the guests get pampered in secluded stone cottages. Each cottage has a flagpole that is used to summon room service, which soon appears in a mini-moke. The hotel usually keeps full, with rates at over $500 a night for a double cottage in season.

The hotel is set up without extra facilities for visiting yachts. They are happy to accept yachtspeople as dinner guests, but limited space means they can only take three or four groups each day, so book well in advance. The bar is also open, but in times when the hotel is full and the bar is filling up before 1800, they have a guard stop people from landing their dinghies to go to the bar. (Those who have reserved dinner will of course be welcome.)

On shore, you are welcome to walk westwards along the shore and enjoy the beaches. Areas with guest cottages are private and signposted.

The snorkeling on the surrounding reefs is good. Mopion makes an exciting destination for a picnic by dinghy. The northern side of the reef surrounding Pinese makes a fair dive.

Getting tired of all the tourists? Petite Martinique (PM), the last outpost of Grenada, is small and enchantingly authentic. I love to overnight here, take a long walk, and have meal ashore. It is also a great place to take on water and fuel and look for bargains on beer, liquor, and wine. The inhabitants live by boatbuilding, seafaring, and fishing (and, in days of old, smuggling). There are usually several cargo vessels at anchor. The many fancy new houses are recent, but some of the older wooden, pitched-roof houses are photogenic, especially at the eastern end of the island. PM is a lot larger than it looks. If you turn right off the dock, the road winds right round to the south side of the island. It is possible to walk all the way round, but the eastern part is a thorny scramble with no real trail. You will find the people here friendly and welcoming, and the island has a bank, several shops and restaurants. For the adventurous explorer and snorkeler, Fota and Petite Dominique are within range of a seaworthy dinghy.

If you are coming north from Carria-cou, you can clear out and visit PM on your way to Union. Most yachts come over directly from PSV or the Grenadines, and indeed it is these yachts that keep the fuel dock and restaurants alive. While PM is part of Grenada, it is generally accepted that no one is going to sail from PSV to Carriacou to clear in, then sail back to visit PM, so to date, the authorities have not worried about yachts overnighting as part of their Grenadines cruise, and many do. Anchor anywhere off the fuel dock among the other boats. PM can also be visited by seaworthy dinghy from PSV. You can leave your dinghy on the inside western part of the fuel dock.

Odinga's Millennium Connection, a pleasant boutique in Mathew's Shopping Center, has high-speed internet access at reasonable rates. Other computer services include printing. They are normally open till about 1800, but in an emergency you can probably find someone in the adjoining house.

Glenn Clement and Reynold own B & C Fuels [VHP: 16 Golf Sierra], a convenient fuel dock where Dexter will be ready to serve you. Easy approach and fair prices have made this the main refueling station for large power yachts and bareboats in the Grenadines. You can approach the dock into the wind, and it has about 16-18 feet of water alongside. They sell diesel, gasoline, water, and cube ice.

A high-speed ferry calls at Carriacou and Grenada. It leaves PM twice a day at 0530 and 1530, stopping in Carriacou and then going to Grenada. It returns from Grenada at about 0800 and 1730, calling in Carriacou before finishing in PM. It does not run on Wednesdays and only does one trip on Saturdays. However, schedules can change, so ask before you pack your bags. If you are visiting Grenada or Carriacou make sure you have cleared in properly.

E&B hardware is a bit behind the main road, close between Palm Beach and Melodies. Look for the old water catchment, and take the path just to its east. Owner Emrol Logan keeps a good supply of resins, cloths, and a little yacht hardware as well as general hardware and a lot of plumbing bits.

Emrol repairs outboards, so you can bring your broken one here to get it fixed.

The Clement brothers can fix anything. They build boats, weld stainless and aluminum, repair diesel engines, and often help out charter companies with a breakdown in the area.

Mathew's Shopping Center is a great addition to PM. It is worth coming to PM just to replenish your wine, beer, and liquor lockers at Mathew's unbeatable prices. This is also the largest of the local shops, and you can top up on all your groceries. This complex also has Odinga's (Mathew's daughter) Millennium Connection, a great boutique with stacks of clothes, gifts, and souvenirs. You can also check your email (see Communications).

