Yachts' tenders
(dinghies) come
in all shapes and sizes and by learning to control them properly you'll add to
your enjoyment allo.it But used incorrectly they can be very dangerous.
THIS IS
AN EXAMPLE OF WHAT YOU SHOULD NOT DO!
Make several trips,
rather than
overloading the dinghy, as a passing wash could swamp you. Don't stand up and
always place stores on the deck before trying to leave the dinghy. The
dinghy is more stable if secured by the painter (bow rope) rather than just
holding on. And, never leave metal rowlocks in when alongside a yacht as they
will scratch her hull. Also, try not to let your fingers be squashed between the
two boats!
ROWING A
dinghy will row easier if she's not overloaded and the weight distributed
so she's trimmed level.
OUTBOARD
MOTORS Again, the boat will go
better and be more seaworthy if you trim her level. This might mean using an
extension on the outboard's tiller and sitting further forward. The boat on the
left is dangerous as the wind could flip her over.
USING A DINGHY AT NIGHT
This can be very pleasurable
or extremely
dangerous. Always wear some form of buoyancy, and take the oars as well
as the outboard. Take a torch, to warm others you're there and to
find your own boat again!
ROWING ACROSS A CURRENT
(A) When rowing out
to a yacht you must allow for any tidal stream so, aim well up stream and
gradually 'crab' across the current.
(B)
Unship the inboard oar (and rowlock) and let the tide ease you back.
(C)
When leaving the yacht to go ashore keep the bows facing up into the
stream otherwise you'll be swept way downstream.
(D)
Unship the inboard oar and 'push' the other one to spin you in alongside.
Make fast smartly.
OUTBOARD SAFETY
NEVER,
EVER TRY TO START AN OUTBOARD WHEN STANDING IN THE . WATER
NEXT TO IT.
When it fires it can jump forward
and
slice into your legs! Row the boat off a good distance from the beach
and start the engine when you are safely inside. Mso, beware of the
trailing painter fouling the propeller.
ALWAYS CUT
THE ENGINE AND TIP IT UP WHEN APPROACHING A BEACH.
This will save the propeller from
damaging itself by churning up the sand. Also, don't let inflatables run
up onto a stony beach. Stop in the shallows and unload her there. This
will avoid tearing the bottom and the need to use the repair kit and
pump you should be carrying.
SAFETY
Moving
around the boat safely means always:
(A) Using the windward (uphill)
side so, if you fall, you'll full inboard. It will also keep you away
from the sails and let you brace your feet against the cabin sides.
(B) Keeping your body
weight low if it's choppy and crawling if it's really rough.
(C) Holding on to
something secure and remembering 'It's one hand for you and one hand
for the boat!'
BE AWARE OF WHAT'S HAPPENING
AROUND YOU
Accidental gybes have killed people and
flogging
sails have damaged eyes.
'Fishooks' on wire
rope can cut
fingers and NEVER put a rope around your hand.
Think where you're
putting your
feet and try to wear shoes to protect your toes. Ropes and wet sails can make
you slip and open hatches can be forgotten about!
WET WEATHER GEAR
A good set of oilies and boots is an
expensive
investment, but they should last for years. Sailing schools will lend or hire
you a set but if you decide to buy, here are some things to look
for:-
Well fitted hood
that turns with your head but leaves room for a warm hat
Toggle hood adjusters save tying a string
across your face
Large collar with flaps and a neck towel
to keep out the drips
Hand warmer pockets
Adjustable cuffs
Chest high trousers give added protection
Watertight fly
Tough patche
Reflective tape (so
you can be seen at night).
Built in buoyancy or add-on life jacket
are good features
Integral harness
Bright colour
Waterproof gloves
Some thin materials can leak it sat on
for hours on end in the wet
Make sure you can get enough warm clothes
under the suit.
Adjustable trouser bottoms
Deck boots with non-slip soles that are
large enough for warm socks to be worn.
SAFETY HARNESS
Each crew member should be
supplied with a safety harness that can be adjusted to a reasonably
tight fit.
Once adjusted it can be easily put on
when needed.
ALWAYS WEAR A HARNESS IF
YOU FEEL UNSAFE OR WHEN THE SKIPPER TELLS YOU TO DO SO.
Don't be influenced by
what other crew members are doing.
There are various types of
spring clips but make sure yours works and is clipped onto something
strong.
The lifeline can be
clipped on to any suitable fitting that is securely bolted to the deck. If it is
too large, clip it back on itself but try to avoid fittings on the edge of the
boat like stanchions and lifelines. The idea is to clip on uphill so if
you fall, you fall into the boat and in heavy weather ALWAYS clip on
before leaving the cabin or cockpit.
LIFEJACKETS
Each crew member
must have a life jacket and know how to use it. They vary slightly in design,
but basically go over the head and are held on with straps that are buckled or
tied at the sides. Some inflate automatically but most have to be blowm up by
mouth.
IN THE
WATER
By adopting this position
in the water the body loses less heat and the hands keep the spray out
of the nose and mouth.
OTHER FORMS
OF BUOYANCY
Buoyancy aids (A)
are floating waistcoats normally worn by dinghy sailors.
Float coats (B)
are jackets with some form of buoyancy built into them.
Both are comfortable to wear but neither
one is as good as a lifejacket in an emergency.
Man overboard equipment needs to be used fast, as
a boat travelling at only 3 knots will be 50 feet away in 10 seconds!
So, get this lot over the side, shout 'MAN
OVERBOARD',
AND DON'T TAKE
YOUR EYES OFF HIM
The skipper will take control and bring
the boat back to the casualty. Carry out his orders as fast as you can
without endangering your own life. A wet adult is extremely heavy so
once he's secured alongside some form of crane might have to be
constructed to get him onboard again.
THE BEST THING IS TO MAKE
SURE IT NEVER HAPPENS TO YOU]
