Аренда яхт: парусные и моторные яхты. Продажа яхт

If you are mooring to a short pontoon it might be necessary to rig the stern line through a genoa fairlead like this. By quickly 'taking a turn' this line can also be used as a brake if there is a tail wind.

Once lines and fenders are prepared the shore crew should stand by the shrouds with a coiled] mooring line in one hand. Hold on with the other hand and step over the guardrail and stand outboard. Don't be too eager to leap ashore, as the skipper might decide to go around again if he's not happy with his first approach.

When given the order, step ashore and make fast the stern line followed by the bowline. If there is a bollard simply drop an eye over it otherwise make fast to a cleat or ring as pages 33-34. With a large crew, the slack will be taken up into the boat and secured. But, if you're short handed the shore crew must 'take a turn' and secure the shore line temporarily.

The skipper will tell you which side to rig fenders and lines (see pages 32-33) and what you'll be mooring to Fenders high for 'boat to boat" fenders low for "boat to pontoon". But always arrange them around the widest part of the boat, and tie them on be/ore you put them over the side. They can then be adjusted for height. In strong winds, when the noise can drown spoken orders, always LOOK at the skipper for the signal to step ashore.


		*ALWAYS LEAD LINES THRU' FAIRLEAOS & UNDER* RAILS**

BOW (A) and STERN LINES (B) are needed to hold her in place, while BOW (C) and STERN SPRINGS (D) stop her sawing back and forth. (E) and (F) are BREAST ROPES. (These can sometimes be left off). Guard against chafe where the lines cross hard edges (G) and rig the stern line to an outboard quarter if there is any current, (H) as this will help to hold her off the wall.

After asking permission to lie alongside, another set of SPRINGS, BREAST ROPES AND BOW AND STERN LINES are rigged. Here, the breast ropes and tight springs are more important, to hold the 'raft' together. An amidship cleat (I) and sheet winch (J) have been used in this case to avoid overloading the bow and stern cleats.

A round turn and two half hitches (A) is a good knot to use for mooring lines as it can be released under load.

A howlini' (B) tied like this can rub back and forth on the ring and chafe through.

A round turn together with a bowline (C) is kinder on the rope.

Try to avoid cleating one rope on top of another, as each line cannot be released separately. Likewise, if eyes are threaded through each other, they can be released in any order.

Mooring lines at least 3 times the expected rise in tide are needed. Also, care must be taken that a rising mooring line (A) will not dislodge a fender. Sometimes, fender boards (B) are needed to span the piles on a quayside.

Never let the lines trail in the water as they might foul the propeller.

Always let the short end slip.

The skipper may ask for the shore lines to be rigged as SLIPS. This simply means a loop of line passes around a bollard or ring and back to the boat. This makes casting off a lot easier as one end of the line is released and the remainder pulled on board.

(A) When there will be no load on the slip it can be rigged from the cleat, round the bollard and back to the crew's hand above the rail. But, the skipper may want to power againt the slip to push the boat out. In that case the line must come back onboard through a fairlead and a turn be taken around a cleat (B). Also, an extra fender (C) needs to be placed at the bow or stern to cushion the turning boat.

Normally, a boat will leave an inside berth in a raft down tide so the current will push the boats together again. An extra long line (A) is rigged behind her and outside of everything to help pull the pack together again. All her mooring lines and shorelines are cast off leaving her breast ropes made up as slips. Once she's clear (A) is tensioned up and all the shorelines re-rigged.

Usually there are many willing helpers to ease the boat out. But, this can be a mixed blessing as their concentrated weight on one side can heel the boat and foul the rigging (A). Also, make sure the extra line does not foul the danbuoy (B) or stowed outboard (C) and be sure all your lines have been released (D). Fenders also have the nasty habit of becoming entangled at awkward moments!

Mooring buoys usually have a ring (A) to make fast to or some form of 'pick-up buoy'. The pick-up buoy can either be attached to the chain strop on the large buoy (B) or to a ground chain (C) with an eye in it.


To help the helmsman judge direction and distance point the boathook like a spear.	Grab the pick-up buoy and bring it in under the rail. Haul in the line until you reach the chain strop and drop the eye over a cleat.

Round turn and two half hitches	Round turn and a bowline	Chain

To attach a line; one crew member hooks the buoy with a boathook (A) while another lies down and passes a line through the ring (B). The line is then handed up to the first person who takes it forward (C). A 'snap-on' boat hook (D) makes the job easier. The boat can be attached by (E) or (F) (gets the knot nearer the boat) or (G) if it's going to be rough. If the load on a boathook becomes too great LET IT GO, otherwise you could overbalance and fall in!

A. Understand how the length of chain is marked, so the correct amount can be flaked down on deck.

D. A buoyed line (tripping line) is used to free the anchor if it gets fouled.The skipper will tell you if he needs it.

The anchor chain (cable) should be lowered hand over hand under control but if it does start snaking out (E) STAND WELL CLEAR! If asked to 'SNUB' the cable by taking a turn -KEEP YOUR HANDS WELL BACK FROM THE CLEAT (F).

The idea is to let the anchor go when the boat is going backwards so the chain is laid along the seabed rather than in a heap on top of the anchor. Cleat the cable and give a touch of reverse power to 'set' (dig-in) the anchor. Likewise, a touch of ahead power might be given to help the crew haul in the anchor. If cleated when 'straight up' the boat's momentum will break out a difficult anchor.