Petite Martinique has a very pleasant restaurant, The Palm Beach [VHP: 16, $B-C]. It is family owned by Peterson, Augustina, and Emmanuel Clement.

Emmanuel is the manager. The setting is perfect ~ a pretty garden shaded by palms right on the beach. They serve fresh seafood from the local fishing fleet, with chicken for those who don't like fish, Iambi, or lobster. The food is first-rate; try the lobster bisque if it is on the menu. If you are anchored in PSV, they offer a free ferry service to and from your yacht, which may be an advantage over using your own dinghy after dark.

Almost next door, Melodies [VHP: 16, 'Tasha P Radio"] is a fancy new guesthouse built right on the beach. It is managed by Reuben Patrice, the local headmaster and also an enthusiast of sailboat racing. They have a bar/restaurant but cook meals to advance order only.

If you keep going down the beach, you will come to Francis and Emma's Seaside View. This beachside supermarket makes loading the dinghy easy. They keep a good stock of basics, and for those looking for a room, they have some sweet little self-contained cottages just behind. You can rent scuba gear here (see Water sports).

There are several other small supermarkets (minimarket would be a better description), rum shops, and snack shops dotted around the island, along the west-running road. Standing Wave [$D] is a local supermarket, rum shop, and restaurant. Further down, M&M is a supermarket. A moving vendor is often around selling fresh fruits and vegetables.

The Seaside View Supermarket has a very professional-looking setup for filling tanks and renting scuba gear. It is mainly for local fishermen, but they are happy to rent to yachts, and if your dinghy is small, ask owner Francis Logan if he can arrange for a local boat to take your group to the dive sites. This is very much less expensive than going with a dive shop. This is not a sports establishment and has none of the safeguards that go with a dive shop, so satisfy yourself that the gear is in good condition and within its scheduled test period.

Carriacou is part of Grenada and if you are coming from another country you must anchor in Hillsborough and clear with the customs facilities at the foot of the jetty before visiting any other port. If you arrive on a holiday, ask a taxi driver to take you to the nearest customs officer. Bring your own crew lists (four copies) or pay for photocopies. You will need to check with customs, port authority, and immigration. Those clearing outside normal office hours (0800-1600 on weekdays) will pay a reasonable overtime fee. Customs cruising permits are $50 EC up to 50 feet; $75 EC 50-60 feet; $100 EC 60-79 feet and $150 over 80 feet. In addition, port charges are $8.10 EC per person except the skipper.

Spearfishing is not allowed to visitors in Grenada waters. You are welcome to scuba dive.

See Grenada. Also, the Carriacou Regatta usually takes place at the end of July. The 2005 event will be the 40th anniversary. For details check: www.carriacouregatta.com

Shops and offices normally open from 0800-1200 and 1300-1600. Saturday is half day and most places are closed by noon. Banks open weekdays 0800-1200, 1300-1500 and on Fridays 0800-1200, 1500-1700.

Card and coin phones may be found all over the island. You buy cards for the phones in post offices and selected shops. For USA, dial 1 plus the number. For other countries, dial Oil-(-country code + number. (If the local area code starts with a 0, leave it off.) For collect and credit card calls, dial 0 + country code + number. When dialing from overseas, the area code is 473 followed by a 7-digit number.

There are inexpensive ($1.50-$6 EC) buses running to most villages. Taxis are plentiful. Linky Taxi (VHP: 16) is a good driver, used to working with the yachts. Sample taxi rates are:

$EC Hillsborough to Tyrrel Bay . 25
Tyrrel Bay to Airport 30
Island tour 160
By the hour 60

Rental cars are available (check our directory). You will need to buy a local license, which costs $30 EC. Drive on the left.

"This is an island with over a hundred rum shops and only one gasoline station." Frances Kay, Carriacou.

Carriacou is the only place where I have frequently seen a pelican sitting on a buoy, with a seagull sitting on the pelican's head, both appearing content in the afternoon sun. Somehow this symbolizes the relaxed, easygoing nature of the island. As a Carriacou man said to me: "People does like it here, we move nice wid dem as we does wid each other ~ no corruptions or hatreds, all is like one."

Carriacou is enchanting, as anyone who takes a taxi ride or hike inland will find. The inhabitants live by farming, fishing, and seafaring and must number among the friendliest in the Caribbean. The last few years have seen the emergence of yacht haul-out facilities and many new restaurants. Carriacou now has the widest and best choice in the lower Grenadines for those wishing to eat out. Just about everywhere in Carriacou is of interest, but Windward should definitely be part of your tour, as should the road running from Windward to the north end of the island. Windward is the traditional center of boat building and it is here you can see the fishing fleet arrive under sail. If you cannot afford a taxi, then take a bus over to Windward and hike. Another destination for a spectacular view is the hospital that sits high on the mountain overlooking the harbor.

Hillsborough has a special charm of its own. A pleasant town built right on a perfect beach. As you walk down the main street you keep catching glimpses of the sea through gaps between the houses. Lunch in Hillsborough is special: most of the restaurants are open to the beach and sea, offering a charming view of seagrapes, sand, and turquoise water. A new tourist office faces the main dock. Pop in for maps and information.

Carriacou is a Carib word meaning "island surrounded by reefs," but do not worry: the approach down the western coast is simple enough. When sailing from the north it is safest to pass to the west of Jack a Dan before heading up into Hillsborough. If you take the trickier route east of Jack a Dan, watch out for the large reef, which is about 4 feet deep about one third of the way between Craigston Point and Jack a Dan. Favor the Jack a Dan side of the channel (but not too close). You can anchor almost anywhere off the town. Hillsborough is a good anchorage except in bad northerly swells, when you would be better off in Tyrrel Bay.

There is a flashing green light on Jack a Dan and a flashing red light on the beacon east of Sandy Island.

Hillsborough is a port of clearance. See details on page 314.

The two good internet stations in Hills-borough are very reasonably priced. Ade's Dream is close to the main dock and has an internet computer room in their office at the back. Digi Soft, a new computer store, is upstairs in the M&.M building just beyond the Callaloo. They have a good set of computers for the internet and also sell disks, CDs, and some hardware. For phone and fax, try Cable and Wireless or Ade's Dream.

Mathew Raymond, Linky Taxi [VHP: 16] is a good and reliable cab driver used to dealing with yachtspeople. You can also arrange a car rental through him.

Supermarkets have proliferated, though you will have to visit the local market for fresh produce, or follow the main road towards Silver Beach and look for the Rasta greengrocer on your left.

Liquor prices are excellent throughout. Check Ade's Dream and Bullen's, which also stock hardware and cosmetics. There is also Unity Supermarket on Church Street. Owner Frankie and his sister Phyllis also own Millie's Guest House and the shop called M&M underneath, which is one of the better general hardware and appliance stores in town.

You can also find banks, travel agents, and many quaint small variety stores, each crammed with its owner's ideas of what sells in Carriacou. If you go round enough of them, you will find a wider selection of products for sale than on many a larger island. Wee Bar owned by Veena, has a wonderful collection of fresh produce, clothing, second hand books, and soft drinks. Quality Services has a large stack of fresh produce, car parts, handicrafts, and clothing.

Bullen's has a pharmacy. Turn right from the dock on the main street (left-hand side), or Low Budget pharmacy is opposite Ade's Dream.

As you come off the dock, look right amid the rum shops for Oz. It is hard to see, but sometimes they fly flags, which helps. Oz is a delightful new boutique owned by Mike, a well know Carriacou musician, Marion, who makes lots of objets d'art including great Carriacou Mermaids, and Magalay, who also does very inventive handicrafts. Everything on sale is locally made and things you buy here are probably unique to this store.

Callaloo by the Sea [$C-D, closed Sunday and all September] is one of Carriacou's best and most popular restaurants. The setting is perfect, right on the beach, with seagrape trees to frame the turquoise sea. Glenna Bullen makes sure that everything ~ from the local soups, seafood, and meat to the homemade bread ~ is cooked to perfection. Drop by for lunch; make reservations for dinner.

New Wave Restaurant is opposite Ade's Dream and part of the same establishment. The dining room hangs out over the beach with the gentle sound of waves brushing the shore. It and serves good and reasonably priced local food. They also do takeout. Upstairs they have a great room for a conference or party; rent it for your own, or ask when their next party is - often on weekends.

Sandisland's [$C-D] dining room is light, airy and open to the sea. Easy chairs tempt one to a relaxing coffee break. The restaurant is open for breakfast and lunch, when they cook a hearty local plate.

Cuthbert Snagg [VHP: 16] is very active in environmental concerns in Carria-cou and owns a couple of power boats that he uses for snorkeling trips and expeditions to some of the offshore islands. He also rents bikes (a great way to see Carriacou), kayaks, and sunfish. A good place to meet him is at Snagg's Place [$C], his bar and restaurant, which is most likely to be open in the evening.

De Seaman's Bar is quite popular with yachtspeople. It is an old-fashioned Carria-cou rum shop and general store. Bill Patterson, the owner, is a JP and well worth knowing. The outside sitting area, on a balcony overlooking the beach, is pleasant and Bill serves good local food, including Iambi.

Heart of Town, on the main street, offers tasty local lunches.

While here you should visit at least one of the local rum shops, and you can be sure of a good welcome at the Victoria Bar on Church Street. Owner Vincent spent 16 years in Huddersfield in England and enjoys overseas customers.

The Garden looks interesting and was about to open. It is on the road just past Silver Beach Dive Shop.

Further along is John's Unique Resort [$D], almost opposite Silver Beach Resort. They have a restaurant that is open all day, every day, and they rent rooms and apartments at unbeatable prices.

Silver Beach Hotel has a charming open restaurant on the beach, specializing in seafood. Happy hour is 1700-1900. Their boutique stocks casual clothing, souvenirs, and essential sun blocks. Should you want a night ashore they have special rates for those on yachts.

The Green Roof [$B-C] lies about half a mile north of town on the coast. You can get there by a rather treacherous path along the cliff at the end of the beach to the north of Silver Beach Hotel, or take the longer walk by road. This Swedish establishment is owned and run by Asa and Jonas. It has a great view and a bar that is open all day serving fresh fruit juice and good cappuccino coffee along with regular drinks. They open for dinner (reservations advisable).

The museum is worth the short walk and is open Monday through Friday 0900-1545. It has an eclectic collection, from Arawak pottery to the first telephone exchange.

Should you happen to arrive towards the end of July or earlyAugust, you may witness the famous Carriacou Regatta. It is no secret that the best trading and sailing sloops in the islands are built right here in Carriacou. Once a year they get together to race on this festive weekend. What amazes me is not just their tradition of boatbuilding, which is all done by eye on the beach, but the way they have managed to refine and speed up their designs so that now they can keep up with modern yachts to windward. The boats they build today are unbelievably fast and sweet, and if you are lucky enough to see one sailing into harbor, it is a joy to behold.

Diving is very good, with excellent visibility most of the time. For those going on their own, the dive off the reef at the eastern end of Sandy Island is easy and used to be quite delightful, with a coral slope full of angelfish, spadefish, and many other reef creatures. However, it took a beating by Hurricane Lenny and may take a while to recover. Those with a large dinghy can try the west side of Mabouya, or the Sisters off Tyrrel Bay, or the windward side of Jack a Dan, but keep an eye on the current. For other dives, go with one of the dive shops; they know all the best sites. There are also superb dives off Round Island and Kick em Jenny. Here the fish life is outstanding, with sharks, rays, and big pelagic fish. There are 200-foot walls, caves, and many reefs. Since it is a long trip, it is done as a two-tank dive in fair weather only.

Carriacou Silver Diving [VHP: 16] is efficiently run by Max and Claudia, from Germany, who are PADI master instructors. Their dive center is a 5-star IDC center where instructors can be trained, making this one of the highest qualified dive shops in the Windwards. They have been in Carriacou since 1993, are very professional in their approach to diving, and get lots of return customers. They will be happy to arrange to collect you from your yacht in Sandy Island, Tyrrel Bay, or most Carriacou anchorages. They will open a shop in Tyrrel Bay in the near future.

Sandy Island is nothing but a flawless strip of sand, surrounded by perfect snorkeling and diving reefs. Pelicans and seagulls will be your neighbors in this wonderful daytime anchorage, which is okay for overnighting in settled conditions.

Sandy Island has changed rapidly in recent times. A coral capping has been thrown up on the northern reef and much sand has washed away, threatening the few remaining trees. Be v -y respectful of all beach plants and vegetation: they may be the only things holding the island together. There does seem to be some hope of recovery in the eastern part of the island that has reef protection.

You can carry 7 feet quite close to the middle of the island, but watch out for the reefs north and south. There is also one dark spot toward the western end of the anchorage that is made up of dead coral. It is a little under 6 feet deep and seems to be getting shallower. There is not much room to drag in Sandy Island, so make sure you are well anchored, preferably with two anchors.

L'Esterre Bay has the long and beautiful Paradise Beach and is right opposite Sandy Island, within dinghy reach.

Joe from Carriacou and Elin from Germany have taken over the Paradise Inn [$D, VHP: 16] on Paradise Beach. This delightful Inn has a spectacular beach location and their new and inexpensive restaurant should be a big draw. The restaurant opens daily from 0730 to after dinner. Lunches are simple; pizza, local fish plate, fish, or chicken and chips. Dinner can be light sandwiches and local dishes, but sometimes they draw in outside expertise and get inventive with lobster paella, grav-tuna (really delicious), Chinese suchi, and Trinidad roti. They serve fresh local juices and have the daytime Banana Joe's beach bar. You can check out your email while you are here and if you want a family visit, you will love the room rates (they also have a local house to rent). Dinghy over from Sandy or you can call on the VHP for Joe's water taxi. For dinner guests it would be about $15 EC per person each way from Tyrrel Bay, less for Sandy. You can also bus it over for next to nothing, or hike; about half an hour from Tyrrel Bay.

L'Esterre is also the home of Sandra's Fidel Productions. At the retail level they have a great little store in an old container at the east end of the beach, with lots of t-shirts and locally made artistic handicrafts. Their main business is Caribbean art shirts ~ putting local art on t-shirts. These good quality reproductions from many local artists are either sold through their website fidelproductions.com or in shops up and down the islands; Noah's Arcade in Bequia, Treasure in Mustique, Romeo Boutique in Union, and Imagine in Grenada all carry them. Vendor Sydney will even bring them out o you in the Tobago Cays. For t-shirt aficionados ~ at last something different.

Tyrrel Bay is vast and peaceful. Occasional sounds drift out: a bleating goat, a far-away shout, the thump of dominoes, and closer by: "Hey, Skip, how about some oysters?" These salespeople refer to the local delicately flavored "mangrove oyster." Make sure opening them is included in the price. If you have run out of limes for your oysters, they can also supply you with these. You may be offered jewelry and calypso music as well. John Bedeau has been at it the longest. He once harbored ambitions to make adventurous cruises. He owned a 100-year-old Carriacou sloop on which he set out on great voyages for adventure and profit. John has a slow and thoughtful manner that does not always keep him out of trouble. He has single-handed to Bequia, and he once cornered the banana market and spent days frantically trying to sell a huge heap of bananas before they went ripe. John can sometimes supply lobsters. Another vendor of long standing is Simon, who usually has wines and beer at a good price. Simon also likes to work on yachts.

Businesses line the waterfront. A road separates them from the sea. The shore used to be thickly wooded with manchineel and seagrapes. Most of these were cut down to increase the visibility between the boats and the businesses. When Hurricane Lenny threw record breaking swells into the bay, it devastated the unprotected shoreline and destroyed much of the road, turning several properties into beachfront real estate. The government then built the big seawall that now lines the waterfront.

(See also chart page 327.)

Tyrrel Bay is deep and well protected, wide, and easy to enter. Despite this, a surprising number of people manage to run aground. The buoys are rather confusing. Whatever the original color, they end up Pelican guano white on top and rusty underneath. Buoys may be added or removed at any time without notice. There is a reef in the northern part of the bay, towards the center. A channel to the north of this reef is marked by three buoys. However, the reef that is most often hit is along the southern shore. There is a small cul-de-sac in this reef, called Bareboat Alley and people manage to go right up in here and run hard aground. Two large unlit mooring buoys lie in the middle of the southern channel. One or both sink from time to time. The easiest way to enter is in the southern half of the bay about one-third of the way across. You are not in danger of hitting the northern reef until you are over halfway across the bay. Be sure to give the southern shore good clearance: this is where most people come to grief. You can pass closely on either side of the big mooring buoys safely, though keep in mind that buoys should not be relied upon. It should be noted that there is a wreck in the bay at 12° 27.47'N, 61° 29.27'W that is just south of the southern part of the center reef. This wreck is 8 feet deep and so not a hazard to navigation for most yachts. However, you would not want to anchor on it. Holding is good if you can find clear sand, and rather poor in the weedy areas.

If you are approaching the slip or yacht club, take a good swing to the east before approaching. Do not cut the reef fine.

Natasha owns Computer Classified in the Alexis Apartment block. It opens Monday to Saturday 0900-1800 with a bank of computers and a copy machine. Natasha creates business cards and does desktop publishing and plans a fax machine and computer phone hook up. You can also get on line at the Carriacou Yacht Club, Turtle Dove, or Arawak Dive shop.

Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haul Out [VHP: 16] is an excellent small boatyard and marina owned by the Alexis family and Jerry Stewart and managed by Roy. You can come to the dock or the outside of the eastern travel lift dock to take on water. They also have convenient docking with space for about seven yachts, both on the finger dock and outside of the travelift dock.

Yachts are hauled on a 50-ton marine Travel Lift ~ up to 18-foot beam and 8-foot draft. It is one of the more environmentally friendly yards with a wash-down catchment so that none of the toxic paints go into the sea. They can take about 17 boats.

Normal opening hours are 0800-1600 Monday to Friday and 0800-1200 on Saturdays. They have a 24-hour marine emergency service for yachts that go aground or start to sink. Contact them first if you run hard aground and need a hand, as their prices are fair.

This yard is excellent for general work and anything you can do yourself. It is absolutely first-rate for mechanical services, welding, and fabricating thanks to Dominique and Uwe (see below). For environmental reasons, they are not currently spraying boats, sandblasting, or encouraging major fiberglass repairs as they lack an enclosed area to contain the fumes and dust.

The slipway facilities are vastly enhanced by the adjoining Carriacou Yacht Club. Owners Earl and Trevor Stanislaus listen to their customers and keep getting better. The main lounge building is comfortable, with a book swap, bar, and restaurant. They have telephone, fax and internet service, laundry, showers, and toilets. The dinghy dock is convenient and their mini mart stocks wines, liquors, and foods, including those that have been requested by yachts, and they sell mini block ice. They have a card phone that works, and rooms or cottages that are available at excellent rates for a night ashore. While you visit, check out their new boutique.

You can arrange diesel fuel (duty free if you have cleared out) by the big storage tanks at the head of the main dock. It is piped down the dock. Enquire at Bullen's supermarket in town.

The McQuilkins, a Carriacou family, are building a large marina/haulout/shop-ping and condominium complex on the far side of the main dock. This, the largest development in Tyrrel Bay, should come on line over the life of this guide. The haulout and docks should be finished about the time this book comes out.

Dominique [VHF: 16], at Carriacou Aluminum Boats, does wonders in aluminum, from building a new dinghy to fixing a broken mast. He also welds and polishes stainless steel. Biminis are one of his specialties. His wife Genevieve sews sails and offers therapeutic massage for bad backs and sore necks. You will find him on his trimaraft-workshop, not far from the boatyard.

Uwe, at Tool Meister, runs an excellent machine and mechanics shop. People come here from all over the Grenadines to get their problems solved and much of his work is with cargo ships. He will completely rebuild your old engine or help you buy a new one and install it properly. He can fix just about anything that is broken and machine new parts if they are unavailable. Uwe is so busy that he has a closed sign permanently posted on his door just above the Turtle Dove bar, but if you go and find him, he will probably try to help.

In Stitches is a new canvas and sail repair shop run by Andy, helped by Petra and the team. Andy lives on his yacht Yellow Bird, so you can call him on VHF: 16. The shop is ashore and they are very helpful with all kinds of canvas work, upholstery, sail work (they offer new sails with the Quantum label), bimini tops, and they make very decorative custom flags.

Cleandro is down the road leading back from the Old Rum Shop where he lives with his wife Mavis. Cleandro is a good welder, a general and marine mechanic. He welds all types of metal and fixes any kind of engine, including outboards. You will recognize his house by the engines outside.

Linky Taxi [VHP: 16] is helpful, friendly, and has a good-sized minibus for island tours, shopping trips, or anything else you need. Bubbles, at the Turtle Dove [VHP: 16], has a smaller five-seat pickup truck for smaller groups. Both Barba and Alexis have fleets of fine self-drive rental cars and are happy to rent to yachtspeople.

For mountain bikes, speak to Rosi at Angels Rest.

There are several little supermarkets that stock a supply of liquor and beer, along with bread, canned and packaged food, eggs, and chicken. Some also have electronic goods and household supplies. If you don't see what you want, it is worth asking. The Carriacou Yacht Club store is good for liquor and basics. Twilight Supermarket [VHP: 16] is run by La Qua and Diana Augustin. They sometimes have block ice on hand and, if not, you can get them to order you a block for the next morning. Alexis Supermarket is run by the Alexis family, who own a fleet of boats, including some of the ferries that run to Grenada. The newest supermarket is After Ours¹, which sometimes has whipping cream and other goodies not found in the others.

For fun shopping, check out the boutique in the Yacht Club, Computer Classified, and Barba's upstairs boutique, which is an economical place to replace the hat that blew over the side.

The Carriacou Yacht Club has its own fine restaurant (closed Sundays) called Saraca. It is upstairs, with a balcony and outside alcove looking right out over the anchorage. They open from breakfast (0830) to dinner and offer a good choice of dishes, each cooked with all fresh ingredients seasoned with local spices and herbs. Their local seafood, including fish and Iambi, is excellent. Saraca is the name of a traditional Carriacou cook-up where everyone would join in and cook different foods. Saraca does Saraca on two days notice for parties of four or more. This is really reasonable and you can sample Creole fish, curried Iambi, coucou, rice, and plantain, along with a variety of starters and desserts. Call or check their menu for details.

Lambi Queen [VHP: 16, $C-D] is a cute restaurant with a patio railing made from old barrel planks with curved surfaces. It is owned by the Sylvester family. Edwin goes out fishing and his son Sherwin cooks up the catch in good Carriacou home-style. The main ingredients are fresh fish, lobster, Iambi, and chicken. You can choose your own lobster out of the holding tank off the beach. They have a nightly happy hour from 1730-1830. They own a modern 35-foot cabin cruiser for fishing trips and day charters, and they have a water taxi service.

Associated with Lambi Queen is a big raft out in the bay with Angels Rest painted on the side. Depending on how many people and cases of beer there are on board, it sometimes has an interesting list to the stern (or maybe it is the bow ~ I am not sure I can tell which is which). Anyway, this is the sunset hangout where you are likely to meet other cruisers and locals. Rosi often tends the bar.

The Twilight Restaurant and Bar [VHP: 16] has a pleasant intimate atmosphere; the walls are brightly decorated with paintings, many from local artist Canute Caliste. Owner and chef Diana Augustin cooks spicy West Indian Creole dishes with fresh fish, lobster and Iambi, local chicken, and pork. Happy hour is 18004900.

Next door, The Old Rum Shop, run by Alcina and Tibo, is a great hangout where you can meet locals and play dominos, and, with a little notice, get a good local meal.

The Conch Shell [$C-D] is just down the street that leads back from Scrapers. This is a great place to bring a group to enjoy chef Leanora Pia's original Carriacou family recipes. Seafood predominates on the menu that includes fish, shrimp, lobster, Iambi, and chicken. All are beautifully prepared, with light and delicious flavors. Prices are very reasonable.

After Ours' have built a handsome new restaurant/night club/conference center/ stage. They have occasional music, discos, live bands, and other entertainment.

Joann's Beach Bar is cheerfully painted and Joann will welcome you. Her bar opens at 0800 and runs until late. She also sells snacks like fish 'n chips and occasionally does a fish broth. The nightly happy hours are from 1630-1930. They have a computer to check your email.

Turtle Dove [VHP: 16, $C] is on the waterfront with a dinghy dock, though you will need a stern anchor. It is run by two Italian women: Luciana, who cooks excellent Italian pizza and other specials, while Daniela welcomes you and runs the bar. This is the place for really good coffee and lobster pizza. They create an informal, entertaining atmosphere.

The Mighty Scraper, onetime calypso king of Carriacou, is one of Tyrrel Bay's most ambitious businessmen with his big Scraper's Restaurant, boutique, Rum Punch Bar, and apartments [VHP: 16, $C].

There are several other inexpensive local hangouts. Liz's Place [$D] is friendly and you can get good local food at bargain basement prices. Right across from the main dock, Bek's Bar has a TV and does great local lunches for the work crew on the new marina. The Mighty Runaway, a jovial Calypsonian and policeman has opened a local bar just above Tool Meister called Runaway's Hideaway.

Just a pleasant 20-minute walk away lies the Cassada Bay Resort. The view south over a carpet of blue-green sea is decorated by swirls of turquoise and brown reef from which several knobby islands rise. On a clear day Grenada looms in the distance. The view makes it one of the more enchanting places to visit. However, I cannot tell you what kind of service or food you will meet. Every year it seems to change.

The mangrove swamp in Tyrrel Bay is protected by the fisheries department and well worth a visit by dinghy. Switch off the engine and listen to the peace (take insect repellent). Yachts are not allowed in except during times of a hurricane warning. Dinghies must go at less than 4 knots, and taking oysters without a license is forbidden.

Cycling is great way to see Carriacou ~ especially off the road where cars won't go. Wild Track Cycles is run by Rosi from Angels Rest. Her house is the first one up the hill behind the haul out. Her bikes are good quality mountain bikes, well up to the Carriacou tracks.

There are plenty of hiking possibilities, including a walk up Chapeau Carre.

There is plenty of good diving. Right off The Sisters is an excellent dive where you find a sloping reef of soft and hard corals decorated with many sponges. Lots offish gather here. You are bound to see angelfish, and stingrays, and turtles are likely. You can choose between two good dive shops in Tyrrel Bay. Both will take you down to Isle de Ronde where the diving is spectacular when it is calm, usually in the summer, and both will fill tanks. Georg Schmitt and Connie Hagen own Arawak Divers [VHP: 16], the original dive shop in Tyrrel Bay. Georg has lived in Carriacou since 1994 and does both commercial and pleasure diving. Connie is also a PADI instructor. Both Connie and Georg are originally from Germany. Their shop is based in the After Ours' building and they are happy to pick customers up off their yachts in Tyrrel Bay or Sandy Island. Just call them on VHP 16. They also do private dives, and can have someone scrub your hull. They have two dive boats; the largest is a 32-footer for the distant sites.

Lumbadive [VHP: 16] is based at the Turtle Dove. It is a Beachat dive center and they can service all Beachat equipment. It is owned by J.P. a Jamaican by birth with a French father, and his partner Severine who is French. J.P., is young and enthusiastic, a Padi instructor who for the last 12 years has dived all over the world. Lumbadive does regular trips to Isle de Ronde and plan to put a bimini on their open 24-foot dive boat.

You can also call Carriacou Silver Diving on the VHP [Ch: 16] (see earlier Water sports sections).

Unfortunately, none of the islands between Carriacou and Grenada affords good shelter. Isle de Ronde can be used in a pinch. The anchorage is in the bay on the northern side of the west coast, but it is likely to be roily, even for lunch. This is a shame, as the snorkeling is excellent and the island has some good walks. Only about 20 inhabitants live on the south coast.

It is impossible to anchor at either Kick 'em Jenny or the Sisters, but both are interesting and may be approached reasonably closely, weather permitting. Both have large nesting bird populations and you can see boobies and pelicans, particularly on the Sisters. Beware of the strong currents.

An active volcano, that lies about two miles west of Isle de Ronde, erupted in both 1988 and 1989. It, also, has been named Kick 'em Jenny, and you certainly will get a big kick if you happen to be on top when it erupts. To prevent this, the Grenada government has declared a 1.5-km exclusion zone around the volcano at all times (not enforced; it is for your own safety). The exclusion zone increases to 5 km when the volcano is rumbling (For the current status of the volcano, check www.uwiseismic.com or follow the links on www.doyleguides.com.)

Kick 'em Jenny (the big rock) has the reputation of kicking up a nasty sea as you go north and this is particularly true if the tide is running east.

When sailing from Grenada to Carriacou, the fastest way to go is to hug Grenada's lee coast right to the north before heading to Carriacou. Unless the wind is well in the south, take a tack into Sauteurs, as the west going current is weakest close to the Grenada coast. This will not only get you up faster, but it should keep you outside the 1.5km volcano exclusion zone.

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